StealthX

Yeah that would be the best one, I can't believe I didn't think of that! Would be the most effective too. Thanks dood! Any input on the wheels and/or break calipers?

Well there's about 350hp per turbo, so assuming everything's equal, you should see about 360-430kw if you are "maxing out the turbos" If it sees the street, then (like GTRNUR said), dog engagement gears are definitely NOT your friend lol PPG gearset or Hollinger if you have the coin (by the sound of the engine build, and knowing its a time attack car, I'd say you do )

I'm pretty sure the oil squirters are to keep the piston temps down, not so much for lubrication, so as long as your combustion temps are ok and your tune is safe, shouldn't have too much of a problem! Still, Nissan put them in there for a reason...

Hey bros! Got my new wheels on Saturday They are 18" x 8.5" +34 Koya Drift Teks with 235/50 rubber on them. The tyres aren't the best I know, even though I was recommended Achilles by Tech9Tyres, they speak highly of them, I've heard bad things about them... They came with the package so I didn't really have an option. However I've noticed a massive increase in traction, I can hold traction completely in 3rd gear now, and I've lost heaps of my understeer from those old shitty h/t khumos. That's prob due to the 20mm more i have on all corners. The only thing I havn't sussed out is the wet traction or the wear pattern (obviously). If they start to wear like crazy or the wet traction is worse than before, then I'll change them... For now they do fine, considering the car doesn't do any track work, its just a daily. There's no point in spending 2k on tyres if its never gonna see a track... The wheels sit 33mm further out Here's a profile view you can see they ever so slightly stick out the guards haha Ok need advice: What colour should I paint my break calipers? I'm thinking gold to match the weel nuts, or just black for a clean look. Would gold be a bit too rice/tryhard? Next on the cards is my coil overs. I seriously need to dump it now, should look good with those wheels IMO... Tell me what ya think!

What turbos? What's your expect HP figure? Whats it for? i.e. streeter, drag, circuit racer, hill climber?? What's your budget? I'd suggest dog gears, PPG or maybe OS Giken if you have heaps of coin to spend.

T51R SPL + RB26/30 /thread haha

hotbits. coilovers and suspension gear

Thanks doods! Figured out there is an output control designed for idle control specifically. The Stinger manual explains easily how to set it up and sh!t. Looks easy. So now I'm thinking the boost controller won't work as well, but an RB or SR item, just need to ring my tuner and ask him which one would work with EMS's system. (anyone know?) Looks easy enough from there... Does anyone know how the inputs for a typical idle control valve work? i.e. are there two terminals +ve and -ve? Or are they like a relay where there's positive, negative and a signal?

Yeah the Stinger had PWM 5V relay outputs, they can be configured with respect to RPM, load, throttle position and engine temp, so that's probably the way to go about it... The RB2X or SRXX IAC valve might be a little complex, I don't think the RB/SR ECU switches the valve straight on or off, i.e. would be hard to implement with a temp switch, the boost solenoid would be a bit easier, so I'll look into it. Pretty sure the temp switch is the best idea I've heard, thanks Scott, I'll call my tuner tomorrow, see if there's anything else I need to look out for... I'll post my progress here... Thanks guys!

Not this shit again... Of fvcking course it can be removed, but why do you want to? If you mention p plates laws, me and the rest of SAU will loose our shit. If you want a non turbo skyline, BUY A FVCKING NON TURBO SKYLINE!!!

Go 3", add in an extra resonator and you'll be fine. Best of both worlds. BTW, did a professional exhaust fabricator advise you to take out the cat on a street car? I'd be heading to a different exhaust shop if I was you...

Cheers Scott, any idea where I'd find one? Apart from buying a $400 boost controller just for the solenoid? Haha

^^^^ yes and no... Torque is the derivative of power with respect to RPM. I.e. Torque x RPM = power (sorta...), like talking about position is torque, then speed is power. Same sorta relationship. So it's pretty erroneous to talk about power when talking about acceleration, because power is a rate of energy usage, not a force.

Anyone?

Try this: 2nd or 3rd gear, cruise up to about 3-4k rpm, then slam your foot right down, floor it, with 315wkw and AWD, if you don't feel the massive pull, then you have problems my friend haha my car's only got about 200kw at all fours, and if I do the above, it sends me hunting for the other lane, the sudden rush of torque is insane. I think the problem is your power curve is very progressive, as mentioned the N1 turbos are designed for an almost linear power curve with no lag at all, so you don't feel an aggressive surge of power as most big single GTRs would...

Hey guys, just trying to make and install a cold start valve for my X-trail, I had to swap the throttle body from the fly-by-wire QR's, to a cable drive SR throttle body (for tuning purposes), now I have no cold start. The car is MAP sensored with an EMS Stinger controlling it all. I have no MAF or TPS sensors, just a MAP and a cable throttle. My warm idle is about 1100-1300 rpm depending on how hot the atmo temps are, and that's as low as I can go without it stalling upon cold start up, the cold idle is about 800rpm, if I give it a rev when cold, it'll drop too low and stall, and any load from the air con, power steering pump or alternator causes it to stall, so I almost have to hold the throttle open a little for the first 10 mins of driving (when at idle). As you can guess, it's fvcking annoying. What I'm trying to do is install a cold start valve in order to reverse these two idles (i.e. warm idle ~800-900rpm, and cold idle ~1200rpm). My car is MAP sensored, so I figure all I need is a small controlled leak in a vacuum line in order to bump the cold idle up a little. I just need to find a device, a small electronic air valve that's activated by a switch mounted in the cabin. Off = valve closed and 800rpm idle, On = small vacuum leak and ~1300rpm idle. Can I possibly use the factory RB2x IAC valve modified to suit? Or can anyone think of an electronics store that sells such a valve? Thanks... Cam.

