STYLN

thats been happening for years and will always continue. Ive got mates who deliverately did the N/A hard tuned car coz now days its considered different. There's some impressive results thats for sure in the N/A ways. Turbo and forced induction is no different. There are great and bad examples, standard and mild in any car and the options NO MATTER WHAT CAR YOU OWN are only limited by laws and your own imagination. Cant wait to see someone fit an RB25 DET from an r34 gtt into a VN or VT commonwhore, to be different. He'll get shot down by both scenes LMFAO. Typicalt of the closed minded nature many people have inside a diversified scene. oh and Props to your tidy engine bay a few posts back Missr34 its a nice example of clean respectble mods in the N/A world. Push on girl im a fan regardless what directions you choose its the standard of work that sets the best aside, not the aspiration.

After 8 pages of crap and varied arguments, interesting points, haters, children, informed tech heads, posers, reviewers and sh*tstirrers the debate still rolls on. Have a look above at this post chopped out of course. He bought coz it had what he wanted. As did many of you, weather you like N/A or turbo commodore or skyline. Miss r34 for example clearly loves her beast and good on her. mad082 had some spot on tech and someone even pointed out that numbers mean jack on the road. They sell cars not prove cars... Bet in the end people are getting caught up defending and attacking for their personal loves or beliefs. Diversity is what makes the car scene so great guys, so dont hate, APPRECIATE. So i remind you. The original thread owners point was he was gettin payed out on by his mates for buying the car he wanted. As a young guy i gave him the best answer to shut them up (page 2). Based on top gears test its a fact too. +1 for sure as a new member i raised my eyebrow.

hahahaha i love being spotted! The styln gets around thats for sure. Spotted BAKES r34 gtr (R34GTR) at turton road lights on friday (that things the sex!) spotted black r34 4 door and white r33 in foreshore yesterday arvo

in my experience the results of the oils can vary depending on the engine types, considerably. Some engines just like some oils more. I run Castrol Edge in my skyline on the advice of Guilt Toy I run Penrite HPR40 in my sigma as its proven to perform in the 4g54 I'd be keen to see a test run by Top Gear or something testing oils across the same car completely impartially. I once read a magazine article ages back that compared oils by subjecting it to a friction test on a peice of steel round bar against a metal plate. The resulting wear or lack of after X runs showed the best results. Royal Purple, motul and penrite all did very well. Edge wasnt around then... An oil isnt proven by a poofteenth of a kW on a dyno, its proven by wear, temperatures and the way it looks at each oil change.

WOW an impressive result! Great to see big numbers coming out regardless of usability / daily drives / tracks its a figure that commands respect. Im not the dyno / horsepower comp type but respect where respect is due.

There has been a recent spate of fake engineer certificates getting about. People have been scanning and changing them and going to the RTA to engineer their cars fraudulently. The RTA and Police have become aware of the situation and are now conducting an audit on ALL engineering signatories in NSW. They are basically requesting a copy of all certified and draft certified vehicles from engineers directly, so that it is on RTA/Police record first for cross-referencing. From the understanding we have it is an audit on all vehicles since 1st January 2009. From now on, if an engineer doesnt directly submit an engineer certificate to the RTA as soon as its done, then people turning up to a registry with an engineer certificate cant have their cars passed until the RTA have a direct copy from the engineer to cross reference it to for authenticity (basically a 2-part process). The Police will also have access to the engineer certificate on file and can bring it up on their in car computer system. All the better for weeding out all the dodgey engineers and idiots making false certificates which makes it worse for the rest of us who are doing it legitimately

I work for RTA in delivering blackspot projects and as i have easy and logical access to the info here's an extract from a post im putting together for the website to use as DIY guide and tech reference thread. LOWERING & RAISING VEHICLES the debate over raising and lowering vehicles is a lengthy one. Having been to the RTA's crash lab and seeing the test and the results i assure you it's scary. The future direction of the car industry is to make all bumper heights the same or within x mm height. WHY??? so when you crash into one another or a pedestrian the resulting accident is more controlled. example:A standard commercial van with a bumper height of 700mm hits a porsche carrera with bumper height 280mm at 60km/hr head on. The van will launch off the porsche but first take the drivers head off with the front wheel before flying off into an uncontrolled rollover untill it strikes god knows what. document on lowering & rasing vehicles. http://whome.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/d...7-july-2009.pdf

I had written a rather detailed post on this but it dissapeared after submitting???? Did you guys miss this guys post? ANyway he's spot on, im just glad im not the poor bugger who's gotta clean up daley's mess.

couldnt be further wrong. heaps of car scenes in newi so you must be missn the areas or something. Im also in newi and driving a skyline, regularly spotting heaps of them but who knows if theyre members. Come check out my website www.newcastledna.com and go from there. Also head into Newcastle foreshore near nobbys beach etc on any sunday afternoon from 12pm to 5pm and you'll certainly stand corrected. Im just sorry to hear you havnt seen any mate. Nelson bay seems to be one of those places with more of a surf / 4wd scene than newcastle it often gets missed out.

Guys n Girls the argument is simple: You will ALWAYS score more in the Skyline than you will in a commonwhore... higher quality too. everytime your bogan hater mates are rippin on ya for buyin an n/a skyline remind them that not only do hot chicks love the skylines, but the guys are also suckers for chicks who own imports. Ask them why'd they buy the commonwhore????

and here i was thinking it's the valmorphanize button....

