StealthX

'My girlfriend asked me I've ever pissed in the shower. I said: "Yeah a couple of times..." She replied: "That's disgusting! You're sick!" "It's not my fault! These things happen when you're taking a sh!t!'

Yummy, thanks dude! looks like im headed for some epic fitment

Hey kids, just after some info on drift tek offsets. I'm buying 18 x 8.5 drift teks soon, I wanna know what offsets they come in. From their website (koya) they state that the 8.5" wheel that I'm getting is only available in +34, this means that the new wheels will sit 33mm further out, as the factory wheels are 6.5, +42mm. This is good news, as my wheels will fit epically well But the guy who I've been talking with @ tech9tyres said they might have some trouble with fitting them i.e. they will sit IN too far, however this was before he checked out the factory wheels... So my question is are there any other offsets that 8.5" Drift teks are made in other than +34 that he might've ordered for me? If they only come in +34 this is awesome news, but if there's some gay offset that he's chosen for me, I wanna know about it before tomorrow as the order processes tomorrow morning! Thanks guys.

Nice car dude! good luck with the sale!

Slightly retarded? Full retarded! "You went full retarded, and you should never go full retard man." haha but seriously OP, give it a wait for a bit and save some money... Unless you spy a car that you def want right now (i.e. that'll be sold to someone else), that's one of a kind, otherwise, leave it for a while.

I rest my case...

Good luck 1) affording an R34 GTR and 2) paying insurance for either. Are many 34 GTRs below 50k these days?

Depends what you're talking about. If you mean "turbo gear" as in complete engine, box, breaks, suspension etc... then no, it wont need anything in the way of emissions testing, just an engineer's report for the conversion. But if you put all the RB25DET gear onto an RB25DE (injectors, manifold, turbo, dump, ECU etc...), then yes, you'll need an engineer's report and an emissions test. This is because regardless of the fact that an RB25DE is almost identical to a DET, you are still modifying the original engine with performance gear, thus altering its emissions. I see where you're coming from, but the fact is, the stock cat is made for sock power levels, not the ~350kw it's probably making now. And apart from being super restrictive, its possibly almost 20 years old depending on the model of '26 it is, and won't be working anywhere near the way it did when the GTR/stagea came off the showroom floor... Any decent cat from a known brand will do fine so long as its compliant, if it comes marketed as 'euro 3' compliant, then it is, the only thing that differs, is it's flow rate. i.e. Performance cats are still VERY efficient and almost any aftermarket cat is better than the stock piece of shit. As for other people's experiences, I can't help you here, I have no experience with modified R26s, only my x-trail hahah

lol dude you need to give us more info than that, I love people that ask questions with gosh darn all background info... What car? What engine? Is it tuned or not? How much power/boost? How many kms? Healthy motor? -Standard cat won't do the trick... If I was you I'd get your hands on a euro complaint cat or similar quality (3' high flow cats can still pass emissions - just ask me!) depending on the age of your car (1989 R32 RB20 wont need as tight arse emissions output as say an 2002 R34 RB25 neo...). Make sure the cat is located nice and close to the turbo, less than 2m, so it heats up nice and quick and works best. Put it in the stock position or closer for the best chance of passing. An exhaust shop should have no problem with this, I'd recommend Shawn @ Carline Mufflers Balcatta. -Get the tuner to tune your microtech for emissions testing, Andrew from Hyperdrive knows such tricks. If it means you have to have two maps tuned, to run one for emissions (i.e. a tight arse map with a slightly lean tune and retarded ignition timing) and one for normal driving (i.e. a more agressive tune). All it should take is 5 mins and a laptop to swap between the two when you get home from the testing. -Make sure all the factory emissions gear is in place (evap canister etc.) and you have fresh-ish plugs and clean injectors. At the end of the day it all comes down to the tune and the cat IMO. Everything else helps, but talk to a tuner about your requirements. As for where the testing is done, ring the DPI and find out, they know all. Good luck bro!

English mate? lol Are you trying to say 2nd gear doesn't go in?

