Kinkstaah

There's probably a good chance of the top of tank to relay plug being here, but not the one on the underside of the stock lid. There's a guy selling 2 fuel hats and pumps and stock wiring for $150 across melbourne, but I mean at this point I really only want the plug. IF I circumvent the issue by downgrading the pump and using less draw by doing that as well as buying a new DW300 pump instead of continuing to use the Walbro 460. For the sake of 3 amps. Which by all normal, official means should be fine anyway with the 15 amp Walbro if I just do it 'correctly'.

I have since been googling madly and I do have a brand new lid. However finding the actual fuel pump plug (on both sides) is proving to be a very tough google. The kits etc from Justjap have a flying lead from the DW300 to where you would ordinarily connect the tank side wires with the little soldering links they provide. However the problem is finding the plug for the actual fuel pump lid (on both sides). I could then connect that to my relay, once it's out of the lid, and just put a good ol rubber grommet(s) to seal the holes I've drilled in said new lid. Given most fuel calcs imply that a DW300 is good for 550KW (crank) on E85 in a N/A 3 bar application, this is pretty overkilly. Anyone got a spare stock fuel pump loom? This plug seems maybe findable. This one however... less so.

Most calculators imply I need about a 300LPH pump (with a little more for safety). However a DW300 (340LPH) ~12 amps. is that really going to make the difference?

I mostly expect that the revised designs (the current FPG hat is version 4) is probably quietly due to similar issues or potential worries like the ones I've run into. I did look into other pumps - The walbro at 45psi is 'only' a 15amp draw. Does anyone know a more suitable pump that fits on a skyline hanger? I did have this thought too, but couldn't actually find anything that draws less. I do plan to stay N/A, but even on E85 we're talking ~350kw of power (in the future with aftermarket heads/intake) at 45psi fuel pressure. It's not really crazy and being N/A means a single 460 is technically a bit overkill. But other people run these without problems so I'm confused. The main draw of the FPG lid is pretty much due to the fact it comes as a plug-in-solution, with regards to the parts inside the tank, and from the tank lid to my very simple relay, which only wants a single power wire with 1x spade terminal, and a ground to the car chassis (and) battery. (and the trigger wires for the relay I suppose which I need to redo) I'd need more reading to determine exactly why solder is bad. It certainly wasn't the thing that failed for over a decade in fuel. I get that you don't 'need' it if your crimp is good enough, but my brain wants to think of it as 'wiring glue' lol.

I did not have crimpers in Sydney. I have them here. Why no solder? It stops wicking, it's strong and stuff. Explain why. FFG wiring is puny. I demand science. I can attest to the previous wiring clearly lasting many years inside a fuel tank, although heatshrink turned into quite an exotic material.

