Kinkstaah

Good idea on the temp probe. The mv readings of the O2 sensors are very similar to one another, as is the injector pw. I went through logs in the past to see if there was a discrepancy and there is. Because they alternate up and down as narrowbands do.. they do often 'switch' as to which one is more. They were never 20%+ (more like 1-2%) so it's possible the difference between 20 and 15-17% is a similar discrepancy to 2.0% and 1.7% which I wouldn't have really noticed in the past. We did think about spacing the strut brace. Unfortunately the ~20mm that the GTR brace is lower than the GTT brace is effectively what you need to clear the vents. Moving it up would make it very uncomfortable, but it's plausible that 10mm is a unhappy medium between both hard places... The good news is.. using MR HAMMER it was actually pretty easy to bend back the bent bits to make sure the guard and headlight/new headlight tabs line up right. Yes, we used a R34 GTR guard to make sure the bolt holes all lined up with a known straight guard. As above, you can see the side skirt and the GTR guard are not meant to play together, but everyone seems to think this is a simple fix to the point where nobody who has had these talk to one another mentions how... ...so I'll just assume they know how to fix it when it comes to paint jail time again. Whoever they are. Nobody returns my calls. There's so much changed with regard to the ECU and the car.. that the next step really is to connect the scanner and attempt to drive the thing. It'll be pretty clear pretty fast how in or out everything actually is...

That's the thing. Cam is smaller than before.. though the old cam was +6 degrees advanced. We're talking huge changes here, the narrowbands want to trim out 20% of fuel and pull the (wideband) idle to like 16.0 AFR or such. One side is a little more trimmy than the other. Think along the lines of ~20% to ~15-18%. Unfortunately my scouring of the internet hasn't really found anyone with this issue. People either just disable NB's or have them wildly different, where one is -20% and the other is +20 or 0 (i.e a sensor is just dead/wiring is just busted). Turning them off and relying on the base map only results in the wideband reporting at about 14.0 with the Varex closed. It'd be a little leaner (closer to 14.7ish) with the Varex open. I know I can just change the switch points so that the narrowbands agree with the wideband, but it's still odd. Both of them are reading voltage, it's just that they're reading quite high mv, in the ~800 region. It's just odd. This was with the IAT fudged to report it was about ~22 degrees which is my guesstimation of the temperature in the room. I have an OEM sensor ready to try tonight, which is slow and crap - but .. worked last time I used it. Sadly I am aware that idle tuning with the big TB is going to be a PITA and I look 'forward' to many hours spent stalling or stumbling idle or delving into drivability things.

The GTR strut brace clears the new manifold.. by about 0.5mm. So this means I need to buy an OEM GTT Strut brace (again), which will clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. I guess I can sell the GTR Strut brace with the bonnet with the vents as a package deal as someone will need this one day. So my choices are vented bonnet but no strut brace, or GTR Bonnet with OEM brace (which I have to buy) but is bright red instead of the same colour as the rest of the car, which means the entire front end of the car will just be red until it goes back to paint jail. In other news the engine starts and doesn't leak. Why both O2 narrowband sensors think the tune is rich AF I do not know. The idle is also pretty shitty and my expensive IAT sensor from the USA is dead. The car sounds awful. But I assume or at least hope this is due to the many exhaust leaks, and the concrete garage it is in, sitting there with 0 intake bolted to it, and no bonnet or panels or anything to stop the induction/intake sound which is about 200db.

The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace. The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p

So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.

There was a good video somewhere, maybe Kurzgesagt that linked physical activity to ADHD/Anxiety/Insomnia etc. Basically the body WILL spend energy doing something if you don't spend it doing anything physical. It isn't fun, but I personally have noticed I've never been overthinky, or unable to sleep if I'm physically exhausted from doing a lot. The musings around it seem to indicate that this is one of the reasons/mechanism that physical activity improves mental health/wellbeing etc, by more or less not using that 'extra' energy to overthink, be anxious, inflammation, etc. There's also the fact that every obnoxious exerciser ever says it's great and helps which is extremely annoying. Like people who say the same thing about travel being the best thing ever. I mean, they clearly are, but blah. I started doing a LITTLE myself (think 3x15min per week) and honestly did notice the benefits, aiming at life quality when older. Which is sooner than you think. Getting something into your routine that you can actually make a routine has helped me at least. This post brought to you by procrastination between sets.

