Galois

... But why did they wait 2 years to sue? That was in the news when it came out as being falsified, and environmentalists everywhere went crazy. Well, keyboard warrior crazy anyways

When it was for sale you could get it cheaper than that too. To munkeyb0y, m5000 is the semi, s6000 is the full. m5000 was round ~$30 for 5L, which would be more than fine for 3000km. What other oil would you put in an rb for that much? That's why it was/is good value. It apparently has very similar additives to what s6000 had, which was the the second most important point of using sougi, the first being grade V oil for half the price of 300v

Yep, a mix of grades 3 and 5, with a bunch of healthy detergents for the engine

U trolling? Or have you only read one or two pages? To the dismay of the performance community sougi was canned. Birds was a seller and thus has a supply left (possibly, it all gone yet mate?). Anyways, it was the best (top quality for bottom price), but sadly is gone. Strongly recommend the motul 8100 xcess (and the new 10w40 one), and royal purple.

w30 is thought to be too light for rb's 1-2 decades old with many km in the aussie climate. Most people use w40, try RP/sougi/motul 5w40 or 10w40 if you want a change. Changing oil company and grade means any differences you notice could be an effect of either change.

That's $5000 for the lot, and that is still negotiable! More pics too

Wow lol, imagine living in a culture were most people didn't want to fk you over.

That quote was 700 for labour. Needless to say I went elsewhere, I think they were confused and honestly just didn't want the business. What car was that on, because Exedy HD clutch kits for gtr's and r34 gtt's are much more expensive than gt's, gts's and gtst's ($500 difference currently at kudos). That's there the big cost comes in for r34's. There is also barely any difference in price between the standard clutch replacement (which is actually made by Exedy), and the Exedy HD clutches (~$100), the differences between the two are mainly lifetime and stress on the gearbox. Also got to remember that the local mechanic down the road who's only really worked on falcodores and camrys will take a lot longer to do the job than a performance mechanic.

So jealous Nismoid, congrats on the driving though. Awesome read, thanks for posting!

Doesn't the box oil pour out when the drive shaft is removed?

+1 for driver education... then autobarn

You'll probably need to go aftermarket, they're only about $400 and running that boost will be pushing 15 yo coil packs. Yellow jackets are seemingly as good as splitfires (they've been round a while now and still going strong), with 2 years warrenty and for 2/3's the price. Changing spark plugs every 5-10k km is something that you'll probably have to live with, esp running on much boost. Plenty of people like that at least changing that regularly they are monitoring cylinder conditions that regularly too, gives you a heads up if one plug is fowling too often. You'll probably have to go 0.8mm gap for that boost, it seems to be what most people do. I'm not sure if that'd be a 7 or 8 heat range, but for 7 i'd go with bcpr7es/bkr7es or fr8dp (bosch plats for cheap) If you want any more info for this power range look at the dyno thread.

Lol they need it, he's a very talented driver, and he needs to be because he's had the worst luck in f1 over his career. Button not being as fast as Hamilton for that race isn't a bad thing, and it seems Hamilton is driving smoother now than he has before. Button's tyres lasted longer than Hamilton's most, if not all, of the time last year. Don't forget Frank Williams said Rubens should be a multiple world title holder, and despite this Button beat him consistently in the same car in 2009. I'm glad Button won a title, he's always been a great driver and just needed a chance. In the same way I hope Webber wins a title, he's been a great driver for many years and just needs a little luck to convert that to a championship.

It is good news, but might be also a publicity stunt to get some easy popularity... Which they've certainly got lol. Still, it'd be more impressive if they actually took safety to the motorist rather than just allowing the "only speeding kills" culture to continue.

lol, if you want, no harm in using it for a few thousand km, but if you'd rather something heavily used by skyline owners then maybe see if you can exchange it. A lot of people use motul 4100 turbolight for stock-ish cars, maybe look into that if you want a cheaper option?

Head to NA and search mate, all the answers on how-to conversions and reasons why you shouldn't lie there, and lie in the search button. Surprised Nismoid didn't close this lol

Tarps, newspaper and cardboard usually does the job. I always figured if I was going to do a massive job I'd use stickytape, a layer of tarp then a few layers of newspaper, over a fairly wide area.

Alonso is no sap though, he's one of the best drivers on the grid. I feel sorry for Perez, no performance advantage and the driver's earned their results, why couldn't they get a fine instead? Meanwhile, in recent news, Ford is encouraging Nissan to take up arms against Renault, who recklessly and maliciously used the name R31 this year on their f1 car. What has the world come to.