However to add onto this, the car lasted about ~5 hours until it died going over speed bumps at Glenrowan BP, about ~5 hours from home, and ~5 hours from Sydney. When this was investigated, basically every single join in the wiring more or less just fell apart with no force at all, in any way. Eyelets just slipped off, as did female blade terminals on the fuse, which was leaking fuel. At this point I said to Lex that it was really unlikely that the plug at the pump was any better, and pulling it apart was one thing, but making it actually work without a crimper nor any solder was going to make it work. RACV was called again, and the patrol guy came out and agreed with the situation as you do. However the tow wasn't going to be available until the next day. So we were given an option of potentially staying overnight for NYE in Wangaratta, to which I was not happy with, after waiting for ten hours for a tow a couple of days before. RACV couldn't get me a hire car to drive home - So they ended up paying for a Taxi to take us both home, and said the car would be delivered the next day to my house. This Taxi ended up costing $850, (usually the limit for RACV is $300 per breakdown tow), and RACV paid the extra. Not to mention how much the actual tow would have cost for the same distance ontop of that. I'm pretty happy with RACV total care, definitely paid its way for these two events, even if the first one took awhile, which was more of an issue with NRMA and miscommunication than RACV. The car arrived at my house at about 9am on New Years day (lol when did the guy leave?!) and eventually was pushed into the drive, and later that day I pulled it apart to find that yeah - The wiring to the plugs had become disconnected/fell out just like the others. So what's next? Well, I have no idea. It appears that the wiring had fuel in it due to capillary action, which can be overcome by pretty much having any solder in there which gets between the wires and stops this. So actively soldering the plug in the tank should stop this ending up dripping from the relay inside the boot... I never used grommets in the past to stop fumes by running wires through the tank lid. I have no idea why I never tried using a damn grommet. I don't like the idea of bulkheads purely because the connections clearly became loose over time, hence the melting. Less joins/less f**kery is my way of thinking, as long as the grommets do a decent job sealing against fumes/explosive fumes. however, in the past I've: 1) Melted the stock plug - so an upgrade of wiring is needed clearly as the OEM Nissan plug running 12V caused this to melt the lid 2) Wires through the lid always leaked/caused fumes, not ideal with relays and other power sources in the boot with regards to oxygen and fuel vapor (may be solved with grommets) 3) Eyelets/Bulkhead fittings have become loose over time, causing arcing and melting. So this leads to Deutsch plugs in the lid itself, being secured by physical clips by virtue of clipping in may be the way forward. However all of those plugs are only rated to 10AMP though everyone seems to have no issue using this. I don't like rewiring the fuel level sender to a deutsch plug while sitting in the boot. Feels complicated. I contacted FPG but when I noticed their products, I have seen their lids: 1) Use wires through the lid like this 2) Use Eyelets 3) Use Deutsch plugs directly like: 4) Use some kind of OEM plug like the R32/S13! So I'm really not sure which approach is the way to go here. It _implies_ that going through the tank lid with wiring directly worked at least semi-well, or that they trashed this plan and eventually moved to Deutsch plugs. I summarized most of this and got in touch via FB, though at this point not sure I'll buy the alloy lid, because if the implication is that wires-through-the-tank is fine enough, then I'd rather continue using that instead of paying $1k for something that isn't any better, though I may do it purely because I know that Deutsch plugs will at least stay connected over time by virtue of clipping in. I still don't know why Walbro put 10AMP max wiring inside the fuel tank for their own plug. Clearly I'm missing something here. hopefully I can get the car moving reasonably before I ping Mr Paint about taking it out of my driveway for XYZ months to get it painted_.

Well, I was stuck on the side of the road for 10 hours, speaking to RACV, NRMA, and Nationwide. I spent the next few days driving around Sydney in a borrowed car collecting random wiring bits in an attempt to fix it, considering I had no tools whatsoever I suppose Lex and I did pretty decently, and got the whole thing rolling again. Here's some more gore photos! The NRMA guy was messing with the ground wire for the pump and it was arcing/moving in the boot. And as shown, it has been melting the bulkhead fitting and generally creating a pretty shitty connection with regards to grounding. The thought was perhaps the bulkhead under the lid was loose. Being unable to pull the pump out or remove the lock ring (even though I was hitting it with an alloy pipe and a breaker bar over and over) it got towed and I bought the appropriate tool. Note: It took me and the Sydney tools fellow about ~3 hours to actually locate the tool on the shelf. This is not hyperbole, and it summed up the general cursed plan to go to NSW and try out their driving roads. After 3 hours, I went with the lock ring tool to remove the pump and investigate further. .... After extreme swearing and quite a fair bit of sobbing, I eventually removed the old hat to find this on the other end. It was tight and sealed and entirely fine. This wiring from a decade ago was actually pretty resilient, even including the ziptie shibari keeping those joins apart, holding fast for a decade. However there were problems that still needed addressing, I needed to find someone who could sell a fuel hat, in Sydney, that wasn't closed over the Christmas break. I did find Vega Autosports who were opened, and answered my sad phone call, 5 minutes after their close time and agreed to be there the next morning to sell me the part (and lend a drill to drill it for my lines). And sell me a seal. And a new lock ring. I asked for a sticker and got offered a pair of shirts! Consider helping him out by buying all your random OEM bits for various cars. Armed with a new fuel hat, emergency surgery happened to get the car going. However, I only had a set of pliers and no wiring to actually complete these joins. I hurt my hands in an extreme way to get these to somewhat crimp. The above things were collected over a good 8ish trips to shops around Sydney to find things. Installed in car, put back on relay, and YAY, PRIME! I tested the car, drove around the block and everything seemed normal again. Hooray! Then I put the car back together, and no start. After more sobbing/swearing/rapid disassembly of boot. I couldn't find why, until I realised the main power/ground of the pump wasn't actually the issue. The actual issue was the two wires (or maybe one of them) that was running through the relay to trigger the pump. When plugged directly through the bypass terminal on the relay, everything was fine. That's not to say that very arcing/melting ground on the power pin of the pump was particuarily 'good', but at least the trigger wires could be repaired at home, given they were out of the loop. With MOST of the car together (keeping this relay visible) we headed home the next morning, only a day late on Christmas Eve.

