Bass Junky

Gents. I will engrave the sample one for a test. Melbourne pick up is fine.

hmmmm I don't see full boost until more like 4000 rpm or later sometimes. I have a rattle in the exhaust at idle and AlexCim told me he had the same rattle and it was a loose wastegate actuator allowing the wastegate flap to rattle. Hence it was open at low boost levels, hence he had long spooling times. He also had the same GCG highflow. Mine sounds the same he said. Maybe I need to pull my bloody inlet tract apart and play with that wastegate. Maybe I'll be boostin much earlier. SK, ever heard of a GCG having this problem?

Satanic. I promise that if you don't tell us how to get better results with our cams gears, that I will ban you and eat your first born. I'm hungry. Munna. There IS a gain to be had, depends on the dyno and the car and all those other things. Do a search for something like "Cam* Gears dyno" and you will find a fair few throads about them. Basically you retard the exhaust wheel by about 4 degrees and readjust base timing. It brings your torque curve over a little and gives up to about 10rwkw gain at the top. Everyones experiences have been slightly different. I just KNOW that from my experience to date (Satanic, I'm waiting for further information) that they have no effect on Neo engines. Satanic. Don't make me kill you and eat you.

SPITITOUTORBAN

Exhaust cam gear on neo is pointless. Don't do it. Marginal gains on an R33 GTS-T. could probably spend the $250 odd better.

Dont do cams on a stock turbo. You'll hate it. I did. But do do cams on a bigger turbo. Fat Power bands are yours to be had

Freeman. The reason it wont close is because the CF bonnet will have the tounge that slots into the latch at the bottom attached to the bonnet with a pair of screws that aren't on the normal bonnet. Those two screws are hitting the guide. Happened when GTTR34 got a CF bonnet. We have to drill two big holes in the guide to make it fit. Thats what you'll have to do. And by big, I mean hole saw size. Get a black texta, mark the bottom of the screws, maybe use grease or oil, or vasoline or something. Then lower the bonnet down. Lift the bonnet, and you'll see where the screws hit the guide. get masking tape, and cover the section of the guide where the mark is with masking tape (remove the oil or whatever first of course). The tape should be about 100mm square. Put the oil or grease back on the screws. Close bonnet. When you then see the marks on the tape you know where to hole saw. The masking tape is there so you scratch the guide less. Get appropriately sized hole saw. Cut holes. Reaffix guide. Bob is your mothers brother.

Just Boost It. where are you located?

Front Suspension Components. Castor Rods and Upper Control arms.

Hey ppls. Okay, here's the deal. We've redesigned the guide, it's going to be cut next week. The Series II people I can't do anything on yours until I have a Series II to try them on. Are there any Series II cars in Melbourne? The pricing on the guides is going to be the following. $110 including the seperate scoop, stainless steel nuts, bolts and washers to attach it. I would really prefer to Anodise them all because the finish is soo much better. I'd say that all the scoops should be black, and you can choose whatever colour you like for the top section, although I also recommend black here. Looks stealth. The price to Anodise them (both pieces) is $25. Freight will be $25. I'm going to buy custom made boxes to transport them in because otherwise they could get damaged. So, to wrap up. Guide and scoop $110 Anodising $25 Freight $25 Total $160. For the crazy man with the Jun engine, without the scoop you are looking at $80 plus $20 for Anodising and the same freight. There ya go. I hope to have a final sample to try on AlexCims car ASAP. Let me know if you are 100% so I can start to get the ball rolling. Cheers Pete

Okay, so they are all now on their way. You Melbourne people didn't show up to the meeting on Tuesday night so we will have to work something out soon. As for the R33 GTS-T Series II people, I'll be redesigning your guides hopefully within a few days and having them made up as quick as I can. Unfortunatly my cutting guy is away in Adelaide until Tuesday and I'm going to a trade show myself for a week in Sydney the week after. I'll do my best to get them on order so they are done before I get back but I can't promise anything. Bare with me. Cheers Pete

PS. Never heard of ROTA wheels. Did a search, the come out of the phillipines. Looks like they are copiers http://store.racinglab.com/wheels.html

Hot Arse Wheels

I would say probe in the exhaust gas. A prone on the turbo itself would not be anywhere near as effective. the lag between a high temperature event in the gas and a reaction of equal magnitude on the turbo itself would be no good.

I use 7800rpm in first 7800 rpm in second 7800 rpm in third 7800 rpm in fourth and then I can't really change anymore, cos I aint got no more gears. Generally I try to shift before 3000 rpm just cruising around town. Car doesn't get onto boost. Normally I only ever take my car to 7000rpm at the circuit, but when drag racing at the track I go to 7800 cos every little bit counts.

Jet Dat Yeah I can make you one, no probs. JimX Funnily enough I have an R33 GTR guide in my office. I over ordered when somebody cancelled! BazR33. $100 delivered.

Nah, Plenty of guys have 265 all round. Adzmax, GTTR34 and a few others. Ask them for their offsets and you'll be fine. If I was to get 18s, I would be getting 265 all round. In Buddy Club PII. Cos they are the sexiest wheels on the planet. Lots of DISH BABY

JimX. If you have a R33 Series I GTS-T you are in luck.....

Have you got head work too Bris?

yeah, but still. Sounds sexy. "I've just had a full head job done."

Okay. I've had the alignment done. Rear end, no problems. Front end, coul only get 0.7 degree of Camber on one side and 1.3 degrees on the other. Whiteline bushes installed. Pulled off the stock castor rods and found that lo and behold, I already bloody well had the whiteline offset bushes. Fitted the Castor Rods anyway, and could only get 5.5 degrees of positive Castor. The Alignment dude said that they were adjusted as far as they would go........ they are from Just Jap. Has anybody else used these particular rods, and how much caster id you get? I'm considering taking them off, machining a few mm off the main nut part and trying for more Castor. SK? Ideas?

Hi Micheal, Welcome to SAU Those wheels will fit fine. Why don't you go for the 265 all round? This will be much better for you as you can rotate tyres, wheels and whatever else. The Brembos may or may not fit. You'd have to compare them to a set from a GTR. Check out www.nismo.com.au and have a look at the GTS-T braking section. they have caliper repositioning kits which look the goodness. I wish I have a set, put it that way. As for the Front mount, the HKS kits use the standard piping on the passenger side, you wont have to cut holes in the body, but with most kits you will need to trim the fron bar a fair bit. If you are in Melbourne, you could come and check mine out if you like. Cheers Pete

Munna. The link to your tuning guides doesn't work....

Excellante Sir SK. thanks mate.

Check out the screen shots! MADNESS!