Ustasa

Proof in the pudding will be when a APS stage 3 kit worth ~10k will deliver a 10 second run on a customers car picked at random. Then the numbers won't lie

Plus the GCG unit comes with free surge on demand. Stick to new Garrett turbo's and pay the extra to get them fitted to your car. At least the factory has half a idea on how to match turbines to compressors.

If you are running waste spark on an ECU such as a microtech, then a average timing gun will show double the static timing then what it really is. A snap-on type gun has the waste spark correction option built into it.

Ryno, You are correct for the fuel side, however the AFM also dictates what ignition timing the engine will receive at its operating point. The a/f ratio might be fine but the ignition advance will be greater in hotter (lower density hence lower load reading) conditions. This is exactly what you don’t want. Hence the reason why many tuners malign the lack of air inlet temp correction on Power FC’s. Funny how the GT-R has a air temp sensor mounted on the plenum yet it is air flow metered..hmmm

You can also throw a spanner in the works by saying that higher boost equates to a higher back pressure in a street engine which means for a given waste gate opening, a greater amount of exhaust gas will bypass the turbine.

Oz, What about passive jamming as in adding a constructive/destructive signal onto the original pulse? Ie. front grille converted into a antenna? How hard would it be to set up an active jammer which is powered and can send out noise on the appropriate radar frequency?

1. Check that the standard bov/s are not leaking. 2. Get someone to watch the ignition timing from a timing gun. The only problem with this is some guns have hopeless shielding and cause all sorts of misfiring problems. 3. As long as the a/f ratio hovers around 12:1 or richer then no need to worry. Keep us posted

Be wary of using the knock sensor to detect pinging. Some cars have faulty or very sensitive knock sensors and can lead you up the garden path if you aren’t careful.

Why don't you guys with auto's take a look at this page http://www.unigroup.com.au/TSI.htm

Do not use iridium tipped plugs for forced induction applications. Our experience has shown them to be severely lacking when it comes to boosted engines. The tips usually break off then the plug is cactus causing all sorts of misfires.

Fella’s just be careful with pumping too much boost in the mid range. With most street engines that’s where the cylinder pressure is the highest ie. 3000-4500rpm. I can understand the theory behind it if you have a turbo you don’t want to over speed, but what the optimum setting would be is to slightly increase boost as the volumetric efficiency of the engine declines. That way you keep ramming air into the engine even when the stock heads/cams give up the ghost. You also keep the ignition timing down and make more power by pumping in more boost. Of course trying to shove 20psi into a stock rb25det won’t do it much good and there are octane/detonation considerations but you can understand the approach.

An internal combustion engine dispenses with most of the energy in the fuel through the exhaust (30-40%) or the cooling system (30-40%). The rest (30% at best) goes into the combustion process to drive the crank. Mind you the combustion process is irreversible in nature (the products cant be recombined to form the constituents) and also governed by the laws of thermodynamics. Add in the fact that you also have the drive train losses to contend with and the petrol IC engine starts to look pretty shit indeed.

The injector constant resets the value that the Power FC uses in it's closed loop calculations. Since the stock unit is programmed for 370c injectors you need to change it when the capacity of the injectors are changed. If O2 is on in the etc. menu then it's fine. The turbo response looks pretty juicy especially at higher rpm. If you have an rpm based electronic boost controller try to dial in more boost higher up in the rev range. That way you can keep cylinder pressures consistent without tipping over the detonation/overly retarded ignition threshold. With street fuel try to make the power with boost and not a heap of ignition

The inj/ign trim feature resets itself after power is discontinued to the unit ie. Ignition off. It’s only to be used as a tuning supplement/make quick changes. The injector menu is next to the airflow menu in the settings screen. Don’t worry about an English version of the R33 manual. You can extrapolate enough from the Rx-7version to get you out of trouble. The stalling could be the A/C limits in the rev menu in the settings screen (last menu). Read the Rx-7 menu for the explanation on what the 4 functions do (5th is rev limit). Make sure the 02 setting is on. The trouble is now that the power FC is trying to modulate the bigger injectors in closed loop mode to hold 14.5:1 thinking they are still 370cc jets. That’s why your fuel map is looking funny since huge changes have been made to try and keep the closed loop function from throwing a leg out of bed. Theoretically the numbers in the injector map indicate the equivalence ratio desired for that rpm/load point. 120=1.2 which is converted to 14.7/1.2=12.25A/F. Since the injector constants are stuffed your map is showing values as high as 150 which is as high as the Power FC can go (150 is a 50% increase from 100). Try the changes I’ve suggested. If it doesn’t work because you end up fixing the Idle/light load but your high boost settings karks it then you may need a retune. Any dyno figures?