Need a hand with the install Martin?

If you've got time, take the dump pipe off the back of the turbo and have a look at the state of your turbine wheel, see if it's ok, Then you can rule out the turbo from there, but I doubt it's blown, cos the exhaust note wouldn't have changed that much as you're describing... Have a look at your coolant and oil, if there's oil in your coolant or vice versa, it's prob a head gasket, but you'd rarely have a blown head gasket without shiploads of white smoke. Like I said before, either take it to a mechanic and get them to do a compression test or do it yourself, that's the most logical thing to do. Hope it's alright dude! Good luck.

Hmm no good man sorry to hear of your bad news... Does the turbo still make boost? Of your exhaust note changed significantly then my first guess would be the turbo has shat itself, but you say it still spools as normal... There's a myriad of things it could be, do a compression test, that'll tell ya of anythings wrong, if you get low compression in A certain cylinder, try adding a few mls of oil, if the compression increases with the oil, then the problem is your rings/pistons, if it stays the same, it's your valve train/head. Does the engine bay make any funny noises or is it just the exhaust that makes strange noises?

Hmm not to sure about that, from personal experience the smoking from the worn bearings is definitely white. I think it's blue when its a headgasket, but from an old turbo, it's white.

hmm white smoke is never good... If it smells 'sweet' it could be coolant (headgasket troubles) or it could be oil smoke (turbo bearings, headgasket again), or if it's cold, it's just condensation. I had the same problem, that turned out to be turbo bearings were dead, oil was seeping into the exhaust. It only smoked on idle, just after i started it up after being on for a while (still warm), or coming off the throttle and cruising, never smoked under boost or accelleration. If you take your dump pipe off, have a look at the turbine housing, if its covered in oil like this: then its probably the bearings. If the engine's cold when you see white smoke, and the smoke seems to evaporate after a few feet from your exhaust, then its just condensation. If it really worries you, do a compression and leakdown test to determine the health of the motor. <- This will tell you if it's headgasket or not. Can you upload a video of the car idling? We'll be able to tell if it's a missfire, headgasket etc...

Yah good spot, been trying to figure something out, but almost anything i try will involve a battery re-location, which is a paint in the cvnt... Should even be able to direct it down towards the ground and beside the radiator, and pick up cold(er) air from behind the bumper... Need some advice from people. What options do ya think I have for cold air intakes? This is what I have atm, knocked it up with $25 and 10 minutes, not meant to be a work of art: option 1: The red drawing, direct the piping over the battery and down to just behind the left headlight. option 2: the white drawling, direct the piping down, towards the ground note: option 2 will direct the air filter here: Any suggestions? Cam.

Dude, your ignition system has almost nothing to do with idle quality. Don't spend all that money on all that gear, cos aside from quality heat ranged plugs and factory or better coilpacks, you don't need any of the other shit. If you have misses and farts under boost, then you have an ignition problem, but rough idle isn't caused by a poor spark. the little bit of lump that you have at idle, could be cam overlap and is normal. do you have a video of it? The idle air control valve is what controls the idle speed, it can get gunky after a while, clean that out, Clean your AFM, if the AFM is dirty, it wont be able to read the proper amount of air entering the engine, O2 sensor has an input to idle quality, that could be rooted. Dunno about the starting problem, it can be caused by low compression in the motor, or a dieing fuel pump/clogged injectors. Can't really help ya there.

Yeah dude, most things in motorsports to be honest... You could take an admin role for CAMS or ANDRA or something, Something mechanical/design related for a performance workshop, Circuit Race teams (international?), Work for dealerships/actual car companies, Work for aftermarket parts manufacturer, involved in development/testing. etc... I don't know about your course, but mine is pretty much comprehensive. I do units ranging from calculus and materials and manufacturing to sport marketing, and motorsports etiquette etc... I'll have auto CAD experience, welding and manufacturing experience, mechanical experience, design, testing, engineering and even advertising experience when I'm done... Jobs aren't exactly available by the dozen, but if you stay with one place for a while, (work experience or small part time job), pretty soon you'll find yourself with a higher end job soon. Auto engineers are in need, but require skill and experience so hard to get.... But yeah, I haven't quite made up my mind yet...

Automotive industry may be crap, but no one's brought up motorsport? I'm studying automotive engineering at Uni, 2nd year, and love it. I've got a part time job at the movies that pays sorta well, and another job on the side working for the WASCC (wa sporting car club), who over sees/organizes all the events at barbagallo raceway, pretty much (aside from CAMS) it's the governing body of motorsport in WA... I love it, never gets boring at all, yes the jobs are few and far between, but if you can stumble into one, I think it's a great industry... Pay isn't too bad, not too many dickheads (circuit racing is the thinking man's motorsport so there aren't many bogan losers running around), has travel opportunities, exciting industry to be working in, has potential in the next 5-10years etc... No complaints here... Just a few cents worth from me