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Haha yeah I saw that too but I thought he really ment 200ml The only way to know what damage there is, is to pull down the engine. How could he possibly know what damaged has happened? and for him to say he pulled 2LT of fuel out just means he talks alot of shit.

Good power but f**k its lean, 12.5:1 =/ no wonder it was pinging lol

Just buy a compression tester, rip all the plugs out first, start at 1 and work you're way back, crank it over 3 or 4 times and write down the results. Should be around 140-160 if a cyl is leaking it will show.

It all depends on what happened when it locked, was it on start up or? Id just keep driving it till it dies and throw another engine in it.

Na that's just silly, put a top fuel engine in it, 40 injectors with twin 3 inch fuel lines ftw

1uzfe with twin 3076s plus supporting mods....hey I never said it would be a rb25 haha

Got to love iPhone auto correct haha, I know theres not much room, but if you could pull it off imagine the hype, especially on a drifter.

Give me 25k and ill build you a 500kw+ engine lol, also you'd be lucky to gain 15hp by letting it ride on the top of the rollers, easier to put the air temp sensor in hot water and gain 30kw =)

If you're on a budget just go a Kando T67 or TD06, Yellow Jackets will be fine, run series 2 yellowjackets because they have built in ignitor's. Injectors 1000cc Injector Dynamics, cheapest ive found so far are from Lewis Engines. Plenums...depending on budget, ebay FFP, greddy FFP, plazmaman plenum to keep you're long runners. Throttle body 80mm is MAX you'll need. Exhaust manifold, porting will cost almost as much as a 6boost. EDIT: injectors flowing more than 500cc/min are usally low impedance injectors because of the faster response times of the peak and hold pattern and it depends what fuel rail you run, most common is 11mm and you cant beat ID injectors.

I know this would be abit to extreme for you're application but have you considered a composite turbo setup? ie little turbo blowing into a bigger turbo so there's boost throughout the rev range? Ive had great success with this on duramax's but its been a HUGE budget involved. Considering though you have easy access to custom metal fabricators this wouldn't be such a challenge. Food for thought.

Need more power Simon? Or just building a backup engine, nothing's impossible but you'll need a big budget, personally I wouldn't go higher then 10:1 but if you could pull off 11:1 it would be epic. The tune would have to be perfect and same with the build there's no room for error with that much comp, fuel would need to be under strict monitoring also.

But in saying that I also never used to use them until I started tuning petrol cars.

I always use knock detectors, even if the ecu has it, its hard to hear knock on certain cars over the engine noise and ecu's arnt always accurate, especially vipecs would read huge knock when there was none and read low knock when I could hear it quite clearly. I know a lot don't use them because half the time there to lazy to clip it on the block or there works to cheap to buy one, also yes a lot of cars can take time on the dyno to sort out bugs, but not something as simple as det.

Oops I ment 2.5 hot side and 3" cold

L O L I liked the part about "Honestly you should be happy that they actually have the correct equipment and actually heard the detonation." and "especially when you have allocated 5 hours for a tune..... and not 2 days" Who could possibly take 2 days to tune a car? Imagine the bill, hi yes that will be 1600$ please oh and great news it made 6kw more!

Vipecs are just Link G4's, so save some coin and get a Link or better yet get an Autronic YellowJackets are fine 1000cc ID injectors Bosch 044-Surge tank GT3076-TD0625G-T6725G 6Boost manifold or similar and a 50mm wastegate Run a MAFless tune E85 3" hot side 2.5" cold side FFP & 80mm TB 300kw easyyyyyy

Finally got a reply and this is the result Hi Mark, I check with our delivery department and was replied there seems problem on the T67 turbine shaft and we could balance it. We are still trying to solve the problem. I am still in business in korea and will be back tomorrow afternoon. I will double check the situation for this turbo for you. By the way, if the T67 turbine wheel can not be solved, could you accept the bearing system to TD06SL2-25G type like this ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-4-TD06SL2-25G-T3-10cm-V-Band-External-450P-/280868632390?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4165133746#ht_2463wt_1185 it can go with anti-surge inlet as well. The both wheel spec is same. All the difference is bearing system. Sorry for waiting and inconvenience. Regards Eiji Takada

I wouldn't use Gasket goo on it, use Loctite 515 (also dont use much of it, only a thin 1mm bead) its a much better product for manifold type seals, atleast on the intake side of things.

Take it out and try to blow into it, you shouldn't be able to, only suck.

Yes it would be the catch can plumbed back to the sump with a breather on top, maybe try 10-60 or 15-60, a blocked or broken PCV might be the cause especially on turbo cars, at least its easy to check it!

Back in the day yes, not these days unless the builder gapped the rings wrong.

You cant plumb it back to the sump or you'll get oil cavitation, what oil are you running?

Rebuildddddddddd itttttttttttttttttt, the time spent playing with the leakdown you could of had the engine out and stripped lol.

202 Blue with a 350 holly, this is POWA

Aside from what everyone has already said about RB25/26's if you have a spare 70 grand in the bank buy a 26B =) 500hp @ 13,000 rev's NA yewwwww But this is who you should listen to.