Steve are the injector constants reset from 100% to 67% in the settings menu? What about the closed loop function in the etc/functions screen?

Feel free to pass “my sentiments” onto who ever you wish to At the end of the day we like to know that our customers have the utmost faith in our ability to achieve what they desire. If in the past we have been slow at times then we apologise. But we’d rather take our time and do the job right (like strap cars down properly) then just hurry people up for the sake of efficiency. After all if the people want to chat and make a dyno “day” out of then we shall do so. Since the majority of people whom I’ve spoken to prefer our way of doing things then that’s the way it is going to stay.

My partner and I thought by giving everyone 3-4 runs and an explanation of what their car is doing was a good way to build up a repoire with people. Obviously we were mistaken. If people want a dyno day where making $ is the prime consideration over car performance then I suggest you go somewhere else. As for our existing customers from this forum and any new people interested in the technical side of things, we are more then happy to have a chat about your plans

Either your BOV is faulty and venting/closing rapidly causing a airflow fluctuation or your turbo chargers are incorrectly matched to your engine and are unstable in operation. Don’t immediately assume the worst but if the turbo chargers are surging then they must be replaced.

Is it an inconel or steel turbine wheel? They are two different materials with inconel being the superior one. Just make sure they upgrade the turbine and match it with the compressor wheel. We’ve had 2 r33’s with mismatched turbo’s and one surged so badly I thought the compressor wheel was going to disintegrate. As for your question, go for the 450hp version. Always handy to have some spare airflow potential in your turbo

T0nyGTSt You are spot on when you say quality is everything. The main reason I’d go for high flowed injectors is that when the flow bench says one injector is 595cc and another is 596cc I know personally what each injector is flowed to. If you buy new injectors you can only be 99% sure of the flow unless they come with a factory sheet with the specs for the individual injectors. $170 for new 550cc side feed injectors is an excellent price and they are a good choice for stable idle and potential power of a internally stock engine. MRK25T That sounds like the type of tune I’d employ so stick with the guy

INASNT We could have them turned around in 2 working days. T0nyGTSt If they were top fed Bosch type injectors then you’d be right. But getting new side feed injectors for around $150 is a tough ask. Judd The injectors are drilled out and tested under pressure with a solution similar to petrol. What were the negative results you heard and why do think the spray pattern would be affected? If they were GTR injectors with their different seating arrangement then you might have a valid point. MRK25T The graph with the A/F ratio shows 12:1 a/f ratio under 3000rpm (full load I presume). Seems a bit rich for the rpm range and power the engine is putting out at that point. The rest of it looks fine and the engine should be healthy for a long time.

FAT32, We have experienced surging on a RB20DET with a T3/4 combo and it took the turbo supplier 3 goes to get the combination right. We suspect the turbine side wasn’t adequately upgraded which meant the upgraded compressor was supplied with excessive work at a certain engine operating point. This caused the compressor wheel to rotate at an excessive rpm (higher boost) for the air consumed by the engine which is what you described. Trouble is that the RB20DET has a smaller swept volume at lower rpm and if the turbo isn’t matched correctly the compressor will operate out of it’s pressure/airflow region and all sorts of converging/diverging pressure waves will be generated in the inlet tract. Not a good thing I can assure you.

We can high flow stock R33 injectors to 600-660cc capacity for $150 each. It’s all done on a flow bench and importantly all matched to one another so that all cylinders receive equal distribution. Removal and replacing would be another $200 but I’m sure a lot of you guys are good with the spanners and could do it yourselves Btw, I have heard pinging on the dyno yet the power FC commander only showed a knock value of 27 and the engine check light didn’t come on. Go figure. Also Sydney kid has a valid point with the computer sometimes accessing the wrong load point in the tuning maps. So you might get an anomalous reading once in a while and the car might do funny things.

The dip in power might correlate with the deactivation of the VCT solenoid. Changing mixtures or timing can’t fix it. Just a case of the engine adjusting to the different airflow. It’s a common thing in 200sx’s at around 5700rpm.

If you only wired in the basic harnes of the E-manage then yes it would be nothing but a sensor bender. Albeit a better one then the S-AFC since you can have 10% increments of the throttle position on the y-axis which is still better then the S-AFC. Buttry tuning a car with forced induction based on tps lol But if you wired in the optional Injector and ignitor harnesses it would be akin to a Power FC where you have rpm on the x-axis and the afm voltage on the y-axis. We did a S15 200sx like this and it turned out to be a half-decent solution. Although on a turbo charged car you would want a map based load sensor to help you correlate your tuning with the boost not afm voltage.