Old pacific highway is pretty cool, I think I'll stay awhile. (Anyone wanna lend me a multimeter or a walbro 460/525 pls :p)

No. It's all Aluminium! :p. And that's the point I'm making, I wouldn't have done it if I couldn't retain AC! I recently drove it with the center console out, I had thought it was gearbox heat. However after driving it for about an hour, the shifter was still cold and all the heat shielding from the tunnel was working great. I now think it's the fact that there's headers running behind the steering wheel/infront/underthe driver, and the fact you can feel your ankles warmed when you step out of the car seems to suggest that too. In any case yeah. Aircon sure is great.

I use AC every time I drive the car. Something* makes the car pretty warm simply by existing. It's how I know the car is truly up to temp, water temp, oil temp, cabin temp. That said it'll be ~22 and keep the temp down on a 40 degree day. There's no excuse for the deletion of aircon. Ever!

I should re-iterate. It's not that it's bad, but my brother didn't fit in it. The ADM one he did fit in, had more powah, felt like a much nicer product overall than the Euro. More grown up, and a better interior, in his example they were both auto. The ADM one felt like a luxury V6 Camry because it... is. The Accord Euro (and Euro R!) may just wake up with a manual and some choice mods, given their large community that's probably the case. But there's also the case of "A car's worth is not exclusively defined by it's ability to be a track weapon" too

I hate to be "that guy" but my non-car-person brother recently needed a car. We tried the Honda Accord Euro and it was lackluster. And this is coming from the household that loves the CTR and we drove one for 800km this last weekend. I wouldn't bother with it in the Accord Euro. It's a very lazy and non performance car. We ended up buying the ADM Accord, with it's 3.5V6 it felt WAY more potent.

I mean.... I have a T56 Magnum if you want to do the Z8HP conversion for mine..... (the grass is always greener for reasons unknown)

Yeah in my case I took my current wheels (18x9+30) and simply made some measurements to add +20mm to the outside edge of both. I also noticed the inside edge of the rears has about 30-50mm of space. The front has like 0.1mm to the arm as it stands. This leads to 18x10 +17 at the front, and something weird like 18x11+35 at the back. No wheels exist in these measurements which is why I'll have to go custom - And definitely measure and test some other wheels first. By my maths 18x10.5+15 at the front should absolutely poke. Yet it's a common size for the front of 33/34 GTR's, it could be: 1) it needs more low and more camber to fit 2) the rim actually pokes in all these setups 3) the geometry is different Or all of the above. Which is why I'm waiting before I buy things...

People are confusing boost threshold and boost response. (including OP). G30-770 would be more suited to 600hp as well as above, which means an EFR7670 would be even better

Finally, my prophecy is paying off. (also this does apply to other TC systems as well)

I'd still choose an EFR over a G35-900. That on a 2.5 is just going to be dogshit lazy. Someone did do an EFR vs G Series when it came to transient response and the EFR did beat it out, however the comparison was on a 1.8L MX5 and not in the range these turbos are. But I'd still be surprised if a G35-900 is more responsive than an EFR8474 or the likes. Without googling it I don't actually know if wheel sizes/lb-min are comparable. There could be a closer match. I don't mean boost threshold, I mean response.

