fane

i know paul's car has seen the strip but im not sure of hp rating then and whether he had stock injectors in.... it was a 12s pass tho

mircotech is a whole ecu and its not plug and play so you have to wire it in.... its a big job and worth quite a bit in labour....aswell as initial price....turbocharging6 is just saying that he would prefer it over the pfc i believe.... safc only changes stock map by correction....so if there is no correction to stock map there is no change... so thats easy....and you need to tune it with something that monitors afrs....like a dyno or the thing that hangs off your exhaust....

gtr....not the 34 type

stick on front of ash tray best idea....i have safc there and my mate has his hybrid controller there...it fits good and it only costs you some double sided tape.....and you dont lose you ash tray...

get a manual, 2ez

profec-b for ebc...cant lose....my experience with avcrs is not good....boost creeps and boost falls...

pfc can change ignition and the fuel maps (afrs) safc can only change the afrs....by tricking the computer with different airflow readings... Super Air Flow Converter www.apexi.com i would suggest safc over pfc only for price.... bleed valve just snip tube, block stock bleed thingo i think and 2ez your running 10psi with a good fuel map (safc). so hot weather wont hurt you car at all because of the nice afrs from your safc... a fmic by itself wont do much, a pfc isnt worth it until you get bigger mods....and if your not planning to do them then i wouldnt bother with pfc and i would just get a safc. my mods that in my sig is what i called stage 1 in performance....cheap bolts ons and a safc...which i put in myself...then tuned by me and my mechanic with thingo in exhaust to monitor the afrs....my car never knocked.....and i just pulled off my turbo and there is no shaft play.....and i ran 13psi for quite a while....with a fmic ofcourse....always let car warmup before boosting helps look after your turbo and making sure it doesn knock (good fuelmap and safc can monitor) my suggestion as i said before, is mods below if thats where you are gonna stop....if you are getting a bigger turbo and stuff like that later i would get the pfc to save you the money later on. EDIT: Mods arnt in sig anymore, so here they are... note: not including suspension and clutch and crap like that ebc (short term, bleed valve) pod turbo back safc2 fmic 13psi (10 without fmic) i think thats it running 10psi and no fmic or safc i got 13.8 down the 1/4 running 13psi and fmic and safc with about 11.8 afrs (no knocking) i got 13.2 down the 1/4 i would have been happy with that but lost licence and had some spare cash so i got a hi-flow...and need some more tuning so gotta get the pfc if you want anymore info heaps of us have been through that stage and we can help...

profec-b easy....

i paid 460 a little while ago but mine is a d1 edition, looks a bit different but does the same thing.....only 1000 in the world.... safc2 is deffinately an awesome upgrade when doing bolt on mods to your car like fmic and exhaust and stuff like that.... AFRs stand for Air Fuel Ratios safc2 also has and air correction bit in it that stops the car running out of air whichs causes the pop and stall symptoms....like others said, its usually caused by a/m bov's venting to atmo... i just sold my safc2 for 390....im upgrading to pfc because of hi-flow turbo...i need ignition timing... but other than that safc is definately best upgrade i got...because it makes you use all the upgraded boost and fmic and exhaust to its best efficiency....prolly gain some fuel economy aswell as definately getting some power....

safc is easy to use but you need something to monitor your afrs to tune it, so you need to get on a dyno or something like that. price is about ~350 second hand prolly less i suppose and nengun has them new for for 410 plus shipping.... easy to put in your car....all the instructions are there and all the bits....i put mine in, in about 30 mins... i suggest a safc if you dont plan on doing huge things to your car....you can get a fmic later and a dump pipe and you will have a resonably fast car, especially for price of mods. ps. remap of ecu will work, but it will probably cost you just as much and you wont have a nice thing in your cabin to look at and a a monitor to look at your knock sensor and other cool features like that. Plus once you have got the safc and then your get a mod (eg. fmic) then you can just tune your safc easy, rather than having to get another remap.

ooooo

fmic wont make it less rich at all, what your looking for is a safc for the cheaper option but if you have ideas for you car later on then look at a pfc or another ecu.... safc is great for fixing your afrs for everytime you get a mod and has been fine for me for ages until i got my hi-flow turbo

uh huh

dont worry dood we have all done it, and if you are a smartass and say you havent and you wont then, dont get your hopes up... dont tell me you went dori with 4wd on....please tell me you pulled the fuses...

we might 30 and get it down further

not gonna feel effects of a fmic... unless you get something to tune it like you say a pfc.... but a safc is cheaper and should be fine for your mods so far...thats if you get a fmic... my suggestion is a ~$60 bleed valve and run 10psi instead of stock then you feel some serious power difference from stock

PFC will fix my problem if i keep my stock afm? or will i need the z32 afm plus the pfc?

r33 gtst s1, rb25det

Shadowstrike vbmenu_register("postmenu_1091136", true); Streetracer/ Skyline tuner Name: Alex Age: 16 Location: Malaysia Car(s): Nissan Skyline R34 Join Date: Nov 2004 lol

without something to tune it like a safc you wont get much from a fmic but a huge flat spot and a spike at the top end saves your turbo tho....because i heard stock ic restricts about 7psi compared to 2-3psi from an aftermarket one.... so your turbo doesnt have to spin as fast or as hot to get the same pressure....which the advantages from that are obvious....hence being about to up the boost a couple of psi.... my suggestion is to get a safc with your fmic to get the real advantages....

i dont know joel....it doesnt explain the manual i dont think but i would say that it just changes the signal so that the ecu thinks its a normal afm but is getting the right readings in proportion to the change.... as far as i understand the safc is there to trick the ecu by sending it wrong readings with everything....so that the ecu puts in the right amount of fuel and crap like that.....am i right?

i hunted down the manual and found out that for you to run a z32 afm on a r33 you have to have the in on HW2 and the out on HW4. Currently mine is on HW4 - HW4 and they show how to put it on a SR20 so i presume the same applies to the RB25 Here is the page,

how much 1 of those systems worth?

what is SITC by the way? sorry if its a stupid question...

robos: how do you know your afm is maxing out?