Ustasa

Only reason I'd choose Motec over Autronic for this application would be the CAS interface. Motec have the software programmed to make it a mouse click choice when setting it all up. Autronic (to the best of my knowledge) do not have the Nissan 360 degree optical sensor programmed in and hence rely on hardware changes (trigger disk changed in CAS) to get it to work. As for functionality and ease of tuning, Autronic IMHO is as good or better then Motec in all aspects ie. Closed/open loop tables, outputs. Plus the SM2 with a good after market CDI is a fair bit cheaper then your equivalent Motec install as Sydneykid pointed out.

Transfer case is leaking

Come on Troy you slack prick You whipped me in most subjects at the concrete cavern so that should be a easy question to answer

Jimmy is an authorised excel dealer in Taiwan and hence has the correct Power FC cable/box. What funkymonkey is saying is that if you don’t have the legit cable/box then you have to figure out a way of inputting/outputting data past the protection chip inside the Power FC.

Here is a true statesman You will be forever remembered in the annals of automotive engineering. Let the engine torchings begin! lol

lol Chris

Is that new Steve? Valent

Sounds like a juicy combo

Geez whats under the bonnet of that thing?

Hmm the key that seats the CAS in only one position might’ve been ground off. Usually done to facilitate the use of other ECU’s ie. EMS where they need to be triggered differently to the stock system. But usually you can still see a faint section of the keyway left. The hard part its trying to line it up to it’s slot in the head.

Sounds like timing is too advanced. Try retarding the CAS by hand (opposite direction of engine rotation). If that doesn’t get it started you will have to pull the CAS out again and rotate the shaft. Is the keyway intact on the CAS shaft?

bump

Nissan Bluebird 1992 SR20 turbo 4WD 5 speed Japanese shape GTR brakes Located in COLYTON Ring Alex on 0419-63 5356. Pics and more info can be found on: http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~alxm $15,000

Pity they used a hub cap dyno lol

I’d go Autronic if you really intend on going ballistic later on. But if you are happy with running 2 Z32 AFM’s and around 550hp at the crank then Power FC is the pick.

Kako si Give us a call on 9631 2470 after 6:30pm tonight and we can book you in to look at your car. It sounds like your oxy sensor is shot and just needs to be replaced. The cost of the sensor is around $100 (bosch not nissan) and around $70 to install/wire in. Valent

We have had a go on 2 wolf’s recently. Not a bad bit of kit once it’s set up right At least they are full 3D in fuel/ignition mapping.

Hmm the more I read of the accusump the more I like it. It brings out the engineering part in me which says a oil accumulator (especially a piston pressurised version) is a very handy engine saving device. With the one way check valve, variable volume resevoir (piston wall) and electronically actuated flow valve it gives you some room for error in terms of oil surge and pressurisation at start up. Even the best sump mods won’t give you fast pressure build up on start up. For the money and potential ease of installation I’d do some very thorough research on this idea guys

I dare say it would go along the lines of… “Please call the design office in Torrence, California”.

Seen many a faulty knock sensor. I think it is presumptuous and alarmist to say the engine has karked it and the guy is trying to piss you off. The knock sensor is a piezoelectric device which picks up vibrations at certain frequencies. It is also susceptible to picking up spurious vibrations when it gets a bit long in the tooth. No one engine is the same and hence even batch of knock sensors programmed to pick up knock for one rb25det might be a touch sensitive for another. Only real way is to listen for pinging on the dyno or with chassis ears (placement is important) and have a safe ignition map in the first place. Try –3 in the ignition trim and go for a rap down a safe stretch of road and record the max knock value. If it’s significantly different then knock is occuring.

What I can’t understand is how the car was built with so much techno detail ie. attessa, twin afm’s, hex throttle bodies and yet on the track with a few laps a lot of them die a miserable death. Surely the car was flogged senseless around a track before sold to the public? We aren’t talking about a chook cooker a to b grocery getter here. Strange….

Well what takes 5 mins with the HC takes 30 seconds with the laptop. The ability to change injector pulse width modulation at certain rpm’s, graphical display for all the parameters and overall control of every parameter ala motec/autronic makes it a top bit of kit. A shame it cost $$$ and it’s all in japanese But at the end of the day, even with a HC, if you know what you are doing then it will do the job

Chris, I just hope it is a simple waste gate issue although the signs point to that not being the case But that was a roller coaster of a night, from the welding to the cas to that power steering belt, I haven’t had a night like that for ages. But the car definitely has the goods to make a lot more with what it has now.

The most disappointing thing I find on the dyno is a car that comes in like a burger with the lot – except for the camshafts! 220rwkw RB20DET’s with 300rwkw turbo’s that only need a decent pair of cams to turn them into the short stroke screamers that they are or 280rwkw RB25DET’s that could hammer out 330+rwkw with just the right set of cams. Blocks, cranks, pistons and rods are your power support structure that has to hold under the strain. But it’s your head/turbo that delivers the power. Most of you guys would be amazed what a set of decent after market cams (yes exhaust AND inlet!) can do for your engine in terms of mid range and peak power. With the factory setting up their cams for best emissions and down low response then it makes the upgrade even more noticeable.

Yep that’s right. If you have a 2.5 turbine exit, the dump pipe should gradually increase in diameter (7-12 degrees) till you get to the size of the exhaust you want ie. 3 inches. This is known as a diverging (as opposed to converging) nozzle which tries to “suck” the exhaust gas from the turbine exit using compression waves. In reality it all depends on practicality and if it’s a prick to make ($$$).