mosoto

What part of the cluster was replaced because that my friend is a return to dealer issue. There is definitely a mismatch of components rendering the display useless. In fact if inspected by plod they would sticker your car I'm sure. I would be seeing about getting that fixed.

If I understand what you're trying to convey and your cluster looks like this then: Thickest lines are the 20Kph increments (20-40-60-80) Mid Thick lines are the 10kph increments (10-30-50-70) and the thin lines are the 2kph increments in between.

I've got the N6000 on my daily, a 5.7 litre commonwhore with plenty of torque and to be honest they're pretty reliable in the wet. They've not lost traction yet........................touch wood

Aside from fitting under the guard I think 295 would be as wide as you'd want to go on a 10.5 rim. 305 is getting into 11" rim territory. Best to look at your availability in that size then visit the manufacturers site for recommended tyre/rim widths

Nailed it me thinks

purchased mine privately here in Perth at 34,000kms. The bloke who had it b4 me imported it at about 19,000kms and they were genuine, as long as the Jap auction sheet is Having said that, there was no wear on the carpets and the seats were like new so they were likely genuine K's.

Postage was probably set high to discourage anyone outside of WA. Would be a good buy for someone local to pick up and save postage.

All vehicle regulations are supposedly governed by NCOP.(National Code of Practice) in conjunction with ADR. Window Tinting clause 7.2 page 24 http://www.infrastru...0_01Jan2011.pdf short answer 70% transmittance (30% tint) Wheels & Tyres table on Page 23 http://www.infrastru...n_2011%20v3.pdf get to know your maximum tyre widths / aspect ratios in relation to stock. all codes here : http://www.infrastru...n/vsb_ncop.aspx

Page 6 under Multi-Viscosity oil proved my point, I'm just wondering why you posted it if you did so in support of your argument . Let's not detract from the fact we are talking about what the two figures mean NOT how they were tested to attain those figures. So my original comment stands. The first figure is the cold viscosity, the second figure is the hot. This subject has been done to death on these forums and yet everyone STILL agrees to disagree on all things oil LOL. i'm out....................

yeah we have sussed that in the previous link. It's a mistake from my shock building days.

Really??? as an example have a read greg. Both numbers are cold & hot viscocities. The first number is not a temp but a cold viscocity, the second number is the hot viscocity measured at 210º http://www.upmpg.com...roil_viscosity/

bummer about the sougi. "Was" a good oil. For Australian conditions and normal street use the 10w40 would be absolutely fine in a synthetic.

I'll also let you guys in on a lil secret which has prob been long forgotten. GW Sougi 6000 if still available is only $80 for 5 litres of pure synthetic and comparable to Royal Purple / Motul etc etc http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/22458-the-goods-on-oils/page__pid__6169165__st__2460#entry6169165

A little clarity required here. The first number is the viscosity when cold i.e at cold start. eg 5 weight or 10 weight. Yes thats what the W is for. The second number is the viscocity at operating temperature eg 30 weight or 40 weight. So it depends on how "thick" you want your oil at start up and op temp. depending on environment & driving conditions. It has absolutely nothing to do with the point where oil breaks down LOL.

FIXED. but yup you're right sorry my bad..............DOWNSIDE you'll clock up more K's on the odo than you've actually done.

+1 yup wot he said. So when your speedo reads100kph you're actually only travelling at 96.3kph. On the bright side that's in your favour when going thru a multinova and you'll clock up less K's on the odo than you will actually do

Nice price. What size Leon?

For that price try looking at Nitto Invo's which are comparable to Yokohama V103 for grip but much quieter and longer tread life. PM Taleb tyres ( Ali) who is a forum sponsor.

Long story short Vic, He doesn't get the car until the money is confirmed cleared into your account. It's as simple as that. All the banter on how long it will take to clear is moot because each bank has their own policy on bank cheque deposits. Stamp duty needs to be paid by the buyer when they do the transfer at the licensing office. As a private seller you don't need to provide any additional legal documentation to prove the sale, proof is all in the transfer papers. With private sales it's "caveat emptor" (buyer beware) and he should know this. Good luck with it m8, hope it goes smooth. My last few have been pretty easy.

Try it again, but use the right figures this time LOL. remembering here that the OP was comparing the tyre wall sizes front to rear. A 245/35/19 has a sidewall of 85.8mm A 275.30/19 has a sidewall of 82.5mm thats a difference of 3.3mm in the sidewall or 6.6mm in diameter.

there's actually only a 3.3mm difference overall diameter between a 245/35 & 275/30. I don't think you'll even see it. secondly it's as close as you're going to get to identical rolling diameters and it won't upset VDC at all as it's under tolerance Here's your reference material http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

White & Black generally sell better & sometimes higher as well because they are less common colours.

I have Ohlins adjustable coilovers which you may appreciate are fairly high on the list of better options. Unless you plan to drop the ride height more than 50mm the coilovers are probably overkill. I've only dropped my ride height 30-40mm and achieved the look and handling I was after. If given the option again I'd go springs & struts as I could have achieved the same outcome.

Interesting you say that, it worked fine on my yellowed lenses .

LOL everytime this issue comes up I reach for the And it don't cost $45 Ironically look at the car on the bottle.....................