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Everything posted by StealthX
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Yeah was considering sacrificing my self for this scum, but I had too much faith in the justice system...
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Sau Movie Night 3 - 3d Resident Evil: Afterlife
StealthX replied to WYTSKY's topic in Archived Events
BWAAAIINNNZZ! om nom nom nom nom -
Hey guys. 'tis with a very angry tone that I type this tonight... Story goes: I was driving on my way to work at about 6:00 tonight, I live in Sorrento, work in Warwick - 5km drive. Turning onto Warwick road from Marmion ave, I notice this asswipe in a VX SS commodore sniffing so far up my ass, that I couldn't even see his headlights. I was in a fairly calm and collected mood at this time, so I just chilled and travelled at the same speed as the car next to me (so he couldn't get past), about 70km/h, in a 70 zone... After a few hundred meters and a heap of cursing behind me later, the car next to me turned off and the dickhead screemed past me with all his stock LS1 power, no indicators, and off towards about 120km/h (conservatively), as he drove past I shook my head at him and he saw me and replied back with a finger. Later on we pulled up behind a few cars at the lights next to eachother, and he proceeded to eye me off and hurl abuse ("you maggot", "phucking tool", "pull up ahead mate!" as if to fight me) at me. I ignored him with the window up. A little further he started getting more agitated as I ignored him, finally I put down my window and said: "stop driving like a dickhead, I'm just trying to get to work mate". To this reply he threw (wait for it) 2 beer bottles out of his car, towards my car hitting in causing this damage: 3 dents and a scratch. VERY obvious damage. He was obviously drunk by the style of his driving and his speech. At this point I snapped, and got angry at him, he slowed down and blocked my way (I needed to change lanes to turn off up ahead) we exchanged words, all I said was "I'm just trying to get to phucking work, there's no need to fight over shit like this you farking meathead", "I've got your license details" and "leave me alone you dickhead I don't wanna fight you". To all this he replied "pull over you top bloke, you're dead" death threats, intent to harm etc.. After this I dropped the clutch and pulled 1st and 2nd gear to get in front to turn into my street, end of story. I had work obviously so I needed to leave, i.e. couldn't hang around and find the bottle he threw, or call the cops there and then. I reported the incident as soon as I finished work, at Joondalup. A very nice officer helped me out and gave me advice, I didn't proceed and make a statement, there were no independent eye witnesses or solid evidence apart from my word and the damage on my car, so realistically there's no chance in hell of it standing up in court, cos if they chase him up, he'll almost certainly deny it. Now how f**ked up is society that me, an innocent safe driver, can be abused and have my property damaged, and a f**kwit can get away with things like that. It just happens that today is exactly 12 months from when I lost my license (for excessive demerit points - I lost 8 in one go for no seatbelt and on the phone, when i was driving through a CARPARK, along with a few other small things). I can't believe we live in a society where such things can happen and people can get away with it. FARK defense lawyers, FARK the courts, FARK the justice system FARK the bogan scum cvnts who do this sort of shit. The car is a Black/Dark purple VX SS Commodore with the rego: 1 DEK 808, 100% sure of that. The driver was a big bogan looking dude (surprise surprise) with heavy build, light short hair and a beard, tattos on both arms. If you see this cockhead, be sure to lob something blunt and heavy at his car for me, parked or not. /rant.
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Okay I stand corrected on a few things i.e. carb things, but for the record Mad Max, I don't just have the book smarts and no practical experience, I work for a racing team lol. I've built and tuned a QR25 turbo in my x-trail a ITB big cam NA 4A-GE and Formula SAE car/engine, had a honda CBR motor and a MoTeC M800, and I'm saying that Mad Max's methods are VERY primitive and backyard. Don't wanna fly my own flag here, but I reckon I sort know what I'm talking about... They (the methods) might work, but not half as well as they could. But I do apologise for sounding a little forward in my argument! Soz dude.
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Right on... Once you have the gear (laptop, software, wideband and AFR guage and a free section of highway) it actually not that hard! The EMS software I'm using is really user friendly too (:
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Yeah but that's easy to say when your car makes 450kw mate! haha I'm the first person to add 30hp to my dyno graph above, cos it was on HD's dyno hahaha My car might only make 223hp there, but im still convinced its a fast car. I've driven some pretty half decent cars around Barbagallo (mk1 esky with 350hp turbo cosworth, 300hp rb25 s13), and my car isn't that dissimilar in feel and accelleration... There's def something wrong with that dyno haha Maybe it needs a re-calibration? 'Street-tuning-yourself-and-using-your-butt-dyno' is the new black... lol That was me about 5 minutes ago
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Strange dude... My tune at the moment was done by Andrew. It's got its flaws its not perfect, he only spent a few runs tuning my car originally, but I trust Andrew, never had a problem with his tune/work in over 30,000kms. Here's my most recent graph from his tune: Even with weird AFRs like that its still safe and hasn't caused me any problems... I'd encourage you to give it (tuning) a go yourself. (I'll lend ya my lambda sensor and AFR gauge if ya really want!) Depends on the Nistune software (how easy it is to use), but my EMS software wasn't hard at all. Since then I've done a bit of my own tuning, tuned out a rough spot around 3k rpm and -10mmhg vacuum and i'm attempting to tune out another one at about 2k rpm and similar load. The poor fuel economy could be caused by decelleration fuel cut or maybe your cruising AFRs are too rich. I've been working for the WA sporting car club today @ barbagallo today, and I've seen numerous cars with Hyperdrive stickers on them, so I doubt Andrew would've given your car back without it having a decent enough tune...
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Got any spare exhaust wrap lying around? I wrapped my o2 sensor's wiring in fiberglass wrap (lengthways, i.e. use 1m of wrap for 1m of line/wire.) and its been fine thus far! 30,000kms in...
