R6n350GT

Dont do it unless you have plenty of $$$ to spare... i thought oh yeah, $3300 hks turbo kit on special from $8000 i can do that. 3300 kit 4000 engine forged parts 3000 engine build bill 12 months later of no car car had issues, was told i need $400 in sensors, nope not it $2500 ecu, nope not it $2500 clutch, nope not it oh it was the cam the engine builder dropped and damaged $1500 later car runs but the guy that high flowed the tubro did it wrong Now i can run past 2psi until i take out turbo and get it fixed... (prob another $900-1500 not inc labor) Now labor i did alot myself so saved lots, transmission was in and out 3x and thats $800 at least in labor each time Fitting tubro to engine and putting it in the car, another $2000 at least Many auto electrician to figure out issues , $200 each time NOT WORTH IT, yeah i will have fun once its done but if i had known this ^^^^ i would avoid..

BC Racing stage 2 cams With hard start i can put stock ecu in and it will fire straight away. Cam advance solenoid output while engine off, no idea what you mean Ill try the ground shorting tomorrow. Cheers for the help

Some people dont even change anything but the fuel pump for turbo and SC so for just bolt ons no way do you need it. No E85 for you unless you get E85 fuel pump, return fuel line, larger injectors etc

As in whole new engine, turbo put in, engine run in and base tune. My issues previously was cam had tooth broken off and had cam sensor faults thus me replacing, ecu, clutch/flywheel, all sensors before it was realized it was the cam all along. Now that was fixed i got errors p0021 and p0011 constantly.. Tuner leaned it out top end as my L/100km was 14.7 Hwy driving no boosting! and changed the fuel in the bottom end "cold start up" or something. So with oil it did it on run in oil (penrite) and now its shell rotella t6 5w40 (used this all the time and never had issues). From my things to check list 1. 2 seal rings on the back of the cam cover (13035HC) Checked 2. cam position sensors (p0340 and p0345) my passenger side cam sensor is my old one as the new one had a upside down graph when tested so faulty ... i am ordering a new one but i would have code p0350 if it was that. 3. Clean or replace vct solenoids i cleaned the solenoids with brake cleaner, didnt take the mesh gauze off but sprayed it alot, 4. crank position sensor Its new and no code 5. Low oil New oil so its fine 6. Check all fuses Checked a while ago when chasing my original issues, all fine 7. Check all grounding esp timing cover x2 Both are on, good connection 8. Check timing chain firing Checked 9. Excessive rtv gasket blocking the oil passages and not getting to the cam gear THe mechanics job didnt look messy but none were found in the solenoids 10. (ohm meter and they were 7.7-7.8 ohms each), ground and apply 12v to see if they open I applied power to them and watched the solenoid open and close - fine 11. Check power at the plug (must rev motor to 2k+ for the plugs to have voltage) - Mine are at 12V no matter if on Acc, idle or reving past 2000rpm (i would like to see if others are like this..) 12. Check flywheel, if installed just before the errors started has been installed correctly Installed correctly 13. Check that the solenoids have a gasket fitted and is in good condition between it and the engine. - Mine did not have any gaskets, again a screw up by the engine builder So i think 11. is my issues, possibly 13. but doubt it, new ones are coming either way.

I was supposed to take it into the tuner today, but i cant get it started to get it there! I will try the stock ecu, the haltech i have is the new ecu replacement one. Anyone know the section in the Haltech software so i can see if VCT is being controlled ? Can anyone test their volts for me please ? ----------------------------- More info i have put together on p0011 and p0021 vq35de The comprehensive component monitor, referred to as the CCM, monitors the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) position for over-advanced cam timing. If the cam timing exceeds a maximum calibrated limit or is stuck in an advanced position, the check engine light will come on and set this trouble code. P0011 is: Intake Cam Position Timing Over Advanced - Bank 1 P0012 is: Variable Camshaft Timing Over Retarded - Bank 1 Possible Causes: Incorrect camshaft timing VCT solenoid valve stuck open or continuous oil flow to piston chamber Camshaft advance mechanism binding, or faulty VCT unit Symptoms: These codes usually result in rough idle, stall or hard start. A P0011 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: Incorrect camshaft timing Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open) http://www.obd-codes.com/p0011 Things to check 1. 2 seal rings on the back of the cam cover (13035HC) http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/mgrotel/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_7602.jpg 2. cam position sensors (p0340 and p0345) 3. Clean or replace vct solenoids http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/422691-p0011-error-code-cheap-cam-position-sensor.html 4. crank position sensor 5. Low oil 6. Check all fuses 7. Check all grounding esp timing cover x2 8. Check timing chain firing http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/vq35_cam_phaser_tdc_template.pdf 9. Excessive rtv gasket blocking the oil passages and not getting to the cam gear 10. (ohm meter and they were 7.7-7.8 ohms each), ground and apply 12v to see if they open 11. Check power at the plug (must rev motor to 2k+ for the plugs to have voltage) 12. Check flywheel, if installed just before the errors started has been installed correctly http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/292139-diy-clutch-install-part-ii-jwt-clutch.html Related errors p0300. The VTC solenoid gets energized at 2k+ RPM. This pushes a little piston into a resevior of oil. Through some mechanism, this rotates the intake cams and changes the timing. The piston in my solenoid was getting stuck in the energized position, even when the RPMs dropped and the voltage to the solenoid was not being applied. This means the cam timing was advanced on one bank and not on the other. At this point the ECU and physical cam timing were on different pages, causing a misfire

