wolverine

^^ another very good tuner

Is there nothing here in the SAU classifieds?? I would be really surprised if you can't find something equal or better.

Afraid not.

Sh@un are you comIng down to melbourne?

Stretched 120Y is my mail.

Step nose.........you already know, deep down, it's going to be faster.

With aging some look grey/purple.

JWT (Jim Wolf Technologies) might know or Camtech may have blanks for the VQ30 which might be very similar.

T04GTR (Dave) might be worth asking.

^^^ x2 Thanks Ben

Last I checked there was one at my mechanics that he would be happy to get rid of for cheap in Hills District Sydney. Shoot me a PM if interested.

sms sent

Sure do

I have your GTX3071 at 278.5 as tuned with 98ron. It is a bigger jump with the E85 than you are quoting. Keep in mind my old school GT3076 with ATP TS housing seemed to come on earlier than the smaller 71mm GTX with 98ron. The claims of 360-400rwkw with E85 might be coming from a certain dyno which seems to produce some higher results than many others so make sure you compare apples with apples. Early results show the GTX3076 to be very similar to a GT3082 aka GT3040. The turbine has proven to be the limiting factor on these turbos. Scotty has the bigger Tial housing (from memory) so the 76mm GTX compressor will have every chance but ultimately I reckon the 71mm compressor is not the limitation.

I made a small fin to sit on top of the cooler itself which discourages air spilling over the top.

Surely the air is moving too quickly to have an effect and your new pipe run doesn't run over the radiator now anyway.

I suggest bringing your car over to the west of Sydney to Unigroup. It's a long drive but worth it. I think DART are closer to you and also by reputation do good work. I know nothing of Port Hacking Automotive so no help from me there but the best advice I can give is to take it to the best tuner possible who has a good history with RB's. Nistune is the cheapest way to go and does a reasonable job.

I couldn't agree more with you when it comes to getting reliable power without spending big coin on an engine build. The stock engine with good tuning makes more than enough power for the fat slug. Personally would leave it in there and knock out 250-280rwkw and enjoy a long and fruitful life. However, the OP wants to pull the engine out and rebuild so it is worth considering an RB30. IMO spending extra money on fitting an RB30 is much smarter than removing old engine, fitting a DE, then reinstalling the DET down the track but each to their own.

Sure it costs more but you get more for your trouble.

Build costs of the engine are very similar BUT there are extras to consider as listed in original post. I re-read what I wrote and I am pretty sure that is what I said. Bonnet clearance is not an issue in a stagea AFAIK. RIPS RB30 with sump adapter are not overly expensive and will be a single engine swap.

Why do you want the original engine back in the car? Anyway if you are going to the trouble of an engine rebuild have you considered going the RB30 route as the build cost is pretty similar but you need to allow for head mods, sump cradle and engineering/emissions. The RWD blocks are not pre-drilled for an AWD sump/diff so using the DE is problematic and I think a waste of time, money and effort. 2nd hand stagea engines are available for cheap.

Have you thought about the front diff? The best bet is find another stagea engine and rebuild it.

Nice work Mick. (can you hang on to your old cross over pipe I might need one in a week or so)

I have a box of Rb25 fuel rails and most of them have the colours you describe once you clean off the sludge. IMO the colours are normal.

A bit of tippy toeing around going on.