I had a 2.8, with an EFR, the most responsive turbo on the market. Then I decided I wanted more response so I added a further 2.9L of displacement and got rid of the turbo. ... probably cheaper than building a RB26 with a bottom end that can reliably take 600hp, a turbo kit, whatever kit... and VCAM as well...

So, after some delicate sandblasting I now have a windscreen again. It's funny how new windscreens look different. It has a big shade band and looks a little blue through it. Lucky for me (rare) the maximum damage of that rust was really just some light pitting. It's time to just drive/enjoy and wait for the painting man to become available which is supposedly next Jan (at some point)

It's ~20mm on each side over the GTT. It depends on your ride height and whether you are cutting fenders at the back to fit the kit, because the inside metal guard will remain the same dimensions as stock, unless it is pulled out, or cut out. Further to that, it really depends on what you consider "good specs" to be. The real answer is measure. I've got the same kit and the same plans - And I've taken measurements... but I won't be taking final measurements until the bodykit is actually on the car, and I can measure it while it's on the ground because +2mm in theory may not be 2mm in practice, and that can ruin everything.

Pilot Sport 5's is a really solid road tyre. They get a bit overdone for hardcore track work, but given where this thread started it's definitely gone in the right direction!!

Also: This arrived! (it will now gather dust for many months after being repackaged up)

I'm waiting for HFM. I still have sets of pads (current road ones which do not fit properly, and the track ones which do) for my Attakd/Stock setup currently. It's entirely possible to be able to get more, but it's definitely not as easy as "Oh I have a 370z, give me pads for 370z". When I spoke to HFM about it, they advised the Z1 won't be exactly the same as the R34 due to the offsets being slightly different? They also stated that the threads in the Z1 are aluminium, whereas HFM use a stainless steel helicoil insert which I'm a fan of. That and they modelled their kit on the R34 specifically, which I have... in Melbourne.. where I am. I was just jumping on this before I have to buy a new set of rings for the front kit, which while they are a bit heat warped, aren't that 'worn'. But now I have two sets of rotors and 3 sets of brake pads for the 370z Akebonos. So basically I'm set for life in regards to brake consumables now.

So nothing has happened because nothing needed to happen. I am waiting on parts to arrive for bodykit reasons, and as we all know, this takes a very long time. But everyone likes some misadventures, so here they are. I had a mysterious squeak appear from the engine bay. I thought the worst and thought it was cam chirp or something along those lines, but figured I would check the belts first as that's what everyone says to do. This belt was 2500km old. I've replaced it with a slightly less-torsioned belt this time. I had heard you needed to be unable to flex a belt more than 45 deg, so now I know it's "About 90" it hopefully will last longer? I also snapped my key in half opening the boot. When replacing the serpentine belt, I noticed this windscreen issue too. Not to worry! The belt is no squealing, I had 5 spare keys, and insurance will cover 1 free glass. .... so it became time to call the people responsible for panels and paint very urgently. Good thing Optus wasn't having a nationwide outage that day when I was stuck outside with a car with no windscreen. Luckily the chain of "I know a guy" found a body repair shop that can clean this out/sort it/paint it/warranty it courtesy of a group of old gents with a bunch of bare metal restored holdens-in-progress at a very very fair price. So end of next week - may be back on the road with a windscreen and less rust. I did also talk 'Workshop 2' into accepting the car with paint and panels for early next year. This arrived with my new future front bar for free, which was nice! I also bought a brake kit on advise from Dose, because I was somewhat tired of trying to find brake pads for my Attakd brake kit (which is not identical to G2/Ksport) With extreme patience (and paint thinners and a toothbrush) I was able to take these: To this: No, I did not respray them. Yes it would have been probably more sensible to sandblast them and repaint them. But after awhile I was just happy to be able to do it by removing the later of awful red paint the previous owner had attempted to paint it all with now if HFM would release their brackets, it'd be great.

If the unread feature was working, I would have seen that thread! (I searched for my own previous thread)