Jay95R33

Does the 1 1/2 inch gauge come with a T piece and the nylon tubing? If it does I'll grab it off of you. J

G'day Brendon, Sadly the GPS won't work and converted over to Aust spec cause it's a totally different system. From what I know, no one has converted over the TV either, although the screen will be NTSC so just keep that in mind if you get an add-on player/tuner etc.. I ended up ripping all the GPS crap out of my car and have bought a MPEG4/MP3 player to hook up to the screen. Works well. One day if I get really keen I'll get an add-on tuner so i can watch TV as well... But at the moment I'm not that keen J

Yep, that was me AGAIN !! I'm on a spotted freenzy I saw about 3-4 R32's and 2 R33's go past Woden last night. We were sitting at Ba bar's (?) having dinner. J

That would've been me LOL, that would've bee me again Twice in one day, gezz, that's a record for me.. J

Very nice power for 13psi. Very safe boost presure, and I dare say there's more to be had with more boost. The torque looks pretty flat on that sheet too. J

Spotted NJR R34GTT this morning is his driveway Nice car. Thanks heaps for letting me sort the wiring out. Muchly appreciated

Nice one Leigh. The wheels look good, fill the guards nicley too. I didn't know that you got slotted rotors. Do they pull up better now ? J

Yepp, I've been stung a few times in the past. Both buying things and selling things (them not picking up COD items and then being returned to me, then I've had to pay for the round trip postage !!!) People that have stuffed me around before, I'll never do business with them again. These days I'll only buy off of a regular and long time poster that I know. I'll always do a search on them and see what they have sold/bought in the past, and always keep an eye out for a post like "my boost controller is stuffed" from them etc... But in the end it's always buy beware. It sucks, but there are people out there that will try and off load their busted bits as fast as they can J

Spotted Leech again this morning Those wheels look good on your car. Fill the guards nicely too.

Ahh, it's a regular problem. The same problem of seeing petrol fumes come out of the fuel lid even when the cap is on tight... When they comply the cars they have to put a new (smaller) filler neck in, and half the time they don't seal it properly When yo get a chance pull the filler neck out and seal up around the outside of it with sikaflex or silicon (not sure how the petrol will affect the silicon) and that should fix it.. J P.S. - I'll give you a ring tomorrow about that wiring

The only true way of getting it into rwd only is to either pull the front drive shaft, or put it into rwd mode by using the 'pull plug, press brake peddal 5 times'. And even then I'm not 100% convinced that the second method it totally safe on the clutch packs. J

I thought they were still in production. What's it called now, the M35 or something ?

One thing I've been thinking about. Being an electronic boost controller, what does it use to sence the boost presure ? Does it have it's own map sensor? or does it figure out what it needs to do by going off the duty of the injector that you need to tap into ? It's also something I need to find out about the Unichip boost control module, does it need a map sensor.. If so I'll have to source a one and install it cause the Stagea's don't have one from factory - no boost gauge.. J

I ended up going a full custom made job. 3 inch turbo back, through a 3 inch cat (that I supplied), then resonator and rear muffler. All mandrel bends etc.. Sounds nice, has a very nice rumble at idle, but has no drone when cruising. Mine costed $950 if I remember right. J

I've got two stock rims sitting in the shed you can have for $100 + postage from Canberra. J

How did you go SK ? Any luck with the injector ?

Do'h - just realised what I wrote... I meant to say it was the top DRIVERS side of the engine bay J

Good stuff !! That's great that we can share info and stuff with the guys at SWAT. They seem to be pretty switched on when it comes to performance and cosmetic things for the Stagea's I wonder if they can get parts for us too

Yepp, that's the one that I used too (top passengers side of the engine bay). You can get to it from the engine bay, or by taking off the plastic inner guard. Should be heaps of room to pass the wires through. Just need to do the old coathanger through the grommet trick. J

Just on the topic of transmissions, I found info on how to get the auto transmission into diag mode. Here's the link; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...755#post1179755

Found this on another site and thought it would come in handy for anyone with an auto. Apparently this works on R32's, R33's, maybe R34's and it also worked on my Stagea. ******************* I have found a diagnostic routine for the auto box on another Nissan site. Most of the diagnostic routines are very similar even though the cars are different models. So, here it is. 1. Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on 2. Start the engine - the power light will go out after 2 seconds 3. Turn the ignition off 4. Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release) 5. Overdrive off 6. Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on 7. Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2 8. Overdrive on 9. Move the selector to 1 10. Overdrive Off 11. Press the accelerator fully and release 12. Hopefully the power light will flash out a series of 10 or 11 flashes. Here are the auto trans codes. The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes. 1st flash longer: revolution sensor shorted or disconected 2nd flash longer: speed sensor shorted or disconected 3rd flash longer: throttle sensor shorted or disconected 4th flash longer: shift solenoid A shorted or disconected 5th flash longer: shift solenoid B shorted or disconected 6th flash longer: overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconected 7th flash longer: lockup solenoid shorted or disconected 8th flash longer: fluid temperature sensor is disconected or the control unit power source is damaged 9th flash longer: engine revolution sensor shorted or disconected 10th flash longer: line pressure solenoid shorted or disconected All flashes the same with no long start flash: battery voltage low, has been recently disconected or control unit has just been reconected. ************** Also found these codes, but I'm not sure if they are relevant; Auto Diagnostics Code Description 111 Inhibitor Switch 112 Vhcl Speed Sen A/T 113 A/T 1st Signal 114 A/T 2nd Signal 115 A/T 3rd Signal 116 A/T 4th Signal 118 Shift Solenoid/V A 121 Shift Solenoid/V B 123 Overrun Clutch S/V 124 Tor Conv Clutch Sv 125 Line Pressure S/V 126 Thrtl Posi Sen A/T 127 Engine Speed Sig 128 Fluid Temp Sensor ************ One thing I did notice is that you have to make sure the car (and gearbox) is up to running temps. Remember that the oil may take a longer drive to get up to temp compared to your water temp. J

LOL - yepp, soon I hope !! Just had a slight delay with getting it in. APS said that I'm the first to put a Unichip and the boost control module into a Stagea, so we've had to make up our own wiring diagram etc... I 'think' it's all good to go now.... hopfully.... J

Yepp, that was my beast Unichip didn't go in cause they were having problems locating the wire for the TPS. This is sort of a blessing, cause I was playing with the TPS and trying to find the wire on the ECU for it. Found the wire and I also found out why I get a slight flat spot when it's cold... The TPS needed adjusting, now it's all good and not giving false readings when cold (that's why that couldn't find the output) I'll go back out there tomorrow and tell them. J

I think the white rims would go well with the yellow paint.

Cool, looks good. One thing to remember about tyre sizes and ATESSA, and that you just need to get the rolling diameter the same. You can have different sizes front and rear, but as long as the rolling diameter is the same. But saying that, you may upset the handling etc.. This link works out the differences in the tyre sizes. http://www.secret-secret.com/turbo/DIY/tir.../turbotire.html