GTRgeoff

Mate, I don't normally pull the pi55 but you are really asking for it. I'm sure others will do that for me...... Race shoes are for racing and for pulling yourself on chapple st in melbourne on friday nights. Plus I heel and toe in work boots and sandals. It is just practice. I've only raced for 22 years in rally, formula ford, sports sedans and sprints. I'm a mechanic and a mechanical engineer that has worked for a couple of V8SC teams. I've also got over half a million kays driving heavy trucks with dog boxes. So do you still think I won't know the difference between a dog engagement and synchromesh engagement of gears, or a straight cut or helical (what you cal normal) tooth mesh? I bet you don't even know how a gearset works. Do yourself a big favour and spend some time on wikipedia and why things work and learn before you decide you are an expert. Then come back, show some humble and redress every statement you just made. Just do it for yourself.

Ummm no. A dog box doesn't necessarily have straight gears. Double clutching gives better slow changes in a dog box. Heel toe is simply for what R33racer described above. It also helps with less wear and impulse loading due to smoothing the gear transition. Sif wear race shoes every time you drive.

Very ghetto Brendan. Nice to see they have taste there, you can leave the keys in a Gazelle and not worry one bit about theft.......

I'll come out to watch and offer unsolicited advice

Somebody tell me that we aren't missing the obvious. What exactly do you plan to do with the car? Dyno queen? All that HP is useless unless you are actually doing something with it but it won't make you faster at a race track without significant effort on the handling and some ability. Ask a certain 320rwkw 33 ex-owner why he was 7 seconds a lap slower that another 33 GTSt with 220rwkw. Sure a random number is great but a. can you use it, and b. can you then live with it? It will be a fairly laggy unusable pig that you will eventually get the burning desire to cut loose and you will either lose you license or kill someone. Hopefully you discover a race track before then.

Yes, 14mm holes as opposed to 12mm, otherwise exactly the same so no difference in value unless you must have gold.

Just had a look and one is from UPI. Did some business with them and it's seen some time at Racepace as well so could be worth a close look. Get it inspected first and that may make the decision. The other would be nice but purple only looks good with TE37s, right Andrew? (ferni)

Not if we see you fist and can find some 4x2 Mike......

Just Sunday for me. Still suffering after the track day. Too long standing and I almost locked up in the car as I was leaving. Checked the website and lotsa good stuff sunday including the BIKINI show!!!!!!

I agree with wrxhoon and ferni. Buy the better condition car. If you are going to give it a hiding at the track then get the non v-spec as the active rear diff will eventually give you grief of the expensive kind. The non v-spec diff is a loosely setup 2-way LSD that works fine, almost as well as the Nismo one way in my race car. If it was a 32 or 34 then I would suggest the v-spec due to the very real benefits and get a proper diff later, but for the sake of a sticker and some extra technology that is of no benefit and some stiffer but old and tired suspension then the choice is clear. Not convinced? Do a search on ALSD and v-spec diff and see who is after a new one or the problems they have had.

So you heading out both days or sunday Noel?

Plus register at www.sauqld.com to keep a bit more up to date with the rest of us. There is also Paul's (mountainrunner) website at www.timeattack.com.au

Is he mobile? I used one that is mobile, supposed to be a bit soft and he was thorough enough, all the important stuff anyway.

G'day mate, these still for sale? Cheers Geoff

Yeah my 5 laps were great fun. Oil flames on changes and over-run because I was so focussed on a million other things I forgot about a catch can. Also spat some oil out the front seal due to the crank case pressure so have to clean that up. It dropped just going into the final turn and spat me around as I was downshifting into 3rd. Fun ride. So with an untimed engine I managed a paltry 1.27 in the wet and spent the rest of the day gasbagging.

Sounds good John. If the rain stops I'll be there to cheer you on.

Nah mate. track now, paint later....maybe never.

Had a good time but need to sort a few things. Only one session and then I parked it.

Received today. Much thanks Adam.

Just make sure it isn't water from the Air Con drain.

Second the Spools.

Let me explain something folks. There is no such thing as ADR approvals. The best you can hope for is that a business constructs/fabricates/builds in accordance with relevant ADR/s and so marks the item as meeting the specific ADR/s. There is no specific organisation that actually goes around testing everything to give "ADR Approval". Of course a business that falsely label an item as meeting the ADRs is in breach of a number of acts including Trades Practices.

That was probably the funniest thing I've seen in a long time.....

Hmmmm, heel toe worth 3 seconds a lap at Phillip Island Otherwise only good for reducing shockloads through the drivetrain. See...mechanical sympathy.

DBA use their silly kangaroo paw crap, from an aero pov that is nasty, then there is the structural analysis that I see as being the flaw behind the reported cracking, then the poor slotting design that seems to result in uneven disc wear, then ..... well the list goes on. I'd suggest critical flaws in the metallurgy as well in light of some of the above as well.