I'm honestly not sure. I wired it into the OEM ECU and my pinning the ECU and making the plug is not as perfect as the OEM would otherwise be. This is via the Torque app for ODBII. You can set an alarm, but you can't set a timed alarm. It would be nice to set the alarm threshold for being under X psi for 0.2 seconds or something like that to filter this out. I also noticed the OEM R34 gauge has very specific intervals it sets itself to. I.e 1-2-3-4 bar, and it rounds down. So if you say have 27psi oil pressure hot, the OEM gauge will read 1 bar at idle. (GM incredibly specify 7psi per 1000 RPM so 1 bar is double what is 'needed') This terrifying notion is what lead me to get 3 oil pressure sensors and gauges

THIS. I was losing my mind looking at the OEM gauge which does 'work' in a R34. I lost a lot of time and sanity figuring out how it works and whether I could trust it. The only downside I have now is my wiring is almost correct myself, and occasionally my working Oil pressure sensor likes to randomly spike to -11PSI once every.. oh I dunno. Hour or two? It gives an ear splitting alarm for no reason which is fun. But I know my oil pressure didn't truly drop from 45psi to -11psi to 45psi over a 0.01 second range while cruising at 60kmh in 5th gear :p Save your sanity and know for sure!

Absolutely. R34 Sedans with V8's in them are the peak of the platform and should be priced accordingly. Get with the times, people. It's Brian O'Connor + Dom Torreto + FAMILY all in one.

Get more oil pressure sensors. I have 3 purely because trust no-one. It would be worth checking (if not already) if it happens on every shift. Like boring, 2-3 shifts at 60kph making 10kw with no obvious G-force on a shift with mega power. Does it still drop? Does it drop less? What if you shift at 5000rpm or what have you with no load?

Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.

I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p

The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.

Some sense has prevailed! What kind of idiot spends money on intake, heads, and cams for a N/A motor in 2025? Lol. What maroons. Source:I am King Maroon.

Definitely didn't put a N/A cluster in instead? The speed sensor (location) is different in both cars.... I think. This will obviously stuff things up.

500-600hp into a RB is already 'sinking endless amounts of money' into an engine. Especially a 30 year old engine. Unfortunately this is the RB Game. Considering stock power (or at least stock components) will do ~360whp on 98 by simply turning up the boost on the stock gear on a RB26, that would be where I'd say the cutoff point for "sinking endless amounts of money into the engine" Cause to even do this reliably you'd probably need to replace all the bits anyway cause they're old, starting your sinking journey anyway. I reckon the least painful way is rebuilding the engine to make 50hp over stock lol. The 'plan your ownership around a rebuild' was a common saying 15 years ago.

12 months on the pump would be great! The pump is really not that old, I have a receipt from when it was purchased new and it's done ~25,000km since then. it really should be okay. And if it it's not, well. I figured I'd at least run it out as it's already tapped for the nissan temp sensor sticking out of it. Here it was, ready to make it's journey back into the bay, though the balancer had to be tightened/seated more. And it was very stubborn to sit back. So much so that the crank bolt ended up stripping inside the crank instead of the balancer moving to it's intended location.

The idea is that this gives all the benefits of ITB's and Trumpets with zero downsides of ITB's and Trumpets

There really needs to be an ODBII item that can play intake noise through speakers, synchronized with your current RPM and TPS%.

The way I think about it is, it's doomed to fail. Anything that marred the colored plastic is absolutely going to obliterate any paint finish. And it got scratched or touched or used in the past to get into that state. People need to start reproducing plastic parts or 3D print replacements that clip in that are colored all the way through and not just coated in something (anything).

My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..

Getting Dangerously close to being ready to go back in the car. Rockers in with clearance castings now (and a quick check with the USA for the torque settings for the larger custom bolts) Covers and ported FAST Manifold sitting on there. Not fully tightened down as there's some clearancing required for the water pump with the earlier LS1 water pump styles. Example of the clearancing needing to be done: The body has to be ground a little but I'm struggling finding an actual piece of it. The later variant of water pump resolves the issue as the manifold was designed around it. It only came on the VZ LS1 in Australia, it got a different pulley for Gen4 motors. (it also costs $450... vs... $0).

It uh, it doesn't seem closed tho Mr Admin.

Well, on that note no - I don't actually have much in the way of pressure, but priming the car results in.. having pressure. I confess that I probably have to do two prime cycles for the pressure to actually *stay* at 43psi but it will obviously bleed off pretty slowly in my one, isolated setup. In my experience it'll start after a crank or three tops. But we're talking about a modified LS in my case. So experiences with RB may vary, though I never touched much/any of the startup cranking stuff for the OEM ECU.

I'm not entirely sure WRT internal check valve. I am lucky enough to run my fuel pressure at 43psi :p. I assume it's higher than 43psi as I needed no retuning after changing pumps from a Walbro 460 which was the variant that had the 120psi check valve which I think they turned into 525? (I am unsure)