Hanaldo

Brad, Honestly mate, I'm starting to get a bit tired of this. It's been 2 and a half months since you said you were going to post my catch can out. You did me a big favour by modifying it for me when you are so busy, and I appreciate that, but 2 months just to post something is getting a bit ridiculous. The lack of communication is getting tiresome, I've tried calling you as you asked but if the time difference means I can't call you when it suits you then that isn't going to work. Please let me know what is going on mate. Martin.

I drove it hard at the track and spun out on a couple of occasions, so I have no doubt that took off a fair chunk of life. But I only got in 10, maybe 12 laps. On the street I drive pretty sedately with the odd 1st, 2nd, 3rd bursts. So they don't last very long, but no doubt without the track abuse they would last longer. I think you'll find that if you don't destroy the compound on the tyres by tracking them hard, doing skids, etc. etc. then they would last a fair bit longer. But I'd be surprised if you got more than 15-20k km's out of them.

The KU36's have a treadwear of 180, the RSR's are 140. So not a huge difference. I know my KU36's lasted about 1 track day and maybe 8000km's, so they don't last either.

Have you tried them out at Barbs dude? I found my KU36's are ok on the street, but they really come alive when you get some heat into them on the track.

Why the change in motor? Not happy with the performance??

No money in it My mates engine builder (I thought you may have been getting him to do it, that's why I asked earlier) is absolutely rolling in it haha. Very very very busy though. Anyway, I understand how frustrating it is waiting on other people! Looking forward to seeing progress though

Build plates on the 34 don't mean much... anyone else remember the 'GT-X 2500R'?

The times when people are ACTUALLY making 300rwkw, they aren't getting good economy. When you're putting around town off boost and the engine is only producing around 80rwhp, that's when you get decent enough economy. The last time I was on the track with my old G2 setup, I only got 215km's to a full tank. That included the 30-odd km drive from my house to the track.

Also saw an R35 in Midland/Hazelmere area today, near Rosehill Golf Course. Dude wasn't wearing a seatbelt

Yehh, you just gotta keep in mind that debt collectors can't just magically go and get assets that Blake doesn't have. The man is broke, if he doesn't have your money and he doesn't have any assets to the value of your money then there's nothing debt collectors can do. Debt collectors also don't have THAT much power to do anything, not legally anyway. Really they just send persistent letters and legal ultimatums, they aren't allowed to intimidate, embarrass or demoralize anyone. The best way to go about it would be to file a tort, or small claims case as Brad pointed out. Then the courts can determine what assets Blake has that can be liquidated. The problem is... It's lengthy and often expensive. For the sake of $700, it's probably not worth it, you're more likely to be better off just cutting your losses now.

Very very different cars from factory, can't really compare them. You're talking a 335kw V8 compared to a ~180kw straight 6. Ford also designed it to work properly with a good heat shield and a cold air intake, something that most people who bolt on a pod filter don't bother doing.

Not quite that easy.

Ha. The only Honda I would ever buy is an 1100cc crutch rocket, and I don't trust myself on one of those yet.

Yeh the dyno measures tractive effort, not torque. Torque is relative to power and rpm, you can work out your torque at the wheels using: T(Nm) = P(kW) x 9543 ÷ RPM

Haha sorry lads, not posting anything until there is something to be posted

No, it shouldn't. t really does sound like a vacuum leak though, are you sure none of your hoses are loose or split? Is it idling ok? Even if it is, it could be a hose that's split and only leaking at higher vacuum/boost. Could also be AFM as 89CAL said, max voltage should be around 5V. But how much power are you making? I'd be surprised if you were maxing the Z32.

If it was spark plugs it would be a misfire, not a cut. Misfire is usually not as violent as a cut,and very identifiable from the sound. I wouldn't play around with the boost controller either, it's more likely to be something that has changed. What boost do you normally run? I assume the EVC 5 has a limit function like the Greddy Profec B?? What is that set to?

I had Power Enterprise 650's in my old setup. Made the power, but I had a pretty shocking idle.

Probably meant to be used in conjunction with the Adaptronic ECU's that Stao can supply.

Narrowbands are useless junk man, all they tell you is if your O2 sensor is working. They operate on a 0-1v range, so they either read very rich, very lean, or stoich when you are in closed loop, nothing else. If you're going to get one, get a proper wideband which operates on a 0-5v range. But it's not really necessary. The AEM Uego kit is about $200 delivered depending on the strength of the Aussie dollar, and that's about the cheapest. Unless you're hitting the track or planning on doing your own tuning, I would spend the money elsewhere.

Sounds like a miswording man, the Shadow Pro gauges come with all the sensors. I've got them in my car. What you need is a water sensor adapter to go in your radiator hose: And a sandwich plate to screw on between your block and your oil filter:

So you know you wanna swap cars with me yeah?? Yours is done now, that's no fun, mine still has plenty for you to mess with Seriously though man, awesome result. Hurry up with the graph, I wanna see what the curve looks like! I like the glovebox too, looks mad. Personally wouldn't like the wideband hidden away like that but I'm just jelly

Top feed though, so not plug-in for you 33 guys. For what it's worth though, my new ID1000's are exactly as good as everyone makes them out to be, they're unbelievable. I've so far only been able to putt around with them, but my car has never idled so well before, the AFR's just sit dead still at 14.7 at idle and all my cold start/hot start issues are gone. My Power Enterprise 650's would bounce around all over the place between 15:1 and over 18:1 (AFR gauge maxed at 18 so couldn't see how much leaner it got). Had quite a rough idle because of it, but now it just purrs. Not sure how much of that is to do with the new Link ecu as well though.

Pretty sure that's the basic theory behind ceramic coating? It keeps more heat in the exhaust, more heat = more energy. Obviously keeping the energy in the system is better than having it dissipate out into the engine bay.

... Possibly? Lol. If he drove into one of the many pot-holes they have, then yes, I'd say that was a fault in the road. If not then obviously not, but I don't see what exactly him being Australian has to do with anything?