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Yeah, same goes for all states, they will inspect the entire car...
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baaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahaha phark! where do I start! You really shouldn't be criticizing other people's advice mate. I could pick flaw after flaw in what you've just suggested... 1. 290* cam CAN'T be run on an injected engine. Why not? That's completely wrong dude, and why would a carb suit a cam with such duration but not a EFI set-up? A carb with a cam that size would actually run WORSE! 2. Clearly you've never driven a turbo car before. This REALLY made me laugh.3. Your best suggestion of using a series 2 VCT head is wrong. Ever heard of an RB26 or an RB25 neo? 4. At power levels below 250hp, a larger throttle body isn't gonna do anything. Your throttle is almost never going to be a restriction until you are reaching upwards of 400hp. 5. The stock computer only reads signal from the o2 sensor when cruising and light throttle loads. So a wideband sensor isn't gonna do jack for peak power, nor is it gonna help you with tuning unless you have data logging, AFR guage, a dyno and a set of knock ears... 6. Adjusting the fuel with a FPR is one of the most crude ways to adjust fuel injection I've ever heard of. Do you know what injector pulse width is? That's what determines how much fuel goes into a motor, not the pressure at the rail... 7. lol! are camshafts part of the drivetrain now are they? And how exactly is a lighter camshaft gonna give you more power? lol8. The size of your carb has NOTHING to do with how an engine revs. Ever heard of a rev limiter? That's what makes a car rev high or not. Adding a big carb doesn't allow your engine to rev higher lol 9. hahahaha! so you think a carburettor is superior technology over an ECU and a set of injectors? Injection allows better cold start, better fuel -> cylinder distribution, better cruising efficiency, the list goes on! Carbs really are technology of the 60s bro, keep up with times.[edit] quote cropped to shorten the post.
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Turbo X-trail
StealthX replied to StealthX's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
my car's AWD dude. -
Fuel pump?
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My Sr20 Build (part 2) Twin Scroll
StealthX replied to juggernaut1's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
It's amazing what one can do with money... -
How To Install Walbro Gss-341 In An R34?
StealthX replied to Hanaldo's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
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Misfiring On High Boost
StealthX replied to ReflextioN's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Isn't that exactly the same thing I said, just worded differently? i.e. too much boost blows out the spark, cos the gap between the electrodes is too large, hence the spark is not intense enough to jump the gap before the air blows it out. -
Hmm fair enough! I stand corrected That is sorta true as a general rule though right? Solid lifters are more efficient and more rev happy than hydraulic types?
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Sorry bro, but for someone who proudly says they 'know about engines and mechanics', you don't really know diddly squat. A 'chip' won't do f**k all, listen to our advice, regardless of who you get this 'chip' you speak of from... If by a 'chip' you mean a device that allows a tuner to add timing/fuel then it's almost wasted money in terms of the gains you get for an NA RB25. You can't just add more fuel and expect more power, and the factory ignition maps will give you enough power, the only thing you could do in terms of tuning is advance the timing by a few degrees to run 98RON, but it's gonna give you less than 10wkw difference... Bigger fuel system won't do anything unless you have the air to compensate, and you won't get enough air from an NA setup to warrant extra headroom from the fuel system. The factory system will do fine until you start spending upwards of 15k on headwork (BIG cams, massive porting), stroker motors, lightened internals, big comp ratios etc... And as for the thermo fan, I wouldn't go as far as to say they are 'radiator munchers', many big power RBs still use the stock fans with no dramas, dunno where you've pulled that from... And yes, the more you do to an NA, the worse your drive-ability will become. Things like lightened flywheels (harsher engagement), underdrive pulleys (need a raised idle, more tendency to over heat in bad traffic), big exhausts and phat cams (loss of low down power) will all decrease your drive-ability. The best you can do for a street driven NA RB, is a free flowing exhaust, cold air intake (not just a shitty pipe and a pod, but a proper airbox - sounds like you've got this sorted ) and a lightened fly and some nice midrange cams (240-260* and 9-10mm lift). P.S. I hope you realise how much of a job it is to 'raise your compression'. lol So many people make the mistake of thinking its an easy job...
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stroked 2.7 RB25 would be good, but remember (unless you use a neo 34 head) it's still gonna have hydraulic lifters, and wont be as rev happy/efficient as a 26 head. That said both options make great power, there's really nothing to win one over the other... considered a 26/30 or 25/30?
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Very cool. But dam he loves himself... It's an American thing...
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I'm involved in the FSAE car from ECU in Perth... Have been for the last 2 years, such a good competition, loving it!
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It's a Sentra. B14 by the looks of it. The US's version of our pulsar/N platform. FWD 4cyl small car. The B15 series come with a QR25DE, same motor as my X-Trail REALLY popular in the US, commercial made turbo kits, used as race cars, huuge car clubs etc...
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f**k, moar ACA/Today Tonight ammo... Good form by the Justice though, prob wasn't dangerous driving at all...
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Misfiring On High Boost
StealthX replied to ReflextioN's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
haha all good bro For future reference, what's happening is the spark is too weak to jump across the gap in your plugs, and the higher boost level is 'blowing out' the spark, and misfiring. When you gap the plugs down the gap is smaller and the spark has a shorter distance to travel Good luck dood. -
Misfiring On High Boost
StealthX replied to ReflextioN's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
ok then, don't take my advice. gapping your plugs should do the trick, but if not, then it may be your coils. Even though you ruled them out, try wrapping them in electrical tape so they don't earth on the head, sometimes the insulation wears out... -
Misfiring On High Boost
StealthX replied to ReflextioN's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
try gapping your plugs down bro.