Kinkstaah

Everything is wrong with my car, lol. It's been off the road 7 months now. [Rant]Not 7 months as in "I cant afford to get it on the road" or "I don't know what to do with it" or "It's an upcoming DIY project" but 7 months of excuses from well-known mechanics, whom I must have given the most absolute shitter job to do.[/Rant] Should it ever be finished, or should I ever simply give up and buy another car.. I now know what this button does! $5 says it won't work for me though.

Thats kind of the point. Are there places/courses/whatnot that actually provide language learning in this fashion. I.E - Speaking with an instructor intensively in order to become fluent. The japanese school mentioned above is probably more what "I" (note, not me) is looking for, 20 hours a week for a year, for example. One would presume that that's a small classroom environment.

F*** me. I had played with that button countless amount of times wondering WTF it does, and played with the buttons on the wheel, wanting to use them, figured it was broken, or the button was for something else even though it did 'nothing'. When I get the car back this is going to be THE first thing I try, lol.

So, car has been at the mechanic for 7 months now.

Rosetta Stone is also a good one. Worth the money. I paid money for it and was happy with what I got out of it. Mind you this wasnt Japanese. As my gf has differing opinions on the worth of non-face-to-face language learning, what would be the best place to enroll to learn the language from start to finish. And by that, I mean literally nothing, to 100% fluent.... while being in-person style lessons is there any institutions that can offer something like that?

here we go..

My 4 door has passenger side airbag, ABS. GTT should have Traction control also. N/A one doesn't. My one doesn't as it's a n/a with a GTT Engine in it. Mine is a late 2000 Series II - I do not know if this affects anything any

+1 for Chun Po, wandered in there by chance and was very surpised. Unlike other awesome asian restaraunts which have great food but shittastic decor and service, this place seems to be quite nice in every area. Will definitely go back.

So you see dodgy/bogan looking commodores with P plates on and assume the driver is nice polite and courteous? I really don't think so. Like it or not, attitudes do get welded to cars commonly doing stupid things/looking terrible/acting terrible.

If it happened enough, then yeah it actually would tarnish the lexus brand...

Well, I'm happy Trent had a slightly larger WTF for this one, compared to when he looked at mine

So in the end we can safely dust this one off as Natural Selection and rest assured that noone innocent was hurt. I'd really like the news to just report it like that, maybe thats the angle people need to take to reinforce the point that its stupidity causing incidents like this, not the car, not licensing rules, nothing other then good ol stupidity.

That. Centenary park is good for a public course, wide as it is it'll test you, but as far as public golf courses go it's pretty damn long, (it is wide, though) which may not be great for a random hit and/or beginner to the game. I score terribly there, it's cursed. Also cursed, albert park driving range. Seriously there's some dark magic going on there because every time I go to the range I magically lose a hell of a lot of distance. I went to Morack after that to feel good about my golfing ability. Until they removed the driving range.

I had a similar situation where my car (also a '00 R34) was pulling to the left, took it in for an alignment, but they said the issue was caused by a bad bush which was replaced and all ok.. I recall them telling me if the car is consistently pulling to one side it may not be an alignment issue if it makes no difference to the pulling whether you're braking, accelerating, cruising, doing mad drifts, etc. Most mechanics could tell me that a watermelon is a suspension component and I'd smile and nod, though.

What's your golfing level at? Where do you normally play, so we can not reccomend these places

Yea, getting the thing running nice and smooth is priority one.. this is really me wondering whether I can dream about it in the future. I suppose given the time it'll take for dreaming (saving money) it wouldnt be too hard to simply try a manual ECU and find out what happens. But I'd love more info on it as opposed to simply resorting to trial and error. Especially as "getting the car running smoothly" would be on a stock ECU ideally, still not sure what happens in regards to AT ECU in a car that apparently has shift ability without one, sounds like it would cause complications, hence the query

Yes, I read these threads and I cling to this one sliver of a silver lining of having a car in pieces atm.

I own a R34 GT (4dr, NA+T.. sort of) that has had its fair share of drama. My ultimate fix for aforementioned drama would be to: 1) Engine swap with RB26DETT 2) Reinforce Auto box with MV Auto Shift kit 3) Use stock GTR ECU. Given the above quotes, it should be possible. But given how expensive it would be to attempt, is any other information about this available, all over the internet all I've been able to find is DAN666's posts on the subject Is there any Nissan Documentation available on how this works in the NA vs the Turbo? Would really love it if it exists. Yes, I am a complete car newbie. Sorry if this is so bleedingly obvious noone documented it I do also have a follow up question. (Whilst saving up for option A, above) In my quest to get my car working, legal, and un-f**ked up (drivable), a fair bit of modification was/is/still is required, swapping loom, plenum, throttlebody etc. I also have an ECU. This ECU is supposedly from a R34 A/T ECU. I presume this can only have come from a R34 GTT? If the shifting is handled outside of the ECU for the NA models, and you add an ECU that apparently has the shift logic in it.. what happens? Do I need to source a R34 GTT Manual ECU for my Automatic car, in this instance?

If you're in VIC, I really would recommend not doing this, you'll be in a similar hellhole I've been trying to get it legal, and I'm not even on my P's It may be fun for a little while, but when it bites you in the ass it's not worth it..

