Kinkstaah

Well now we all see it! I did the same. Then cut it out. Then melted half of it. Then discarded it entirely. So... you're in good company.

I feel like this is crazy pills though. Isn't it locked up all the time anyway? It shouldn't flare anywhere if it only unlocks momentarily while it shifts gears. And if it flares like that when shifting gears, then the 8HP with a 5500 stall is not driving as well when on the road and/or track use..

Yea my question was really relating to having a big stall converter and it's interaction with that. Why would BMW not just put a 5500 stall converter in there stock then? Then the OEM car could just launch control hard.

The only other time I changed it is when I noticed it had become discoloured after a few track days (it was .. yellowish). So I drained and refilled the rad. I think most people are in this situation. It's not like the car ran any cooler after I changed the coolant either. I'm gonna go with "If it makes you feel better, change it!"

I think you'll find that with modified cars, the radiator has to come out more often than once every 2 years, meaning this generally gets cycled pretty well lol. If I had a car that had been sitting for 5+ years I'd probably flush the coolant. Coolant really shouldn't go off. It's main purpose is to inhibit rust and stop the whole thing from freezing, the latter not really being an issue here.

The ability to have both a 5500 stall for launching, and a regular lockup for every other scenario is pretty sweet. Does it actually work well like that though in the real world? Would it hold up to track use and otherwise you'd never know you had a stall converter in it? If so, that's awesome

Excuse me, but 2) does apply 1) Would also apply if you consider how much is spent in the alternatives. Also there's the option of 3), buy one pre-built that you can put your family in (it's me, it's my car) That said, I went on a ~500km drive the other day. I didn't use anything more adventurous than 3rd/4th gear at about ~3000RPM and 50% throttle and I was going as fast as anyone has any sense doing on a public road, with enough grip to the point where I didn't want to go any faster. I was obviously under the limit of the current car etc etc. MX5 with 2.5 N/A to achieve the same speed would be more fun for any road scenario. Maybe consider cams. I wouldn't boost it. The use case is just not there and it won't actually make the car more enjoyable unless you really do plan on wringing gears from 1st to 3rd (at least) at 100% WOT on a public road to 150+kmh.

You need to know I am sorry for this.

When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.

I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.

One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too: And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D

Oh man... I've been here, that's for sure. I love my ugly but still functional headlights that can never come apart again.

I was going to say it looks right out of Gran Turismo photoshoot when you just buy the car. (in a good way)

Sold, pls delete!

Corvette thread then? Don't say I didn't predict the future again. "I love the little MX5, I do, but I just want something a little easier to get in/out of, a little more cushy and some power would be nice - I miss the V8 Rumble... I found this clean red C5 for sale recently and..." I'll do you a great deal on the next step, which is one of those but you can fit people in it, too.

I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.

I'd want an even MORE side on view. More or less you want to make sure the outlet is actually square with the outermost part of the bumper. Or you end up getting soot all over your bumper from your hektik exhaust. In any case, it looks pretty close. I think the way to fix this is probably more of an overhaul at an exhaust specialty shop if you want tips that are rounded off or sit nicely with the bumper but have proper clearance and don't move - Probably more of a redesign than a quick fix. I've pencilled in my own exhaust with its own various problems, pinholes, PITA fitment, and other issues and can see myself going to a shop and saying "JUST DO THIS BUT BETTER?" Which is gonna work better than any more small fixes. I'm gonna chime in here officially with "from an outsider perspective this exhaust looks fine so this is self OCD probably" (which I also suffer from)

Yea - Needs a side shot TBH. Other than that, actually looks pretty good. My OCD would want to see it tuck 'higher' but melty melty is a concern.

have they? Link appreciated. I live in Casey. I can see both sides of the argument in this case. There's a lot of sketchy stuff going on. There needs to be a clear definition of what this is supposed to be IMO. I wager the intent was to be a broad sweeping brush against people who have 4 cars up on blocks on their front lawn, not someone who services their own car behind their own gate on a weekend bothering probably nobody. But it'd be hard to legislate the difference there.

I hate cleaning wheels. I like clean wheels. Wheels that take over 30 seconds to clean one send me into an unfiltered rage. I can't imagine having to jack up the car and remove wheels to clean them. How do you do it? The wheels do look great. But what about next time you drive and it feels like they're dirty by the time you leave the driveway? Also: If you love cleaning wheels, why aren't the barrels cleaned? I would expect that someone that into it would also keep the barrels clean. I plan on buying rims that are natively brake dust coloured to save time.

I did a bit of googling, the color MCM used was Galaxy Grey from House of Kolor. This is actually a colour I picked out about ~10+ years ago (or more). This one is a stock BMW colour, I guess over the years I figured it was smart to get an OEM colour that was pretty common for all of those sensible reasons one can think of..

