The Mafia

can people just understand that the xxxl\ph means nothing unless you look at the pressure against it? For example - 205l/h at 70psi will flow more than a pump that does 255l/h at 40psi WHEN the pressure required is say, 60psi.

I'll check mine, I have 555cc Nismo's running. I found anything under 0.30ms and I couldn't do a thing. They were really hard to set. You can have my settings if you want, they seem to work perfectly. I think its 77% and 0.44msec. I'll double check on my way home this afternoon.

I'm interested in using the powerfc to handle the boost. Did it work ok? CAn you go into more detail? I'd just prefer less crap in the car. (Head unit for 3rd party boost controllers) - the Powerfc uses the Handcontroller which I think is more convenient.

well, I'll explain more for giving you a bit of cheek. The AFM is part of the ECU system and doesn't care what is sucking air though it, as long as whatever is sucking air thought it (turbo, vacuum cleaner, squirrel) isn't maxing it out. The Turbo charger has absolutely no effect on the AFM when it comes to changing, just don't max the afm out. Since S1 and S2 turbos flow the same, you won't notice the difference at all. Everything will be ok. Not intending this as a crack - But Rich Flavour, you might want ot read up on how these systems work to get a better understanding.

The specs look dodgey. 74 trim turbine? T25 Flange? 8 Blade "propeler" ? Real GT3076 compressors are 84 trim turbine, and 6 blade compressor. Don't know what you are going to do with a propeler lol. I'd avoid it at all costs.

apologies blitz. From some of the stuff he was saying it was hard not to bite back. Next time I'll report it.

haha it was just a bit of a funny question. At least you're not like that Zafspac loser in the other thread giving out death threats because he was wrong.

lol at some of the questions

Its not about how much boost your run, its about how the boost is delivered. Zaf, you seem to know everything so you go and do what you think, and stop annoying us with these bothersome threads? Also, if you think running high amounts of boost is going to bend or break a rod, then you are a retard. Air compresses quite well. Its the power\speed of the explosion that buggers rods. I'm running 22psi from a GT3076 (aka HKS3037) on my RB25 and my rods are fine. (for 18months now) Just admit it - you thought if you had too much air\fuel mixture pressure in the cylinder the rods would bend. They aren't made from chalk you know.. You could load 100psi with an air compressor into a RB25 cylinder and it would be fine. Spark the plug and then you're in trouble.. The power of the explosion would blow the block apart. By the way - I'm running over 420rwhp - thats pretty much 500hp at the engine. Standard engine..

I have nismo 555cc. They are a 4 hole and have a almost perfect spray pattern. Sards need collars and if the collars aren't fitted properly they can leak. Get drop in nismos, they are better.

yeah but think about: 1. The fuel they use - more stability 2. Engine is built properly to prevent knock 3. They have some of the best tuners in the world doing them

right on the money. You couldn't be any more correct with this information.

I was going to say something about this. When I did my 314rwkw run, they were 2 degrees apart. TO have an inlet temp of 60 degrees and airtemp of 30 degrees means the dyno operator was trying to fudge everything so you would get your wallet out faster to pay him. A common practice by at least 50% of dodgey operators out there. I was running 17psi all day every day until I installed water meth and increased it to 21psi. You'll find that a RB25 will take 16psi-17psi easily when tuned correctly. My suggestion is to push the boost to 17psi, and drop the AFR's to 12:1 for safety. Also, tell your dyno operator to stop fudging the result and give you a real reading. Not trying to bag out your result - Its plain obvious that your dyno numbers mean nothing due to the IT and AT being so far out of whack. Who did the operator think he was fooling? Shits me when they do that. On a hot stinking summers day, here in far North QLD, my Inlet temps were 37, and the air temps in the shed were 35. You can't tell me its hotter where you are, and your inlet temps magically doubled to 60 degrees. Go and kick that operator in the ass!

I assume you have created yourself a whole heap of problems and put one of these "awesome shiny" adjustable fuel regulators on? If so, go and get a FACTORY RB25 one and all of your problems will go away until you start making power above 350rwkw.

so you're only running the factory ECU? You should have upgraded the ECU to run bigger injectors

don't make the water lines perfectly straight through though, make sure they are on a bit of a slope to prevent air pockets.

have you looked for vaccuum leaks? Does the IAC valve need cleaning?

lol at the very open ended question. Look up the HKS T51r KAI Turbo. That will do. Plenty of head room.

dry dipstick? Did you put some oil in it? Rings might be shot

do you run a AFM Powerfc and atmospheric BOV?

Yes, that is the plan. I noticed this when you see the little bumb in power increase at 75kmph. I've done mostly road tuning so I am not able to see these nice AFR curves to adjust, and also, I only tuned the top end on this one to be a show off at the dyno day. And it worked 12.5:1 and higher I consider dangerous but you don't have room for bad batches of fuel, a idiot driver, or hot days. And there aren't a lot of people looking at the high knock count. They are too busy showing off to their mates. But in saying all of this, the original AFR plot should be flatter not all over the place.

It says 12.4:1 to 12.6:1 in the mid range.... why do you think that is "way to rich"? If you thank that is way to rich, then you need to re-think your idea of tuning.. Seriously, a safe tune is 11.7:1 to about 12:1 afrs.. 12.5:1 and above is considered very dangerous, but I can get away with it due to a fairly obvious reason - WMI

LOL - you're making 223rwkw with a standard turbo? What boost are you running? This sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

that dyno graph is absolutely shocking. That AFR is all over the place, and it doesn't look like an experienced tuner has done that. This is my AFR, after doing about 1 hour of 310rwkw ROAD tuning. And trust me, road tuning is much harder. Its funny that people actually charge to do tunes that bad? How much was it? $600 - $800? Oh, and some advice - I don't recommend ANYONE to run anything higher than 12.4:1 AFRs without water methanol injection. Ignore the bit between 105kmph and 125kmph, as I was only tuning the top end for the dyno day that was on the next day. I have since made that full load AFR straight enough to put a ruler against.

if the engine is stuffed it probably will - the expanded pistons seal and create more vacuum. Its a possibility