Jay95R33

Hmm, sounds like your latch is stuffed Next time you get it to open you might have to clean the latch and give it a lube up. Check everything else while your there too. J

Stuff the smokers, that's a great idea you've got there Brazen I'll see what I can do about making a panel to sit in there nice. J

Not good Sounds to me that the switch that tells the car that the hatch is open or closed is faulty. From what I've seen the hatch has two sensors. The switch that says that the hatch is totally closed, and a switch in the latch to say that the hatch is part open which then tells the motor to pull it shut. Soo, I would say that the 'totally shut' switch is stuffed, and the motor is pulling hard on the hatch cause it thinks it's part open etc.. I would disconnect the battery (or find the fuse for the rear hatch motor), this will kill the power to the rear motor then you should be able to open the rear hatch with the key manually. One open you'll have to find the switch that is playing up, or, disconnect the 'totally shut' switch until you find the problem. It just means that you might loose the auto pull shut until it's all fixed. It's pretty tight in the back hatch door. Hope you get it sorted out. J

That looks damn good. Good work. J

Thanks Zane - looks pretty good. I was thinking that if I get one I might use clear silicon to stick the pod mount on. So no holes etc.. Cheers J

You can do it, but it's time consuming.. Basically you have to demux the audio and video, convert them both to 25fps then remux them. Best thing to do it go to http://www.videohelp.com/ have a look at their guides, download the software and give it a try. Good luck, J

I've got a set of 23/45/17's on the 17x7.5 inch rims. Grip is good (but I have 4wd ), wear is very good and the road noise from them is about on par wth other tyres I've had. Pretty damn good for the price I say. J

Hmm, yeah you'd want something that came on quickly but you also need to factor in the higher drive train losses of the auto box and 4wd system so you can reach your goal power. J

If it is a trust side mount it should be around 100-120mm thick.. They are very thick !! It'll also have TRUST stamped on the bottom of it. If you can get one for $220 grab it cause they are about $1000 new !!! Second hand they go upwards of $400. J P.S. - they work well, I've got one on the Stagea

Yep, very possible. If you've configured your subs wrong then they could put a big load on the amp eg. two 4ohm subs in parallel will give you a 2 ohm load, so you have to make sure the amp is 2 ohm stable.. If it's not the subs will try and pull too much current and the amp will cut out. There's also a thermal cut out in most amps, too hot and it's switch off, so if you put the amp in a small spot with not much space for air movement and you crank it up it could shut down. J

LOL - it was very funny.. We just couldn't belive it. When it was on the dyno and doing the runs I remembered that I wanted to check it out for leaks, but we couldn't find anything. Even with a sethascope (sp?) we couldn't hear any leaks. Then I put the bonnet down to try and keep the engine noise down a bit and then the noise came back straight away. We eventually narrowed the noise down the the front right hand side of the bonnet (where the air box is) and when I got the tuner to pop the bonnet (and it popped up 5-10 mm to the latch) the noise stopped straight away. About then is when my mate and I turned to each other and at the same time we said "oh get f^%#ed !!!" J

Just about laptops in cars. There's a heap of good software that is basically made for incar laptops. Here's one good example; http://www.mediaengine.org/index.php The great thing about laptops in cars is GPS navigation - for a pretty cheap price if you look in the right places...

If you've got a spare DIN spot try and get yourself a cheap indash screen. Or even a cheap indash TV But the common sizes for indash are 6 and 7 inch. I think the 9 inch ones are the roof mounted ones. J

LOL I kow that sound very well... Very funny actually.. I swore that I had a leak in the pipework somewhere, it haunted me for months.. Then when it went up on the dyno for a few runs I got him to hold it at boost while I tried to find the leak. It was frustrating cause with the bonnet up the noise would disapear, bonnet down it was there again... Me and my mate where scratching our heads.. Then we found out what it was. With the bonnet down the air getting sucked in through the bonnet crack then swirling into the stock airbox scoop was making the air whissle !!! As soon as we lifted the bonnet about 4-5mm it would change the way the air was being sucked in and the noise stopped... It had me frustrated for months and it was something so damn simple J

G'day Paul, Yep, works well for that kind of stuff (watching without burning). And instead of having to save a 4.4gig dvd movie, you can just backup it to Xvid which is only 700meg The unit runs off of 5v DC (comes with it's own AC adaptor), but doesn't come with a DC-DC adaptor, but I just popped down to DickSmith and bought a DC-DC adaptor that plugs into the cig lighter for $25. The adpator has switchable voltage outputs (3, 4.5, 6, 9v) and the unit works perfect on both 6 and 4.5 volts. The things I'd like to change about the unit is that you can make up a play list to play a heap of MP3's or movies which is cool, but once you turn the unit off the play list is lost (it's not saved), and when your watching a movie and you turn it off it doesn't start from where you were etc.. It does have something about resuming, but I'll have to look into it further. It's firmware upgradable and they are bring out new firmware every 3-4 months so it can play other types of media too - the last firmware upgrade let it play WMA files So maybe they'll make it so the playlists can be saved I use this unit heaps in the lounge room and over mates places too. Really easy to set up and with the mega high res video output and the digital audio output it damn great J

How about a player that will play AVI, MPG, DIVX, DVD, MP3, and a heap more stuff. Is small but comes with a 40/60gig hard drive, outputs all types of format (HDTV, PAL, NTSC), doubles as a portable hard drive, and costs (with the hard drive) $310.. Well that's what I got anyway, the thing is awsome. Check it out : http://www.airlinktek.com/english/prod_mg25.htm Do a search on 'mediagate mg 25' there's a few places that are selling them now. I got mine from www.itbox.com.au http://www.itbox.com.au/catalog/product_in...a49d2fafd8c96c9 J

This is gunna be a great thread. Would be great if we can get a parts list together and a 'how to' for the tricky bits that pop up in the swap over If it takes off maybe we should sticky it ?? J

Sounds like a nice setup there SK. Nakamichi desks are nice and clean. And you can't go past MB Quart's. You gunna put 4 15 inch subs in the back If I had a spare DIN space I'd go straight for the 3 x 52mm gauge mounts you can get. They look pretty good (look stockish) and the little thieving ba$tards can't do a smash and grab I mounted 3 x 52mm gauges in the R33 like that and I was really happy how it turned out. J

Good stuff Term, be good to see how it goes. You gotta love the bolt in stuff. Easy as. J

I used to get about 330 per tank when I worked 5 mins from home. It pretty much only drove on cold start so used heaps of fuel Now that I work 30mins away, about 50% highway, 50% around town driving I get 450... Heavy turbo car with an auto box makes it thirsty J

G'day Burns, welcome to the Stagea group They are great cars, and like you said, you get to have lots of traffic light chats J

Oh what a pain in the butt But it's good that I read this cause I was gunna get my sunroof's tinted.. Not anymore. J

Ahhh, I miss those days (NOT) when bogans used to weave through traffic just to try and drag me.... Now that I have the RS4 I just get other wagon drivers trying to drag me... LOL The RS4 is a great sleeper, police never take a second look, you can go past a 'random inspection point' and they don't pull you over, and most other drivers have no idea what they are.. hehehe.. J

Great to hear it went OK. Got any pics Just time for a tune up and you'll be rock'n J

An adj cam gear (usually only put on the exhaust cam on RB25det engines) lets you fine tune the camshaft to the engine. Most people have found that 3 to 4 degrees retarded on the exhaust cam works well, or is at least a good starting point. Have a read through Benm's thread (link is above), it's a good write up. J