riggaP

Correct. This was the only mod done between dyno runs. Also correct, and forms the very reason. So heres my point; Dynos are a tuning tool. Anyone chasing a dyno figure is missing the point IMO. As my example has pointed out, you could achieve 150rwkw at one place then have another place "retune" the car and achieve 195 without effectively doing anything. I'm not sure anyone with half a twit is going to argue you can get 42rwkw by adding a high flow cat. A dyno figure is not going to give you any idea how fast the car is going to be, and because of this, dont mean squat.

I was told that Platinums are not as good as coppers. I had a misfire problem and was told the platinums were the cause. This turned out not to be the case as the problem was with the stock ecu dumping too much fuel for "air flow protection". I cbf waiting for the next service to change them coz I'm a uni student bum and could use the pocket money.

Can you attach a pic to the first post?

I got this off the NGK website for people who dont have 33s: http://www.ngk.com.au/qa_4.htm R32: 89-91 RB20DET PFR5A-11 (5 is a hotter heat rating. 6A may be better depending on mods) 91-93 RB20DET PFR6A-11 perfect R34: 98-01 RB25DET PFR6G-11 (the A should be fine - I'm waiting on confirmation from NGK)

Give Mag Wheel & Tyre a call http://www.magwheel.com.au/. They were the cheapest place I could find for road tyres and they stock semi comps.

Awesome choice of wheels Mine are Rays. I got them thru www.j-spec.com.au and saved heaps. btw heres a rough idea of what they'll look like

I got my Rays thru www.j-spec.com.au and saved heaps

For people who are wanting 200rwkw out of their "stockish" RB25DET heres something to consider. The dyno graphs below represent my car on 2 different dynos. The first one was done December 03 on a 20degC day and made 153rwkw. Mods were: * bleed valve @ 13psi * Chipped stock R33 ECU * Turbo back zorst (with crppy compliance cat) * K&N panel filter The sencond one was done June 04 on a 10 deg day and made 195rwkw. For a bit of fun, lets see if you can tell me where the extra 42rwkw came from

True. In Vic you risk a $10k fine for no cat. There is no way in hell a catless skyline could pass emissions. Even my nose could tell you that.

:werd: Ultimate is tops. I went off Synergy when I got a bad batch but its up there. I wont go near Opticrap.

wtf has this got to do with "a Resistor to Gain up to 20 hp on your Engine !!"??

Sounds like you cooked the brakes. Better pads and fluid should fix it. The same thing happened in my previous car, which was caused by a faulty handbrake. The master cylinder followed soon after It had a similar feeling under the pedal but a lot more expensive to fix.

From your description I'd say anywhere between 16-18k. How much are they asking for?

Hi all, I have a set of 6 NGK Platinum spark plugs (PFR6A-11) for sale. Heres a few details: * They have only travelled 5000km (i.e. should be good for another 95,000km) * Worked well in my R33 RB25DET * Obviously in near new condition * Currently gapped @ 0.8mm * Check out the NGK Website for a condition report. I want *SOLD* and this price includes postage to anywhere in Australia. * COD will require an additional $8.40. * Melbourne buyers can arrange pick up. These plugs cost me $120 so I believe you're getting a super deal

I'm still consistently getting more km per tank. Last week I got 585 out of 70 litres

lol... I'm not affraid to use it at all. My car has actually been to the track (well the drags) a few times, unlike most of the other daily driven cars around the place. Its just a little hard to do more than the odd burst in every day traffic 5 days a week. How often does your car see full boost getting from A to B? Your opinion seems to suggest that modifying a daily driver at all is a waste of time. Anyway point taken. Over 10psi you take a risk. I spose the real rule is there is no rule.

Forgot to add a pic: There is minor damage to the front. A very low speed car parking accident

Great day! Heres a few pics... I need a new digi cam

That is some funny shit!

Well point taken. If your goin to the track and are on boost 90% of the time then I guess you're temping fate. However, my car rarely sees boost during the week goin from A to B because its a daily driver (and I'm a tight arse when it comes to fuel consumption ). I'm just not convinced that the odd burst on boost is goin to do all that much damage based on others I know who have had success running 10-13psi.

I've run 13psi for almost a year without any problems. As long as you dont drive like a maniac the whole time, and only use boost when "needed" the turbo should hold. The general rule of thumb I've found (speaking with performance shops) is dont go over 14psi if you want more than 12 months out of the stock turbo. Remember if you're going over 10psi you will more than likely run into "over air flow protection" and the car will start to missfire around 4500-5000rpm. Piggy back ECU, proper spark plugs and gaps, tested coils, and maybe even the crank angle sensor will help this situation (in order of preference IMO).

Me too. Cheers Steve.

Has anything been confirmed on this front?

If the gap is too small it will sound like marbles are rolling around in the engine (i.e a few cylinders wont fire). You will notice this as soon as the car is started. If you have an exhaust the boost usually creeps up a few PSI so gapping to 0.9-0.8 could be an idea.

The offset has nothing to do with the size of the rim. Where you are right is the fact that the PCD of your Volks would not fit a Subaru. Subaru generally have a PCD of 5x100 which I failed to pick up on... However, Lenso agree with me on the offset