ARTZ

Is that how you find the wet spot....i been here the whole time man

not to mention dem spinouts on warm up laps at Sandown......thereifixedit...

i got one you can have with a screamer pipe attached if thats your thing

more likely they have just been doing burnouts in your car....there's alot of cowboys in the smash repair game....

bit off track here, but will running too much timing cause an engine to run hotter?

Personally , for the sake of simplicity and cause im a lazy bugger I took out all of the plastic shrouding and left it out.... haha...yeah but those people don't hang around in FI section ,they just go and race their boring hardly modified cars.... the really interesting people come here to discuss building race cars But you're right Driving on a track does not equal "need race car" .......The fact that I am alive = "need race car" ...you should know that ...

yeah i know im probably bonkers but I dont have 1k, atm, I feel like building something and I like to customize things... . front forks I am pretty sure I can pick up a good set s/h, lots of people always swapping them out... the rest of the stuff is reasonably cheap, shimano derailers are under 50$ online cogs are cheap... cranks are gunna sting me probably...so whats a good way around that... I guess what i really want to know is what brands and such represent good value for money.. is a 30$ shimano derailer going to work or do i need to shell out 200$ etc..im no crazy downhill racer, hell i barely even ride anymore, but Im sure once i get moving again it will all come back to me...but first I need to get moving again

bingo Im just gunna have a bit of a rant here but it seems to be people are always trying to force air in all sorts of directions it doesn't want to go and wondering why things cook...sure there is ways around it with more efficient / bigger / expensive coolers etc...but I think if you can give air a clear path of flow half your problems are solved... just look at your basic V-mount setup which alot of racers run..air is trapped forced through the cooler and has a place to exit, this promotes flow..block that flow and you create a heat pocket...the other big benefit with this of course is much shorter cooler piping again promoting easy flow.. I think there is alot of cars out there that could benefit greatly from good changes to their frontal flow...without the need for super expensive coolers.. of course packaging this into a daily driven car is not always possible... anyway as stated earlier Its seems the header tank is the way to go...will be my next budget mod anyway ...

i mine are at least 8/6 probably stiffer, you down push on the front and it doesnt budge...with bilsteins shocks it rides beautifully... Only issue I find is due to the stiffness unexpected dips in the road can sometimes try throw the car of line....that just keeps you awake though and theres no teeth shattering ...if you want smooth its all in the shocks man..

I agree with everything you said there, i have standard fan and no shroud, also have some basic ducting to coolers and run E85, plus my AC is ripped out which no doubt promotes some better air flow and I have no issues but... I have cheap ebay radiator and it works fine sandwiched about an inch away from my cheap ebay intercooler which also works well...total cost 400$ Each car is different though...whats good for this goose isn't always good for the gander... .

They can look great on any car if you do it right.. Thing is, can you do it right?? I think your designs look suite good, but GT stripes go over the bonnet...they will never go out of fashion as such, they are as iconic as mag wheels and bonnet scoops..but it takes talent to make em look good

Hey marc you bike guru you...I got an old mtn bike, pretty much everything is clapped out on it but aluminium frame is nice and light...has front and back suspension but needs new shocks on the front especially...also gears ,cassette I want to replace..want to run a single on the crank and it currently has 7 on the rear which I can live with.. want to get some reasonably good quality stuff to get me going again then if I stuff the frame I'll replace it later... could you give me tips on some reasonable quality stuff without spending a fortune..for starters need Crank with single cog, rear cass and derailer and front forks for a start...needs better wheels and rear shock but will do later. Needs chain,pedals,seat as well (yep it's well stuffed ) but that stuffs basic enough..

Hey marc you bike guru you...I got an old mtn bike, pretty much everything is clapped out on it but aluminium frame is nice and light...has front and back suspension but needs new shocks on the front especially...also gears ,cassette I want to replace..want to run a single on the crank and it currently has 7 on the rear which I can live with.. want to get some reasonably good quality stuff to get me going again then if I stuff the frame I'll replace it later... could you give me tips on some reasonable quality stuff without spending a fortune..for starters need Crank with single cog, rear cass and derailer and front forks for a start...needs better wheels and rear shock but will do later.

he was talking to OP Ron... and +1 still wanting to see dyno sheet...

I was amazed how much difference putting on a well used set of 03Gs dunlops made to my stopping... even when cold they just dig in...

for light track days they are fine...Ive been punting around a few track days with 300kws still on the factory fitted discs from 93. With just some braided lines, better brake fluid and pads.If you can get some ducting in to help cool them would be good and aim for a softer compound pad that wont destroy your rotors and they will last longer than you think.. my times aren't killer but they are respectable and I can fly down the straights which is still awesome fun..just have to brake a bit earlier than the guys with good brakes

What's your cat barking at??

yeah needs more cable ties

throw AC in the bin ...problem solved

yeah leave at 1 bar on the street its heaps...but just for......Science

Faaarrrk Mate that thing is already wound past 180km at 6000rpm and still pulling hard its hit like 200km and you haven't even put 1.4 bar into it yet..16psi is about 1.1 or 1.2 bar...Just looking at one of taos charts and its pulled 360kws but only 180kms...maybe its wheelspin on the roller I dunno Is it you or tuner that doesnt want to push for more?

+1 ....and I'm intrigued to know why tuner didnt try it...if it was responding so well why give up on it....we all know an RB can push further, even if you just did it for tuning then cut it back....it also gives you a safety margin should you hit any overboosting issues down the track..I'd say 300 is a gamble but you're pretty safe on the dyno, its the varying conditions it sees in everyday life that would cause issues... you could be restricted by that vegan clutch though....should of gone carbotic...

ahh see, im still yet to read the precision thread at all...its a decent result you got anyway...is there any pics around of the setup

we pushed mine to 21psi but nothing exciting happened...extra 10kws or something...have you tuned past 16psi at all, and is that on e85 ??

my turbo (actually my whole setup) isn't big enough, its pretty much close to maxed out as is.... but thats why i chose it cause it suits my power target...all i'm saying is why have it if you dont need it or not going to utilize it.. I'm not knocking your setup its killer, im just saying i want to see you turn the volume up.. It could be good for 400kw or you miay as well have got a smaller turbo