Bass Junky

Get a little pot of touch up from the dealership, mix a little bit of thinners with it, then dab your paint brush in and 'dab' the thinned paint into the scratch. Then don't touch it till it's dry.

TIMMMAYYY Nah, he can do that off boost anyway!!

Jaik, That's pretty low oil pressure isn't it? I run 4 bar at idle when warm, and 8 when cold.

Looks to me like a nylon compressor wheel which means R33 Series II or R34. interested.....

My general rule is no boost until the oil gauge start moving.

Everyone should give their photos to ash!! Make it a hooge CD

Okay, due to the extreme length of this thread, I have decided to start a new one and transfer the list of people wanting the ducts over there. The thread is here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...239#post1231239 I'll get somebody to lock this thread for now. See you over at the new thread. BASS OUT

Hey ppls. Well, I'm about to start manufacture of my AFM to TURBO reinforcement ducts. I'm going to be making up a bunch of aluminium pipes to splice into the standard duct from the Air Flow Meter to the mouth of the turbo. Reason? It is well documented that at boost levels of around 0.9 bar, the standard rubber pipe can suck closed, resulting in everything you would expect to happen with bugger all air getting into the engine. In hot weather this phenomenon will happen easier as the pipe heats up and becomes softer. Solution? I'm making up a section of pipe that will 'splice' into the standard AFM to Turbo duct. You will simply cut the standard Rubber Duct and remove a small section of rib, then insert the section of pipe, then clamp up the pipe and reinstall the new duct. Construction? Mandrel bent pieces aluminium, in a raw finsih, TIG welded. No polishing will be done, but if you want to do it when you recieve your pipe, the aluminum is ready for it. There will be sufficient pipe at either end to give a good seal to to the air. The best finish will probably be either anodised or powder coated. I would recommend podwer coating personally. Currently the R33 rubber duct is down at the fabricators being prototyped, and I expect a sample to be ready around the start of March 2005 Not sure of the final price until I get the samples back but they will be cheaper than what you could do yourself!! The standard duct will not be able to be returned to standard after fitting the new section of pipe, but the duct will be such that it will be virtually invisible to the untrained eye. They will fit in a TNT Airbag, so freight anywhere in the country will be $15. Maybe if somebody in each state wants to be a distributor the freight can be greatly reduced. So, who's interested?? Please advise your model of car. R31s Angry (RB20DET) AnFz Total R31 = 2 R32s -Joel- Sheepy Predator WazR32GTS-T KICKIN (Ceffy) FAT32 Jolinator TurboX 26GTS tkch55 sskylinee Memph Total R32 = 12 R33s RedlineGTR Robo's Pinoi-Boi-r33 Riceline B1 Mr_Fanny Wolverine Xr8Eater gtrGhosTDoGG11 burnfest SydnetKid (Stagea R33) Jay95R33 (Stagea R33) ICE12 (Stagea R33) SKYBEE |PRESA| Trust33 tridentt150v BLakniTE SKYNUTS lbfalcon GOR33 Bobjones CMS Drifter knore drewecrome halz R33 newbie predator R33_KRAZY nacional craz0 gts-wpn LANFOH Babia r0ma NZM.031 Zebbie MYSTR33 Race__24 abcent R33impul 13_Devil cd04 YogiR33 Bazr33 Terminal gR33ddy Total R33 = 46 R34s ME of course Adzmax Daz Muz Abo Bob Coxy_ GTTR34 Neo_R34 CNBLOW HKS34R ascension Total R34 = 11 Total So Far 72 BASS OUT

Speed Technology in Mitcham are agents for Exedy. Speed Technology PH: 9873 5400 Talk to Steve Newing.

"you cannot do more than keep the waste gate shut until required boost is reached." That's exactly what I want to do. What setting do I modify to do it? I don't want it to overshoot.

I have 8 inch rims on the front, 9 on the back. I run 235 on the front and just recently changed to 255 on the read, previously 235 stretched to fit. Didn't have problems before and don't have problems now.

Hey ppls. I want the boost to hit a bit harder now. I have the PowerFC in and tuned, but I want the wastegate closed longer to allow faster spool. I'm not sure if this can be done with the Boost control kit... Does anybody know if you can, and how?? PS. I have an RB20 actuator..... All help appreciated. BASS OUT

Well, that was a great weekend. Great driving, great weather, great drinking and great fun. Thanks to Ash and the SAU team for organising what was a huge sucess.

Mine does that every now and then too. Runs on one cylinder down. Does sound a lot like a rex. Mine goes away after a couple of revs, or just by itself after 10 seconds or so. Happens very occasionally to me, and at very randow times, hot/cold whenever.

A prize for biggest breakage of the event!!

Also, check battery/alternator.

Has, If you could post some pics, people will be heaps more interested. Free Bump up to the top. BASS OUT

He basically gets owned and bagged. One of them knows him from Perth. Gonna give him a ribbing about it. On one of his sites, he claims someone elses girlfriend as his own! Looser.

What about this [email protected]

GTST Um, I wouldn't exactly use degreaser. Use electrcal contact spray. The Hot Wire is extremely sensitive, I wouldn't think degreaser would be all that good for it. BASS OUT

Hi Yogi. The pipe is now a replacement section for the stock pipe. Stock pipe gets cut into three and the new section insterted.

apparently not.

It's black plastic. It's the best theing to put tyre shine on!!

Hi SAU_FAN Just change gears as quickly as you can. Don't worry about the crunches!! I useed to flat change my Commodore 5 or 6 years ago.

6 am? Who's been smoking what?