StealthX

There are two types of people in the world, those who have RB30 bottom ends, and those who will. Do it, sounds like you're pretty handy with mechanicals, and that PDF file on RB30 conversions that's floating around is pretty dam helpful! Pretty sure it's in the rb30 disussion thread. Good luck dude!

Anyone?

Does you car blow black smoke and stall/run like shit at idle? Also check your wastegate actuator, it's that rod thing on the side of the turbo's hot side, check the rid hasn't popped off or anything.

ITT: epic hook ups!

Hey kids, would this sort of set-up be ok? In terms of legalities and safety... It's a vented box that's held down by a strap, as you can see in the pics, the strap is mounted around the baby seat mount. Tis a dry cell battery. Still need to purchase the cabling, isolator and fuse. Look like an ok spot?

Shame your not in WA mate... Niice car...

R34 is usually red, r34 n1 motor is that millenium jade colour I think, dunno about the others, but they generally do mean something yeah...

"ride off"??

LAWL!! you got nothing to complain about: Top: my QR25de rods - im pushing 10psi and 280hp through those :| Bottom: SR20de rods

Thanks mate I'll try some dealerships then, I might just be looking for a PCV valve maybe? Any other advice? B U M P

Considered ceramic coating? Although it's not a circuit racing application, my turbo bag works pretty well, but the heat still radiates out from the dump and CHRA. What other heat management do you have? i.e. heat wrap on the dump etc? Also define "work on the car"? Cos I doubt you'd be able to do anything on the exhaust side for a good 30 mins after, or do you mean the entire engine bay is too hot?

Hey forum Couple weeks ago I installed an idle control valve, it's running from a vacuum port on the manifold and uses a 5/8 heater/vacuum hose. The unit is a bosch two wire PWM. I have boost escaping through it, making a funny noise - I'm confident this is what the noise is - does anyone know where I can buy a one way valve to put into the line to shut when I reach boost? What am I looking for and where can I buy one!? Thanks! Cam.

Just mash the key bro! It won't be that much of an issue... It'll either start or it won't! That's how you'll figure out what's right or wrong. Maybe unclip the injectors and crank a few times to prime oil pressure, and double check all the harness connectors. As for coolant system, I don't have much experience with RBs, but maybe try to run the engine (when it starts) with the rad cap off to bleed all the air out of the system, that worked for every car I've had in the past... That's a tidy workshop area you got there, jealous!

Woah... no! You get what you pay for with anything in this game... Save up for a genuine brand one (Greddy, HKS, Apex'i) and until then, just lift the right foot a little

Yeah agreed, Nissan has always been in touch with practicality OP, why do you think this is the end of Nissan? Clearly this isn't a performance car, If I wanted a new Nissan with performance value, I'd buy a GTR, or a 370z, not this. lol If anything, this is Nissan at it's best, awesome engineering and design.

So do they have more blades or less? Can someone confirm? Are they same sorta thing as the GTX40/42/45 turbos that they already sell? Any significant difference in price for the average Joe?

It looks like a bush bearing t3/t4 sorta thing... Got no info on the exhaust side apart from it being a t4, which is plenty big enough for that power, and a 70mm compressor wheel, and a .5 ar on that side, Which is a little small, so it would lead me to believe it's a turbo designed for lower boost on a big engine, so 20psi would be getting a little past it's efficiency range... 300kw shouldn't be much of a problem though...

Where are you buying it from? Sounds like a cheap knock off, that gay 'stage 2' shit is a dead giveaway... 3076 or 3582, Garret ballbearing GT series or nothing IMO... (or hks of course)

RB30whileitsout. Done.

French toast

Dude, that's sick! doubles as a strut brace by the looks of it! I wonder if it lacks strength because it has hollow cavities for oil cooling? Imagine taking a tight corner, putting stress on the strut towers and then it cracks, pissing oil all over the top of your engine hahah

What's your power goal? Injectors and shit depend on that. You'll need to mod your water lines cos as far as I know the stock water lines don't fit the Garrett turbos, oil feed should be fine. I'm pretty sure the dump fits, someone else will have to confirm this though. You'll need a spacer on the stock manifold, 10mm works well from what I hear. The compressor housing hits the manifold otherwise. Bigger studs on the T3 flange are in order too... Nistune or Power FC are your best bets. Nisune is the best IMO, easy as to install and program, but power FC is a more flexible computer that allows for full engine control. good luck dude!

It's your money at the end of the day, you're the customer! His theory has grounds, i.e. less compression and more timing, but in reality, higher compression gives a much better feel when cruising around in vacuum...

First thing's first: then = than. I.e. Safe limit other THAN the standard 7 psi. Kthnx.