Thanks Hekt1k much appreciated mate. im a fan of keeping the original guages wherever i can, so i'll check it out before going down the line as suggested by turbotonic (cheers also) thats a nice job tangles! i noticed youve not hooked up the bracket mount they give you with the top pipe section. Did you have fan issues doing that??? I got the normal kit sent up by JJR and played last weekend swapping back to the one piece top pipe kit. (just that pipe for now). The newer two piece kit by JJR is slightly larger pipe (by 1/4") and it bends different in the top pipe area to clear away from the belt cover and the fan. It's not an easy fit per say an it's hardly beutiful as you see, but it's quite effective at staying away from the fan. As soon as i fitted the older style one piece top pipe i had fan issues but a bit of tweaking of the brackets, the alignment and bingo i cleared the fan by just enough. see below the comparison pics of the one and two piece versions. Time to fix the horn mountings and washer bottle next...

puttin my hand up like bakes (newcastle area) if your looking for mild jdm appeal in an r34, though mine is the 4 door model. Plates are probably what she'd like most... That said i can travel if you like, just need time (bout an hour) to detail on arrival

Yeah no disagreement with any of that. my point is simple, that a cam with more lobe, increases volume which in turn has to improve boost response no matter what turbo he has fitted.

This man he knows^... i went the already gapped iridiums at 0.86. Since JJR replaced my faulty coil pack it hasnt missed a beat.

the daily the weekender

mate i'd be looking at cams first, then retune up injectors etc. If your struggling with lag then clearly dropping turbo sizes will help response a little but as many have said you get stuff all benefits in swapping turbo gates etc... The key to thinking about how to reduce lag is to look for ways to either reduce engine load allowing faster build up of revs OR the best one, is build the volume of air it pushes out on the out stroke. Less vac lines/shorter cooler piping/etc could also help. A cam will make drastic or subtle changes to the engines flow characteristics, port polish and valve train all help the engine breathe better. If you have the coin and if its possible stroke the engine, knife edge the crank etc... Stroke & capacity builds not only torque but spool up times. Example. My factory siggy turbo running just 4 cylinders at just under 2.8L with the long stroke and 91mm pistons can spool up a t4 turbo with a 1.15 rear housing and 0.6 a/r comes on at 3200rpm. The same engine with a 0.86 rear and 0.7 a/r will come on boost at 1750rpm. Now the engine capacity is almost the same, but the strokes and technology are worlds apart. IMO the key to picking up your boost earlier is cams and other efficiency items. I'm no expert but it's my common sense thoughts here...

i will fill it out from my forums perspective straight after lunch and get it in. fingers crossed it gets some serious thought. It all starts somewhere...

Hey guys can anyone shed any light on why my factory boost guage works sometimes and other times not? It was fine before i fitted the boost controller and up to the fmic install, but now it's random on when it works and doesnt work. Where / how does the factory boost guage get it's reading from???

no we dont want that if effy takes one look at the chicks you guys have cruisn the beaches and shops over there he'll never come back. Sorry but we own the right to him. Effy what ecu do you recommend? Power FC appears to be the common one everyone want for skylines, but ive found the adaptronic flawless on my siggy, so im tempted to ditch the factory stuff and rig in a full control ecu? or is that foolish spending???

thanks guys! I'll get the washer bottle done asap coz its something i use regularly i have found over the last few days After a look around i found a pic from one of the stag boys that shows it well. SMIC is on ebay closing in an hour or two for anyone interested http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=250456072001 I didnt have heaps of issues with the fan as i played with the mounting bracket by bending it etc, but it comes very close. If it turns out i need to swap the crossover from jjr then perhaps i may have to sand back the fan as said. Cheers guys!

curse you for going away effy! sooner or later you'll be tuning mine too mate... The skyline i mean, the sigmas off limits roight hahahaha props where props are due guys effy has made it his business to know skylines intimately so if your looking for someone who is in the know Guilt Toy is your man.

hahaha its rare im down those parts so it was a once off for sure... i keep spottin a few white gtt's round some on p's some not, a black one out front my work recently with a gtr front bar, and regularly spot UNLSHN round glendale edgeworth.

hey guys in leu of having this boost controller i fitted up my turbosmart valve t as the instructions say for this one. Anyway i set the boost all good and its driving fine but now my factory boost guage is not working all the time. Ive also done the FMIC install as you can see in this section. prior to the boost controller install i'd done the wire cut and ground for 7psi without the guage playing up. Is it an issue now that i'd removed the solenoid or should i be looking somewhere else all together? where / how does the factory boost guage get its feed / signal from???

Run the lower return pipe in through cutout and hook it up. I had some issues with mine but persistence with it and changing back to the old black rubber hose to connect the gap did the trick. Once thats done its just a matter of refitting the front bumper. Put her up in place and look at which sections require trimming back then, remove trime the section out using a one handed hacksaw style tool or something that doesnt require a bow style frame. It will get around the tricky corners and along edges with no fuss. The blade also should be suitable for soft woods or plastics not metal if you dont wanna be at it all day. Keep refitting, checking and try again until your happy with the fit. I wasnt too stressed as mine isnt staying on it very long so it was done quickly for sure. And here it is fitted Took us almost 8 hours with the two of us and the two kids in our way so i'd say 5-6 without the kids... Since the install ive noticed an improvement in mid and low range response. My factory boost guage is playing up and im not sure why, and of course i have yet to refit a washer bottle as the factory one no longer fits. The look is good but will certainly be much better when it's got the Top Secret bar on. Hope its helpful guys ;-)