wolverine

If you are referring to my posts, unfortunately scotty's dyno chart pic didn't come with the relevant quote but it is worth going back and having a look at how much more average power the stocker made under 6000rpm. Assuming the turbo has reasonable lifespan and doesn't shit itself that looks a pretty outstanding result for everyday use. As usual a dyno doesn't really tell you how it will feel on the road as there are other variables. The RB25 powered stageas (manuals) are a much better drive with 400-450 hp turbos compared to going up to 500-550hp turbos due to their weight for day to day driving IMO. An R33 lugging less weight around isn't hampered anywhere near as much. Autos change the game, if you make enough power who cares if you lose a bit to the converter.

It crosses at 5100rpm. The average (usable) power is so much better. No question what would be a better drive with a manual.

Roughly speaking the 52trim 76mm compressor is about 475hp vs 56trim 76mm comp being 500hp. Like I said it is a bit of an each way bet between the GT3071 and GT3076 (both usually come as 56trim versions respectively).

I would get one made locally.

So much more power where you can use it on a day to day basis.

The dipper is an issue but who wouldn't like to see money spent getting it up to scratch. Who wouldn't want to drive there with big elevation changes and the odd street circuit like wall on the uphill sections to keep you honest.

x2

If you don't want to cram boost into it then surely the 0.82 housing is the go. To make an each bet, order the 52 trim comp GT3076. GCG have them. (edit: Ash's comparison to a GT3040 is valid as we are talking the same turbine and housing with a bigger compressor so anything smaller like a 71mm or 76mm comp will be even better)

There are manual S2 stageas, ie the RS4S as well as auto models. The R34 GT-t PowerFC works fine on the RS4S with the exception of the traction control which is not present on the S2 stagea AWD models.

Atmo BOV by any chance? A list of modifications and/or a search will help.

It isn't going to matter much if it is an S2 stagea ECU or R34 as the Nistune type 4 board will work in either.

Pretty straightforward to me.

There is a tutorial already in DIY.

How does the boost leak past the valve when there is an equalising pressure from the plenum acting on the top of the valve? As long as the spring is physically holding the valve shut when the engine is off then it will only crack when the pressure in the intake is greater than the tension on the spring. I couldn't agree more. Get rid of the aftermarket BOV. There is nothing to be gained by using it.

I know people who have installed them without re-shimming. Likewise it doesn't mean they are at Tomei spec.

Pretty sure you have the wrong guy there BB.

Probably useless information but I had a CAS error showing up when one or more of the coil packs had issues.

Look at forum sponsors in the for sale section for readily available replacements. Search for threads by chuckie on how to repair coils with polyurethane spray. Currently due to the strong AUD quite a few people are buying OEM coils from the USA.

Kinks was taking the mickey....

It is a stupid nanny state like decision but hopefully MW does a little circle work .

Hi Anthony, it's alcohol isn't it?!?! It reduces knock and lowers the ladeez resistance.

Well you never know, Webber might bin it anyway.

That is an image that I am going to carry with me for the rest of the day. I am just not sure what is grabbing me and what is slapping me.

Is the ID tag still on the turbo?

Call and negotiate. They might deal at or around what your friend wants to pay if you ask nicely.