Awesome.. but does anyone know whether this is different for auto/manual? Or whether they are interchangable? Or whether I actually need all 3?\ Spose I'll ask Workshop C I actually did post in there about 5 months ago I also posted awhile back in the "Find Part Number" thread.. infact last I checked the most recent reply in that thread was actually me, looking for the part numbers of the loom I got a LOT of PM's in regards to this which was really quite nice and supportive. Also checked the EPA rules and it looks a little grey area. Not sure whether the "Modified or aftermarket plenum chambers or throttle bodies are not permitted." applies, given the throttle body and plenum were/are from the original car. However that conflicts with "the converted vehicle is in all respects identical to the production turbocharged/supercharged vehicle." which would seem to indicate that the plenum, throttle body needs to be swapped over to avoid having an argument with the EPA, as Mr Nismoid mentioned earlier. Which is fine, because it explains everything and I'm a happy camper. Well I'd be happier if I had the car, but happier to know I'm certainly not being screwed over by anyone. Didn't really think I was being screwed but naming the thread that would make people look at it. Still looking to find out whether the shift logic on a R34 *NA* Trans is independent of engine ECU. Apparently (according to DAN666's posts) it is, and this differs from the R34 TURBO Autos. Would love to resolve the issue by throwing a RB26 in and actually have it work, as opposed to having a crushing disappointment a few months down the track due to it! Thankyou for the responses, SAU'ers!

EDIT: From here (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/VI...html&hl=VIN) 6U9000ER34009512 Is apparently the VIN number of a R34GTT .. still don't have FAST though. Anyone got a torrent?

Actually I've tried.. I made a post in the "Find out part numbers HERE" thread to try and find it (as I dont have the car, I cant check where to find it, and obviously I dont have a GTT loom to check the part number on for the turbo loom. Cause if I did, I'd have a loom. Don't know anyone with a R34 GTT either. ) Infact, the e-manage was a case of me wanting to be able to drive something in the meantime, while trying to find the loom and not having to rely on public transport to get to and from work. If easily modified still means it'd fail EPA unless the intake/throttle body/loom matched correctly, then that would be the exact reason I got the "You'll need a loom" in response to wanting it all to be nice and legal. Which sets my mind at ease a lot, actually. Mainly wanted to understand the reasoning behind it, which I now do. In which case the "you may actually be better off doing an engine swap" also gains a lot of validity, for those reasons.

Hi guys. I'll try to keep this as concise as possible, but it is a long story. I buy a car from workshop A, after State Roads give the all OK. A 2000 R34 GTT Auto 4DR (hey, I like convienience) Turns out Workshop A are a bunch of bastards, and as I learn more I realise this isn't what I was sold. Made a thread awhile back. Anyway, found out that NA+T is nice and legal, and even more responsive, so I move on to Workshop B to get it checked out, and legal. Was running bad. Had FMIC and POD (eww, EPA!), wanted to get it checked out. Workshop B Is possibly the highest regarded workshop I've seen referred to on these forums. Workshop B look at car. Workshop B scratch their head, wonder WTF is going on here. They find out car is a NA+T, running a NA ECU. (No Piggyback) They advise to get it going legally, need Turbo ECU, and some modifications to Loom, so nonexistant things the Turbo ECU is looking for (boost sensor, Traction Control, ATESSA?) so make the ECU stop giving error messages. I do believe DAN666 mentioned this is somewhat simple to do. Would also need an Airbox, and GTT Injectors ETC. Fair enough. I get the ECU (from here, woo!), and call Workshop B. The answer I get from workshop B is that they weren't willing to actually do the work. (?) Bit bummed as I already bought the ECU. They do however, refer me to Workshop C. (another, very well recommended place) I go to Workshop C and advise the above. The car has since been there 9 weeks. The most of this time I was advised was trying to source a GTT loom, but having problems finding only a loom, as opposed to engine swap. I suppose this is normal. I don't know. He says that it isnt possible to modify the loom in the above fashion. He also said it would need a Turbo Plenum, Throttle Body, etc. As the car had been there 6 weeks looking for the loom (is this even needed?), I cave and go for an e-manage ultimate, making the car non legal. I figure if I get pinned in the future, I'll either just NA the car, and do an engine swap. I've also been lead to believe on the R34 Auto's, the shifting is independent of engine ECU, which means could drop a RB26 in there with a GTR ECU. I'd love that to be the solution to my issue. But it seems, for now, I've been quoted $1800 for the ECU, fit, tune, etc. Is this really required, when apparently modifying the GT loom isn't so bad to fool the turbo ECU to stop giving errors? That was the original plan.. and then get the thing tuned by Trent @ Status tuning. Did I take the car to the wrong place? Is doing this so rare that its understandable a workshop may not know the info provided by the great people here at SAU? Are the SAU posters incorrect? Should I have just taken the car with the turbo ECU to an auto electrician instead of a workshop? I've only "had" the car a few months, really got thrown into the deep end here I think. Recommendations, or places that will tackle this very welcome.

Well when (if? been there 8 weeks now..) I ever get my car back.. I'll see how it's mounted cause I'm paranoid about being done for it Though for peace of mind, engine swap may be the only real answer for legality in vic. Then again, I "heard" that "someone" had managed to get a RB26 up and running on an auto, which was originally a NA. which sounds like an awesome way around the problem but with my extremely limited knowledge I'd imagine some kind of aftermarket management would be needed too God victoria is teh suq. I may just have to cave to the gf's comments about moving somewhere warmer, I.e WA or QLD..

Why do people de-badge cars? I never understood this, and my car is actually debadged by it's previous owner. I just don't understand why people would do it, other than if you are doing a conversion, and putting on new badges to reflect that (which seems to cause contraversy). In my case, that didn't happen, and the badges that were removed weren't even relevant to the work that had been done on it, so.. why?