One thing about engine oils is that if you change regularly you can't go too wrong. It's not like changing to a different oil will damage anything, imagine the lawsuits the company would face, it'd go bankrupt. On engine flushing, it's been a topic up for debate for years. I personally wouldn't do it, running a stripping agent in a complex unit like an engine is not an ideal situation, it's far better to use a detergent heavy oil and letting it clean the engine over a longer period of time, this avoids the violent removal of soot which can block small/thin oil passages. Another school of thought is that some of the carbon build up on the cylinder lining can help to smooth out the surface, helping compression and increasing engine life. Regarding magnatec specifically, yes they use a special ester product to attach the oil to the metal. An ester is defined by R-C(=O)-O-R', it is the R and R' chains that are modified by castrol to make their ester stand out as a new technology. One of the R or R' chains has electrostatic qualities which respond to the metal in the engine. As the R and R' are ambiguous, the statement ester is fairly meaningless in terms of actually describing a chemical, especially when the R and R' chains can be far more infuential than the ester oxygen arrangements.

265's sat fairly flush on my 10's. You'd have to get a pretty observant and pedantic cop to notice the 9.5's on the back, but I guess better safe than sorry.

Messiah is damned right there Eurasian, take it to an experienced workshop. You have too many problems and seemingly not enough know-how to solve all these problems (no offence, we all started learning somewhere). Make sure you get the issues Messiah mentioned checked and fixed. Also you have an unshielded pod, meaning that your engine is sucking in hot air on hot days under a hot bonnet, which can cause you further issues, so it might be worth getting a heat shield box made up, or just replacing it with a normal airbox (not really much flow difference, esp with an aftermarket panel). Go to the NSW section, search for workshops, look who has good and bad references. Don't bother actually asking as the thread will just be closed by a mod. There are a lot of good places in Sydney, so have a search and give some a call. Good luck mate, let us know how you go.

Sorry Granthem, I have to respectfully disagree. Magnatec is horrific for performance engines, especially rb's which run a bit rich. It just doesn't have the detergent properties that you pay for with more expensive oils (or that you don't pay for, just get, with sougi). I used it once to do a 1000km flush, changed at 800km because the r34 gtt didn't rev as happily and sounded loud and just wrong. It also came out fairly golden after that time, meaning it wasn't cleaning the engine as it should. Other oils over that time would come out nice and black (be careful not to mix up the black colour of cleaning and of the oil breaking down, you want your oil to come out black as it means the oil is doing it's job). Magnatec, according to castrol, sticks to the metal using the particular electromagnetic arrangement of the molecules, like static electricity sticks a balloon to someone's hair. This is exactly the opposite of removing soot/carbon buildup from the engine as it creates opportunity for sheltered buildups of carbon. It is unlikely that these deposits will cause the engine to fail, or even major engine damage, but it's not making the engine any healthier by leaving them there.

Wow, was that easy to get the refund? Could have turned into a massive sh!tfight here in aus

Carsales be your answer mate, but you'll definitely get more for a de rather than a de+t

Mate, your insurance company will bend you over if you don't tell them about the turbo engine. And do you think the revised insurance will be cheaper on a gt with an engine transplant rather than on a normal gtt? If you're annoyed at the insurance cost a skyline is not the right way to go, considering small things can come up regularly which cost a fair bit to fix. The car will also have poor resale value, robbing future you, which future you won't thank current you for. The mods you've listed are transferable though, so you can keep them. If you go down this path you are literally pissing away 10k, maybe more. For that you can buy an r33 gtst s2, and for another few k you could by an r34 gtt in really good shape. Or you could save up for a house. It's just a waste of money that you won't get back, to make a copy of a car that you should have bought anyways. r34 gtt's have come down 4k in the past 18 months, they're a freaking bargain now. How many years have you got left on your p's? Also be careful asking very basic questions unless you're ready for a flaming from the experienced members of sau, or a tongue lashing from a mod after they close your thread. Things like "how do i get 250-300rwkw" have been covered a thousand times, and the answer lies in the FI dyno thread. There are a million different ways each with different perks and drawbacks. Anyways, despite EVERYONE seemingly turning against you and trying to hold you back from what you want to do, many of us have been there, and we're all just trying to save you the pain of repeating common mistakes