The Mafia

sorry mate, but you cant. The car won't start. You need a hand controller to set the 555cc injectors, and the Z32 afm. All other mods are ok and won't have any affect when you limp your car to the shop. Can you borrow a hand controller from somewhere? like a mate? f**k if I knew you I'd send you mine to borrow.

it has something to do with Cams and VCT. Even with VCT off, it can still be there. Strange, but common with RB25's. As above, something to do with cam profiles I think. PowerFC FMIC Full Exhaust 555cc Injectors WM Injection Q45 AFM Datalogit Wideband etc Apexi Powerfc. I've had it smooth before. like this older one: actually, there is a slight dip in torque there?

its been on 18-20psi for over a year now, and AFRs on 12.5:1 and no less. (until I upgraded the fuel pump and they hit 10:1, the car ran like a disaster haha) The timing has been on 22 degrees on the full load row, I've backed it off to 19 degrees which drops the car to about 305rwkw. Just being safe as since there is so much back pressure in the exhaust manifold, I've got a little bit of detonation when things get extreme. Since I've backed it off to 19 degrees its showing no signs of detonation at all. Safer that way. Bare in mind that my base timing I don't think is at 15 degrees so that 19 degrees could mean more or less. What I might do is set my base back to 15 degrees and increase or decrease the entire map accordingly.

don't freak out but I was aiming for 12.8:1. BUT don't forget I am running a water \ methanol injection system. The reason people run rich mixtures in tunes is to deaden down the burn ie. slow it down. You don't need to run the extra fuel (like 11.5:1) because the water takes over the job of supressing the burn to make it burn slower. The Methanol drops the inlet charge by about 15 degrees helping ever further. WMI systems are awesome. Especially up here in the tropics where the fuel is bad, and the heat is even worse. Running the system actually makes stuff all difference between a hot day and a cool night. On a really cold freezing night, the car pings because the inlet charge is so cold and thick.

I'm running a Q45, its showing no signs of maxing so I'm pretty happy with it. Its 90mm too, so less restriction. Here is my car's latest Dyno. This dyno is a dyno dunamics, and was within 2rwkw of the mainlline on the other side of town. I took the car for a quick 1 hour road tune the night before. I've since fixed the AFR curve when the VCT cuts out. Its a hard spot that one but persistance gets it right. That power curve was almost identical to my mates 300rwkw NA 2006 model Monaro.

Mechanic? You should tell me where you work so I can never take my car there, and tell all of my friends to avoid you too. If you knew anything about the RB25, then you'd know just how weak the standard internals are, and that the systems I'm running allow me to cheat and run excessive boost through it (20psi). I didn't check your profile either, I just assumed that since you type sentences like a 13 year old, think you know it all like one, and act like one, then you were infact, around the low teens? Your attitude stinks, along with your knowledge. But something I'm interested in - do you own a RB powered car? If so, then can you "up the boost" beyond 20psi for me and tell me what happens? If you don't own one, then maybe show off to a customer just how elite your skills are, and up their boost beyond 20psi and see what happens. I'm sure they'll be happy with you and reward you with more cash for giving them so much more extra power. Thanks.

I have done every bit of work, from bolting it together to every second of tuning. You're the fool, saying that you should just crank up the boost well beyond 20psi just because you have an aftermarket ECU? Ever seen a compressor map? Ever tuned a car? Ever setup a fuel system? Do you even know what factors involve " uping the boost" and how many other systems can fail \ need to be configured? Simply "uping the boost" works until about 10 psi, beyond that, there is so many damn things that need to be looked at. I don't even know why I am explaining myself to you? You have, 12 posts, and joined today? Oh, thats right, you know everything because you're on the internet.

so if I run an aftermarket computer, standard injectors, standard intake, standard exhaust, etc I can "boost her up to" 30psi on a standard engine? Damn school holidays..

I never had these problems, I actually put more water in down low to be able to put more timing in, and managed to get more grunt off the line. Only problem is you use more water so I backed the water off and took the timing out so it wouldn't ping under low load.

yeah, and the standard manifold. I managed 314rwkw on the Dyno but detonation showed its ugly head, and even with more water meth being injected, it still detonated here and there. I think just over 300rwkw is the absolute limit of the standard manifold and 0.63 housing. There is just too much back pressure at 20psi and beyond.

mine went to 22psi one night - f**ken thing went spastic. Like heaps of power. I reckon you'd go all the way to 25psi before they'd start to show signs of airflow running out. Have you looked at a compressor map? Dale_FZ1 might be the one to ask, I'll email him this thread link. Definately something I'm interested in.

Dale makes an excellent point. Have you looking into a Proper water\methanol injection kit like I am running? Fixed up all of my fuel issues. Then when we finally got 98ron here, it barely made a difference due ot the water meth already doing its job. The Methanol injector idea sounds ok, but I think you need a purpose built system.

hey, retard, before shooting your mouth off, why don't you look into where the thread starter is actually located? DENMARK. How about you f*ck off out of this thread, and don't come back?

hey mate, I'm still grabbing that ignition map for you too. Also, you say your AFR's are 10:1 - that is WAY TOO LOW. Move them to 11.7:1 or even 12:1. 10:1 and my car wouldn'r run properly. It backfired and hesitated on acceleration. Its absolutely way too rich.

maybe they don't have 98ron where he is?

go to http://www.greenline.jp and look for the "Field One Touch Connector" They are the same for the R32, R33, GTS-T and GTRs. I have one sitting next to me.

grab a pair of GT-RS

how could you break a bolt that holds a BOV on? I have a GT3076 pushing 20psi on the stock BOV and I have never had any problems.

THrow your useless FPR in the bin, re-install the factory one, and all of your problems will be gone.

SAU User "choku_dori" needs your injectors. Can you give him first preference? He'll be in touch tomorrow. Thanks.

scartch my post please... sorry

lol settle guys, this guy is legit and is in my town. Thats a bit strange though, only 310rwkw at 17psi on a TO4Z, which is capable of much more. I run 314rwkw at 19psi, on a GT3076 - which makes almost the same curve as a 300rwkw NA V8 here, and plenty of torque (700nm at 3200rpm all the way to the limiter) And why is there a R33 RB25 and drivetrain in there? There is nothing wrong with the Neo engine - The neo engines are actually better because they come equipped with GTR Rods, which are much bigger than the standard RB25 rods. So they are much stonger.

lol lucky its a 2 year old thread, I would have come out guns blazing. Lock it oh holy moderators, before I get my big ATMO BOV stick out

hey mate I've just had a look at this turbo on my Garrett Master spreadsheet, and it appears as Simon-R32 said - a 56 trim GT2871. I know that the 48trim version makes 220rwkw at 15psi, just send a PM to Dale_FZ1 as he has one and has done extensive testing. I will certainly point him at this thread, as he'll be very interested to see your results. I've driven his car and it makes a full 15psi by 2800rpm on the RB25. Very responsive. This would probably make full boost by 3,000rpm (a little later due to the more agressive 56trim) and yeah, I estimate would make about 240rwkw and *maybe* 250rwkw if you squeeze her a little more. Depends on the exhaust housing though, as they are restrictive as hell and the RB25 housing on my GT3076 only managed 240rwkw due to it being too small. But this is definately a f**ken fantastic upgrade for a RB25.

I wouldn't waste yor money on a SAFC, I'd get something like a Powerfc straight up. Either that or an emanage. But the rest of the mods are definately needed.