BOOZTJUNKEY

Glad to help mate and it's a problem I had on my last 32 so I no the symptoms all to we'll happy motoring mate

What are the plugs you put in it ? What size gap also? If it's stock boost then gap plugs to 1.0mm On standard coils when they start to arc out or drop spark you can see marks on the plastic looks like there burnt but its not obvious but noticeable if looking for it If they are arcing out you can tape them or silicon them or gap the plugs down so your weak sparks not getting blown out but it's still a cheap fix that will let you down eventually ... Coil packs are killed buy heat and having the coilpack cover on can contribute also because there is no where for the heat to go Also double check everything you touched ( like vacuum lines etc it only takes a Loose clamp split old hose for air to lean from witch could put the air flow meter out cause the engine isn't getting the air that the air flow meter says it is Hope that helps mate

I'm pretty sure base idle mode for 25s can be done by disconnecting the tps and 20s can be done by disconnecting the aac valve not 100% tho

I'm pretty sure base idle mode for 25s can be done by disconnecting the tps and 20s can be done by disconnecting the aac valve not 100% tho Edit wrong thread lol free bump

Ive reset the ecu already when I put the new cas in .... today when I drove it seemed to run a big better which will be the ecu learning as you said as for the flats spots no change as yet but I no it's timing because when my knock sensor lead fell off it felt the same then the timing was being retarded big time as for the light my mates light doesn't have the clip for the trigger wire so have to wait again

It's been a while but off the top of my head you need to mark the TDC point on the harmonic ballancer should be a little mark on the pulley then behind the pulley should be the timing marks you need to point the gun at the marks and as the car idles you should see your TDC point line up with a certain degree of timing it should be around 15 degree before TDC if that makes sense tho it has been a while I could be off a lil

There is a solid white wire just befor the igniter you use that as your number 1 trigger wire for your timing light

Yeah standard ecu it had a tomie chipped ecu but took it out when my cas went because the aggressive timing map and dodgey cas made tha car detonate under load .... I have suspected my timing to be out because the car is so hard to start in the morning or at first start I don't think I have dropped a ring now I started the car this morn it was hesitant to stars still but it started and idled fine so I think the ecu has started to learn and correct some of the issues I am putting a light on it this Arvo I'll let you no ow I go thanks agajn

Ok I think my timing is all screwed I have flat spots all thru the revs till after 5g and then my car violently jerks back and forth backfires and is a right pig to drive 89 cal I have not got Access to light till tomorrow so will check then..... God I hope it's timing I suspect maybe a collapsed ring when I cold start it starts up missing kinda Like when there is an injector not firing or a coilpack arcing out Also when I first start it I need to pump the shit out of the gas and it never starts first go and when It does u have to leave it sit Idling with ABSOLUTLY no throttle If I try to rev at all it just wants to die and miss to the point if stalling it It was that bad today that when I tried pumping the gas on initial start it was drawing enough energy from the electrics that it was turning my greedy turbo timer of and on as I tried to pump the gas which is seriously not right this is REALLY MAKING ME WONDER WTF

Yeah mate Put a light on it my cas just died I replaced it and I put the new one in the same place and my timing is all screwed I have flat spots all thru the revs till after 5g and then my car violently jerks back and forth backfires and is a right pig to drive

My idle is set at 900 but when the car starts carrying on then the idle drops to 600 and now it's even stalling gunna run diagnosis now

When I unplug my tps car dies also with afm us that right ?

I'm starting to look at the worst case scenario here maybe I have blown a ring and might be down on compression in a cylinder I think that because when I first start it ( cold start ) the it's like it runs on 5 cyl and under light throttle the ( just easing the power on) the car is hesitant sluggish and surges real bad it's a pig to drive but as it gets to running temp it comes good except from flat spots which I think is timing Im gunna do a comp test tonight

Cold start valve is under throttle body its a pain to get to unless u have done it a few times lol what series 25 do u have I think only series 1 have the a cold start valve series 2 is different any one confirm this?

Have you tried replacing the tps ? Or cold start valve? If you don't that run ecu for errors and chuck a timing light on it

Try adjusting your tps im pretty sure if you rotate the tps clockwise that will lower your idle and anti clockwise will increase idle speed so if your idle is high on startup rotate clockwise and see if that lowers it find a happy medium with it then you could probably fine tune with your aac valve Idle adjustment screw let me no how you go mate

Also I put the cas in the same position as the old one and now there us flatspots and the car feels sluggish if that help

Changed cas and it is alot better but the miss is still there when it's cold and it still has idle problems it nealy stalls still would the tps be doing that ? I unplugged the afm while the car was going and it just stalled shoundn it keep running ? Ithought It would just have a fluctuating idle with it unplugged? Any body had this issue!

I have suspected my cas to be faulty for some time the last week especially when I start the car it's starts up spluttering with a few revs it would go away also car won't hit boost until warmed up fully I gave always had a pop man miss on idle which turned into miss to the point it has trouble idling .. Idles round 600 and rough as guys I am replacing the tps and cas today but wanna be sure they are the issues any help appreciated my car Is a daily so need it sorted thanks

I have a hitachi on my rb20det so could be Mitsubishi hope that helps

It's a blowby and oil restrictor it's to stop oil getting into the compressor housing if you run a baffeled catch can than it does not need the restrictor . Although I have run a catch can that wansnt baffeled without the restrictor and still didn't get oil I'm my housing

What air reg ?isn't the aac an auxiliary air control valve did you adjust the idle after wards and did you put the aac back. Together properly have you checked ecu for codes

Pretty sure they go to the to the steering rack there is a couple of plugs down

That's all good mate the cas was the important one

ive been told the cas will fit but alters the timing but does it retard or advance it and is it safe to do also wat about tps