ATTAKD 356mm Brake Kit for R34 GTT or R33 GTST. Same brake kit as per here from JJ: https://justjap.com/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02?currency=AUD Can confirm these will bolt directly to a R33 GTST with 12mm bolts OR to a R34 GTT (which is what I had) with the supplied bolts and the collets for the 14mm bolt holes in the R34, which are included. Also included is a set of rotors and hats, as well as 2x brake pad sets. 1) DBA XP (street, hills) 2) Forza FR6 (track) These are radial mounted and bolt directly to R33/R34. You will need extended brake lines to avoid them being full stretch on lock - this is common for all BBK's with the bolt point being in the center. In my case I welded another stud about 25mm lower than the OEM one and retained stock lines and fittings. You'll want a BM57 BMC to get the most out of these. I speak from experience. $1800 (neg for SAU people), located SE Suburbs Melbourne.

Set of R33 GTST Calipers, Rotors and Pads. Calipers just taken off my car, rebuilt about ~30,000km ago. Rotors have done about ~20,000km total since new. Pads have plenty of meat. One set is DBA XP (road, hills) and the other set is Forza FR6 (track) Still working perfectly, not rusted, or seized or whatever the hell that greets used brakes. All clips, bolts, retainers, slide pins etc included. Also have OEM handbrake shoes I can throw in there if you're doing a conversion. $650 for the lot, SE Suburbs Melboune/VIC

I feel I have covid right now. I spent the time between Dec 21 and Jan 31 pretty much working 16 hour days on the car after it got back from paint. It turns out you generate a long list of "things to do" while the car is off the road but functional. After going to visit my mate for a "Couple of hour job" doing the brakes, 3 full days later I got home There was more on the list, (it got added to while sleeping on couches) but as everything on the list got enthusiastically crossed out as it happened, I've actually forgotten what they were. From memory there were bushes that had to be pressed in and out, washer jets to fit, etc. Some Gregging highlights: 1) The panel shop covered up my washer jets and painted over it. Good job, I think. We had to drill the new bonnet to fit new ones, which was understandably extremely scary. 2) My handbrake on the RHS is f**ked. After never adjusting it forever and learning on the fly, this one is still on my to-do list. It tightens when you pull the lever, but at about 10% of the tension that the passenger side does. Thoughts on what causes this would be great. 3) Pouring an entire liter of brake fluid over the reservoir because I forgot how to use my pressure bleeder. DON'T PUT FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR. IT WORKS BY USING PRESSURIZED AIR NOT PRESSURIZED FLUID. 471907729_9242915229093447_2708910336906717367_n.mp4 I can confirm the vents work great though. 4) Some of the bodykit fixings were f**king awful. I'm talking screwed in with what was at most a 2mm screw, and could flap the kit around by hand. Too many others to mention. They came in, went out of my brain forced by other stupid tiny things that came up and "While the car is on the damn hoist we can fix them" which was a mission in and of itself, because the car has skirts and is thus a pain to put on hoists. Because we had to buff the windscreen to get rid of the overspray, I also had to very gently wash the car. The "Run 3 wires" task was to re-attempt another gregging thing which was: The LS1 ECU in Australia does not have oil pressure wiring because the Commodores do not have a 'real' oil pressure switch The Corvettes in the USA do have oil pressure wiring because Corvettes have a real oil pressure switch. The ECU is the same physical ECU. So what I could do is pull the ECU apart, run 3 more pins and run it to the OEM oil pressure ECU, and the ECU should do this. What actually happened is that Greg did this with some not-so-proper-wiring/connectors to the ECU pins which 'might?' be okay put the car back together, and then the fuel pump wouldn't prime. So you can imagine I immediately undid all this work, put the ECU back into it's original configuration, thought I'd do some more research about what connectors the LS1 Ecu actually uses... and try again later. Except still no fuel pump prime. After a lot of sadness and checking/double checking it turns out it was the relay in the boot that controls the fuel pump. All I did was switch the trigger wires and it worked fine. I looked at the relay and it was covered in bog dust and was unknown years old. It's since been replaced and working fine. After I got the actual connectors, and the wires were ran I gathered my strength and repinned the ECU and Voila! I apologize for these MMS 472164532_8829400773820369_5410969472548349643_n.mp4 And even via ODB2 on the headunit, woo. Now Torque Pro can raise hell on track if it gets too low. It has a wonderful EMERGENCY_DISTRESS_SINGAL style warning if it goes below a certain threshhold. 472585876_9345134268844369_146554337148747327_n.mp4 TLDR: Car great. HFM kit works. So much cleaning. Buy my old stuff. Thanks.

Source: This thread, and the thread this thread spawned from. Alternative take: Is heat actually an issue for the use case of this vehicle? I wonder if it actually would be. Nekminit