Ahh... Yeah man... Rb engines (for the most part) are all injected... There's only one version that's carburetted, an rb24s, in some random jap small car. Any engine that doesn't have a carburetor, uses fuel injectors and an ECU, to inject fuel. Pretty much every petrol engine from the mid80s, is injected. LPG isn't really the best option tho IMO, you hardly save much money anyway... Limits the amount of power you make, saps some power from you, adds weight to your car, and they use more fuel anyway, so you spend more at the bowser...

Battery, alternator or starter. Sounds like the former. Your starter needs a lot of power to crank your engine over, sometimes there will be enough charge to power the fuel pump and dash lights, but then not enough to crank the engine. Charge it or get a new battery...

Racing cats? Is there even such a thing? Race cars don't need cats?? Anyway, welcome!

idungetit... How does it vent? Am i missing something or is that SINGLE picture not descriptive enough? I cant see any ports or openings where the vented air would exit the system??

Sorry bro but don't listen to this. This will only happen if you're coolant is at normal running temp, otherwise, you wont loose any coolant, won't burn ya etc... Do it with the engine sorta cold, if you can take the rad cap off without coolant boiling everywhere, then its safe to run the engine to check for bubbles. Bubbles in the rad means you have coolant leaking into the cylinders/air entering in the coolant system... Side note: pretty sure one of the water lines for the turbo runs around the back of your motor, check that its all still fine and dandy. Are you leaking coolant/oil on the ground? What does this smoke smell like?

Post in rotary thread on sau - apex seals out

Don't bother swapping engines brother, waste of time and money. Listen to us, sell the car, buy an n/a variant and drive that till you're off your Ps... And for f**ks sake, don't do the n/a conversion then drive it around, its still illegal and you've already had heaps of dealings with the cops, so to save your insurance sky rocketing, play it safe. Personally I think you're a dickhead for driving with no license, getting caught and STILL driving around, if you crashed/injured someone, you wouldve been f**ked, no 3rd party insurance to cover anything... But I bet you wouldn't have thought about that... Off topic: why is every new driver obsessed with having a powerful car as their FIRST car these days? I had an AE92 corolla for my first car, and it was f**king perfect for learning on, I wouldn't dream of owning an r34 gtt as my first car, it's bullshit dangerous for a car like that to be in the hand of a new driver lol not to mention, how much do you pay for insurance??? :|

Done a compression test lately? I.e. Is the motor healthy? Do you have an aftermarket engine management??

adjusting driver's seat - apex seal out. thisisfun

Cool man, that's exactly what we are doing too, just tine down the attacks, regardless of what people say 99% of those sorta comments are given in good humor, don't take shit so seriously, laugh it off. But be safe, we're sick of dickhead drivers giving us a bad name as car enthusiasts. 6k rpm in 5th gear is some serious speed that road tyres wouldn't handle very well, one tiny mistake can kill at 100km/h, let alone more than double! What did another skyline owner tell you was the problem btw?

Haha are you kidding?? All seems like flaming/attacks to me... I bet if you didn't have those quips in your posts, everyones reaction wouldve been slot more friendly... For conversations purposes, check your intercooler piping for leaks/splits/blows, 6k with alot of load will put the engine under heaps of stress, you might've blown an intercooler pipe and now the AFM can't read how much air is in the system, your engine will run like shit because of it. May or may not cause your missing, as mentioned check your coil packs too

Lol mate you came on here being ill-informed abot a subject, and thinking you know all, and you expect everyone to lay down red carpet for you? Before you start flaming people saying we don't know shit, remember why you came on here, to learn more and listen to other people. There's no point in asking for info, then being a dick to the people who give you said info... Lol My advice, sell your gtr and give it to someone who deserves such a car...

250km/h for 10 minutes? start work @ 3 in the morning? I call BS. for conversation's sake, a red hot exhaust is fairly normal. I've seen manifolds, turbine housings and dump pipes glow red, but if its anywhere further down the exhaust than that, then you have some serious heat, and a glowing exhaust is the LEAST of your problems...

Get a decent boost source. teeing a line from the evap canister is not a good way to control boost, and is most likely the source of your problem. Use the nipple off the compressor housing or get a hose barb welded into your intercooler piping.

Yeah you is correct. 1 atmosphere = 0.98 bar 1 kg/cm2 = 0.98 bar 1 bar = 14.503 psi = 100kpa 1 psi = 6.89 kpa