BOOZTJUNKEY

Um I'm pretty sure the bcpr6es are not copper plugs not 100% but I am pretty sure the bkr plugs were copper plugs I currently run the bkr6e ones in my car they are copper v plugs and I have not had issues with them I tried running the bcpr6es plugs and I had flats spots and miss fires as you described I dunno y but my car did not like them

Ok thanks guys that's the info I was after :-)

Nah mate I wanna know if it should be stalling the car if I unplug it ?

Ran diagnostic and flashed 55 so nothing sensor related the ecu has picked up on I'm leaning towards air leaking after the air flow meter ? Would that cause these symptoms I can not really think of anything that would cause this problem apart from that

R32 four door Rb20det wit stock ecu yeah I'll run diagnostic tonight I just will be swapping the car this weekend and want the new owner to know what's wrong before I do I suspect either the air flow meter or coilpacks I just replaced the cas and retimed the engine and when it gets it seems to feel hesitant under light throttle and has a bad sputter which may be caused buy one of the two things?

as above I don't think it's normal for the car to die I thought the revs would just become unstable and go up and sown not just die ??? Any body know?

Bump

Item Summary: 1989 NISSAN SKYLINE R32 gtst 4 door, Light blue polished wheels gtr bonnet grill cooler etc Location: QLD: Brisbane Postcode: 4125 Odometre: 190,000 kilometres Asking Price: $7,000 Condition: Used Reason for Selling: Too many bills Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: Pm me for number Extra Information: I have to sell my car due to my financial situation A run through of things done are Body Light blue with rainbow glitter from front doors back paint is exellent the bloke I bought it off rolled the guards and made a bit of a mess of the paint round the wheel arches but not to major Also has a gtr bonnet an grill bonnet needs tlc got hail dints and dint where it has flown up because it didnt have the gtr latch but I have gotten a gtr latch since that bonnet is fixable also has a black front bar because the original had paint chips and a stress crack so replaced it but didn't spray it cause the black grew on me spoiler has also been removed Wheels and tyres and suspension bits Has polished gtst wheels with good Kumhos on front needs tyres on rear Has got gtr brakes calipers painted gold R33 lower control arms in the front D1 front castor rods Rear adjustable camber arms Front and rear strut braces Apexi adjustable coilovers all round Engine acc ( car has 190k on it and has engine and gearbox from jdm gargage IT USE TO BE AUTO) Gtr piping Super sparks(may need replacing or tapeing they have some cracks appearing) Candy blue rocker cover Pod Turbo back 3 " with no cat one muffler into a 3 1/2" into a big gap style cannon New walbro less than 2 months old New fuel filter Interior 2door front seats and covers (throwovers) Is farily clean for age All door cards ( drivers side rear needs tlc or to be replaced cause little bit of fabric fell off GTR Steering wheel farily good could probably use a redye had it priced for 30 dollars New carpet Back seat is great Has a reupholstered parcel tray (tan vinyl) Also the glove box lid is and so are the Inserts on the bottom of the front doorcards Hoodlining could use a clean Has Garret boost gague in the actuall instrument cluster whislch looks cool Greedy water temp gague but sender is broken :-( replacement sender units can be bought Also needs front and rear pillar trims they were old an fell apart:-( There is no boot trims at ALL tho the boots interior is painted and looks pretty cool I think that's it Car is unregistered and will not come with a road worthy if I could a afford to keep it regoed I'd keep it it is still regoed ATM but runs out the start of march This is a very regretful sale and is only being sold because I can't afford to have it with my current situation as above mechanically the car is great apart from the dodgy coilpacks which have started to loose spark I was gunna fix them buy tapping them but wouldn't feel right just dogeying it up to sell I have trouble uploading pics of my I phone so I can send em to you via mms till I work it out Any qs pm me

It could be your alternator ( most likely ) or check your main fuze in the engine bay mine cracked and was arcing out

Did you get your car sorted?

Maybe coil packs but saying you can't rev over 3k makes me think dead air flow meter check ecu for errors codes to rule out sensor then check all rubber hose joiners and clamps ( joiners for splits and make sure clamps are tight) and check vacuum hoses for splits or blown off lines

Got it sorted plz delete

Ok that link won't work on my I phone and it's the only net I have thanks anyway Tony This is wat I need to know the markings on the crank pulley how are do they read for example 20 15 10 5 TDC 5 10 15 20 in what order if that makes sense ??? And where is the mark behind the pulley on the timjng belt cover to line them up ?

The only thing I would run through my injectors is fuel doctor it's an independent company dedicated to fuel additives don't no I they are outside of qld but a good mate of mine works there and I have used it my self and was very impressed with it I it's designed to clean injectors and fuel systems as well as removing built up carbon deposits I had a set of platnuims out of my old 32 and they were all caked with carbon so I put them in my car when I ran some doctor thru to see if it actually worked pulled them out a week or so later and they were clean as I was shocked lol and fuel economy was better it's good stuff My 2 cents anyways

Any one no where it is ?

You can run injector cleaner thru them but when there cleaned professionally they are ultrasonically cleaned I'm not 100% on the process but you could not do the same job at home you maybe able to get someone ( mobile bloke ) to come out and clean them but still would be fairly pricey I would assume

Yeah it's sad Nissan charge either 6 or 8 dollars a seal which is f*ken ridiculous you could try efi performance they do seals can't remember how much tho also places like auto barn sell generic injector seals you take your old ones down an they match them up I payed 2 dollars a seal from there

as above I remember reading a thread on how to change timing belt and check timing Basically need a refresher cause it's been over a year I am just gunna check my timing cause I have installed a new cas on my rb20det Can anyone link me a to that thread or a thread relevant to what I'm doing please?

Oh and the guy I bought my spitfires of was called Brianeasy or something along them lines he has 100 % feed back I think he is located at eagleby or something in qld let me no how you go bro

I got a set of splitfires off eBay they were genuine ones also they were 600 posted to my Door which is good considering autobarn and shit places like that want a grand a set if you have the money go with spitfire worth the money but on my current 32 I cheaped out and got super sparks which can be a bit of lucky dip mine were ok but a mate bought some for his 180sx and they were f*ked straight out of the box you hear good and bad about them I'm pretty sure super sparks are about 500 to your door from eBay but there is a new company that make yellow jackets I think there called I don't no much bout them but there bout 400 to your door but I would check the feed back on them Another option is u can get series 2 rb 20 coils supposed to be a bit stronger and last longer also series 1 rb25 coils work also hope that helps bro Try taping or silicon them first or run ecu for errors And it should tell you where the miss is if it is coil or sensor related it should tell you which cylinder is miss firing

Man pretty sure there still cable operated army they there should be a relay to open the boot does the key work is the lock stiff or something ? Only other thing is take out back seat get a long rod or something to open the lock manually from inside the boot

Did you replace the o ring when you did the pump as soon as you remove the inspection panel that o ring swells and does not seal properly and I got a cas from the wreckers for 80 bucks there like 500 or some ridicouls price like that brand new it's only a 10 min job to replace hard part is making sure your timing is correct afterwards you need to put a light on if or hook up a consult

I had the kinda the same issue man when I started the car it would the revs would not work or the tacho or it would be slow to react it turned out to be the main fuze in the engine bay was cracked and and must have been arcing out or something or even try your dash fuze in the car would have to be electricle issue

How many ks is On the engine it must be coil packs man

Was it the large o ring around your acces panel to your fuel pump that was gone and also I just changed my cas and my high idle on start up is fixed no high idle troubles any more hope it helps mate