StealthX

Learn some taste dude, Amps/Capitol has better music than most clubs these days. Not like all this r'n'b and hip hop flith that people call dance music. p.s. AM bar for me anyday...

First thing's first upgrade those injectors! 260cc would max out before 300hp, which is no use to a GT30 turbo. Go for 500 or 750cc depending on how much power you want to make. Don't get a T28 flanged turbo, go T3, skylines hate small turbos. What's the deal with your turbo at the moment? Are you saying its a highflowed stock turbo with the CHRA of a GT3076? If so, just order the front and rear housings to suit, and make your own genuine GT3076r! Get the .82A/R external gate rear housing. As for wastegate, 44mm Tial should do the trick, Tial gear is cheap and good quality from the states - take advantage of the good aussie dollar atm!

Nah just rock up in your fully sick uleh habib silver chains and pop your collar for mass cred.

Little more complicated than that. I'd recommend genuine Garret turbos, but that depends on your budget. All comes down to how much power he wants to make, on an RB20 a KKR430 would be good for about 400hp flat out, if he want's less than that, i'd suggest something like a GT3071. Give us some info on the motor? I'm guessing RB20? Any other mods?

herrrp derrrp... you forgot the unit flat brim hat, gotta wear one of those too.

T51r for sure! What about a KAI rather than a SPL? The SPL will be heaps laggier and the KAI would be much more efficient (i.e. less boost for the same power, cooler air charge -> more ignition advance = more power. KAI = more midrange, SPL = only top end. T04zs are an old design and are pretty lazy, there's better options these days.

Maybe try an oil filter sandwich from eBay. I use a cheap no brand one on my car, has been fine for 30,000kms. They sit between the oil filer and the block, and have 2-3 1/8 npt ports to attach oil pressure gauges and feed lines. Search for "oil filter sandwich" and look for one for your CA. Oil return must return oil to the sump, so tap a hole just above the oil level, make sure it seals!!! Common spot to leak from, caused me epic headaches... Water lines can be taken from the radiator hoses too if thats an option, but for a RWD car like yours, the heater hoses are probably easier. You can find adapters on eBay too. Good luck dude!

Yeah odds are the dump -> turbo join was leaking. Maybe the flange of the dump was warped, is was a cheap part... p.s. how'd it sound? shit?

Sorry to point out, but so many of your posts seem condescending and intimidating. Chill brah! OP, what's the specs of your fuel system and turbo?

Pretty sure it would've been an exhaust leak. Most likely the turbo -> dump connection. Those bolts are common to rattle themselves loose, I reckon 1 or 2 of those might've been loose, then when you put the dump back on you tightened them up better. Do you remember any of the bolts being loose when you put the stock dump back on? Maybe have a look at the turbo intake piping and the cooler piping, might have a leak. Does the car idle and boost fine? no missing or anything?

yep no probs.

EMS stinger FTW!! Lol

That's not that surprising is it?

Society is f**ked mate. Now way around it, the government doesn't actually care about us citizens, just like the police don't actually care about our safety, all they care about is money in their pockets and getting re-elected in the next term. Why do you think endless amount of money is being poured into aboriginal welfare and so-called 'road safety' in this state? Because average Joe and Jane see these things and thinks: wow, this government is doing something for us, I might vote for them next time! Coons and lower class people are forever winging about the stolen generation and their own hardships in order to get more government benefits, while us middle class hard workers and our opinions get forgotten about.

You wont need to adjust AFRs from a cold air intake like you are planning. So long as the air flow meter isn't moved or modified, it'll still read the same, the 'ram' affect of this mod will be minimal. How many times do you expect get the chance to drive your car above 200km/h anyway? Not worth it. Get the Cobb tuner and some adjustable wastegates, and up the boost, that way you'll have gains everywhere in the rev range, not just at 200km/h+. Alot less hassle too...

Alot of work for minimal gains. first port of call for any performance turbo car is an exhaust system, then increase boost pressure and some sort of tuning device. An R35 is no different.

Why not? Upgrades = Better events = more likely to host other events = more people into WA = more tourism = stronger economy + more job opportunities + better motorsport scene in WA. 20,000 people @ minimum $50 entry fee, that's over a million dollars straight into the pocket of the WA economy, show me another sporting event that is classed as a 'failure', and still rakes in that much revenue? Should I continue? Tax dollars have been spent on far worse things in WA, think along the lines of speed cameras and aboriginal welfare services. I've worked at every race meeting and tuning day this year and it's almost painful watching the numbers dwindle. One tuning day this year there was 4 cars on the track from 9am-4pm, it costs f**k all for a years membership to the WASCC and a CAMS license, theres 20+ tuning days a year, I know if my car was up to it, I'd be flogging round the track like mad at every opportunity!

QFT. I love it how the dumb gosh darn general public are jumping on the band wagon blaming Barbagallo and consequently the WASCC for how poorly the event ran. We were only doing the best we could do with what we had i.e. facilities/access roads. At the end of the day its the government that's causing all these events (V8s, last Sunday, HQ nats, super trucks, IPC etc..) to be a let down, cos they're the one's refusing to release funding to upgrade things. I stand by my last comment, Barbagallo was never designed to be a world class venue, it's just made out to be cos it's the biggest (read: only) in WA. Anyone else read that article in the paper?? General Public winging etc...

WASCC. (WA sporting car club) Read the sticky in the WA section about getting into Motorsport.

Should be on the pipe that feeds the injectors, can't tell from the picture...

Not sure about you guys, but every dyno (three) that I've taken my car to, the tuner has given me an exclusion of liability form to sign...

Air in the cooling system. Specifically the heater system, was the heater on when you bled it?

QFT. My old cat did this.

Does it idle and boost fine? i.e. no black smoke or missing? Auto or manual?

Dude you have your terminology all wrong. The front/cold side wheel is the compressor wheel, thats on the 'silver' side of the turbo that the intercooler piping connects to, and the turbine or hotside/rear wheel is located on the other side, routed in the exhaust. No, you can't chop and change parts of a turbo, the best you can do for an upgrade is put a different exhaust housing on, for example I have a GT2860rs garrett turbo, and it's got a .64 A/R (small) housing on the exhaust side, and I'm upgrading to a (larger) .86 A/R housing. In short, it's a better flowing housing that makes more power in the higher rev range. If you were to put a new compressor wheel on, you'd need to modify or fit a new compressor housing and get the rotating assembly balanced too, and this would allow the turbo to make more power at the same boost level. Slightly more laggier, because the bigger wheel has more rotational intertia (i.e. needs more energy from the exhaust to make it move), but the up-side is the bigger wheel moves more air, and more air + more fuel = more power. But if you already have a small rear housing on the turbo, you'll be fighting a loosing battle, because the engine can only flow as much air as the exhaust can flow out. In short, save your effort and money, and just upgrade the whole turbo... p.s. real men don't smoke rubber, real men don't drive like wankers on the road.