Hanaldo

Parts list is awesome, and if this is the same build I'm thinking of then those turbos look monstrous strapped to the side of the engine! Looking forward to updates.

PM'd.

PM'd.

Haha nahhhhhh, I let my dummy sit on the floor and get dusty for a bit, but I've picked it up again. I'm afraid I'm gonna have to keep you in the dark with what I'm planning now though, my build thread needs fresh excitement

Thanks for the feedback mate, I still haven't got on the phone yet as I need to wait for the space before I can pull the head off. Mind if I ask what you had done there?

No where near enough updates man, you're supposed to be keeping me motivated! Any news??

Your pod filter is a good 3 feet too long? Also it's an R33 *hides*

Make them yourself, it's easy as. Speedflow braided hose is about $30 per meter, fittings are about $15 each for straight ends or $40 each for 90-degrees. I used to get my stuff from speedflowdirect.com.au, but Go Gear isn't really that much more expensive.

Does the wastegate mount right there? I thought you're supposed to have a decent distance between the top of the wastegate and any heat sources, that looks like the diaphragm is gonna get pretty toasty?

As in, probably not anything you will legitimately notice, though you might get a nice placebo effect. I'd say don't bother, end of the day it's a workhorse diesel Astra, trying to make it faster is a waste of time/money.

Under 10L per 100 isn't that outrageous, I get under that as well. Usually about 9.5L per 100.

I've bought two separate kits to do mine, it's by far the simplest way. It's definitely possibly to do it with just one ballast, for example using a dual hi/low beam type setup where both bulbs are on all the time but there is a 'shield' that covers whichever one is not in use. This is quite a good way of doing it because it won't have the delay that my setup has when you switch to highbeam and the gasses need a few seconds to warm up. Whether this can be incorporated into Skyline headlight housings I'm not sure, I haven't looked into it to be honest. There may also be another way of just using one ballast but still having two separate bulbs, but it would definitely require a special ballast, you couldn't just buy a normal HID kit and run two separate bulbs with it.

Have answered the ones I know, but most of what you have asked is completely pointless. The RB25DET Neo engine is a very good motor, there's no point trying to put RB26 stuff in it. You want a GTR then buy a GTR, it will be cheaper and better than converting a GTT to one. You've got a GTT. Build a GTT.

This doesn't inspire me with confidence If it's not -6 thread then it's most likely not AN, would be something similar. Why HKS have made this plug so obscure seems strange to me, I'm struggling to find the 6.5mm allen key as well. I don't want to weld it up or do anything permanent because I do plan on running twin-entry in the future. Hadn't heard about Loctite thread sealant not being fuel resistant either, that could be a problem too. I didn't know where else to put it!? Lol. I figured it's not really a performance question, and it's not really a maintenance question... It's not really a cosmetic question either, but I bought the rail for cosmetic purposes so I thought I'd continue with that

Stable in 125km/h winds is it? Fark that. I had a scooter when I was 16. Bloody thing would get blown around so badly, I remember driving home from my gf's at 1am, pouring rain, no gloves. Was so cold I couldn't move my fingers to squeeze the brake Good times.

Not so fun in weather like what will hit us tonight/tomorrow though

Grey R33 GTST parked at the Shops at Ellenbrook today. Domokun hanging from the tow hook and SAUWA/Ovaboost stickers in the right quarter window.

Wow I used a lot of words for such a simple problem. Sorry

Hey all, I have no friggin clue where was best to ask this question, so figured I would just post it here seeing as it is for cosmetic purposes. While I was installing my HKS fuel rail, I did up the blanking plug for the centre return line with a 6mm allen key. I was only intending to have it in there to stop anything getting in while I was working on the car, but of course I promptly forgot about it. When I then primed the fuel rail to check for leaks, this plug is now leaking. Only a tiny bit but I have this thing about fire in my engine bay, I'm sure you understand. The issue is, when I went to take the plug out to put some Loctite thread sealant on it (as I should have just done when I put it in, don't know why I didn't), I discovered that the damn thing isn't actually a 6mm allen key, and I've now rounded it. So I need to get a new one. But, I'm not 100% sure on the sizes. Does anyone know if it is a 6.5 or 7mm allen key that I need? AND, I'm assuming that it is a -6 AN thread, same as the other fittings that came with the rail? So a -6 AN Speedflow plug would be perfect? Thanks for any help, Martin.

I don't think he sees the html shit in his posts Jez lol, now you look like a jerk

Just click on the link, if it doesn't work then copy and paste the URL straight into google. Thread will come up and you can still get to it that way.

Why? The first thing I would do if my oil pressure gauge started beeping would be switch the engine off; ECU can do it much faster.

Do NOT spray water straight out of a hose and into your engine bay. Neo's seriously do not like it. Use a cloth and lots of elbow grease.

Haha this is why I didn't want to bump this thread. I think the OP already has his answer guys, it's been stated in this thread a number of times already. I am just about to remove the head on my internally stock engine, so I want an OEM head gasket and remembered that this thread had a link.

Orrrr, the bloke knows that Skyline's normally operate with about 15 degrees base timing, so he just wanted to appear like he knew something? Lol. Nah never mind. What Jez and Mafia said.