So ever since i got my car back i have two errors P0021 and P0011 The car got really hard to start , to the point battery almost went flat before it started.. Researching has lead to possible VCT solenoid faults.. Can anyone do me a big favour and get a multi-meter and test the plugs going to the VCT solenoids, what are the volts when on Acc, idle and if possible above 2,000rpm. Mine are 12V the entire time and im sure its only supposed to be 12V at 2000+ rpm... i can unplug both VCT solenoids and no difference to my car running.. rough idle no matter what and has difficulty on cold start. Any help please !

Also keen, there is a V& Z club on facebook so many more keen ppl, but if double demerits on the weekend there will be plenty of police so rather do it weekend before or after

Was a EOI ... Ill post some details later on tonight / tomorrow. Never will you see a more unique V35.. What price you got to spend?

Sold me $2000 warranty i could not use, a car that had oil issues, National Warranty Company are the biggest scam i have ever seen... I have learnt 3rd party warranties that have clauses like; consequential damage and normal wear and tear can avoid any warranty issues they like...

As long as you dont go to Nagoya you will be fine. IF you are planning on modding the car fine one that has already been done, it cost ALOT to mod these cars so save yourself some money and find a very well cared one.. Oh and do not use NWC National Warranty Company, they are a complete scam... for that matter dont bother with any 3rd party warranty company !

Nice job guys! I have some new sedan clear indicators i brought accidently for my coups if anyone is looking for some.

try using the left hand ballast on the right hand and see if its the ballalst

Buy my car lol, new turbo kit, new engine, new most things... still getting finished/tuned!

Im taking it to a shop that had fixed another friends car with similar issue so they had just done all the research and is fresh in their mind to take a look at my car. It wont drive off a cliff, id have to push it haha!

Yep i did the exact same thing too.. took it out, put it back in and it started.. for 2 mins.. then not again since.. even $5000 later

Why? I mean oil temp/pressure i get but water? our gauge is good enough lol

See in the diagram there the bolt holes are there is a little dowel pin inbetween two of the bolt holes? on the back of the flywheel there is a matching mark, my flywheel has the mark aligned with the dowel pin on the back of the engine. But awesome diagram if your not sure, easier then taking the trans off to check !!! I will double check but i did triple check when installing it.

Can be done two ways, a dial on the utec and a external switch that can fit where the spare sunroof slots are next to handbrake.. External switch i can sell with it

yeah i see that, looks like it was changed after the main one... I have no idea... I dont speak the mechanic anymore, he ripped me off and caused HUGE issues, stole from me,... My mate with another 350z Rev up also got him to rebuild his engine, had spun bearing, quoted $2000 to fix, was given invoice for $4000 (not even forged, just one new piston or rod i think and bearings) and installed the cams wrong, dont know who is going to pay for that but that was another $1000 in labour for a different mechanic to fix... MY car did initially start with stock ecu + old sensors + other competition clutch + utec with 750cc map (i have 800cc injectors) but it only ran for 1.30mins... then stalled (rpm slowly just died) I will check tomorrow but before all the new parts only #3 spark plug lead would fire every rotation, the others just once.. all coil packs were put in #3 lead and all fired everytime but the other leads did not... changed cam angle sensor over and i got all 6 to fire with the coil packs out but once all back in and crank over, it went back to just #3 working.. so thats why everyone is like WTF ...

Hey elton, lol the engine was acid bathed and then painted When installing the flywheel there is a locating mark in between the flywheel bolts, that mark HAS to line up with the locating pin on the back of the engine (where the flywheel bolts to) Then you clutch needs to go on a specific way to match up to the flywheel, mine had blue arrows on flywheel and clutch so you couldnt get it wrong.. This pic is close enough to show what im talking about http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY~G~C45827~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/138181779/138629620/138629625/138629629/34853741/100411974/34853743/34854017/34854562/160580380/188717324/154364928

Maybe you can see if it was done correctly, maybe not but here are pics from the build Heads

Lumley is who i am now with, car $30,000 $980 or something, $500 excess. With turbo $1500ish, windscreen cover, rating one protection. NRMA is a rip, i had 2 vehicles with them, they were not willing to price match anyone to keep my business, they didnt even ask the price match amount... Just car was $1400 but value $20,900. LSV rock !

Cams were 2000miles old (Brian Cowler Stage 2) from a working engine The bank 1 and bank 2 cams are different in length and each side cams look different, one has notches and one is just a round disc with no notches. They were all cleaned. So with your issue of needing the sensor moved around for it to start, if you unplugged it, then it would start without it? but are you saying with it plugged in but in the wrong position, it would not start ? So its better off receiving no signal Vs the wrong signal?? Re sensors, only the crank angle sensor will fit in the trans, drivers side (bank 1) senor is straight, the bank 2 passenger is 45 degree angle sensor. I have 3 sets, one all brand new, OEM Nissan, the others from the engine rebuilt, and the other set from my original engine.. I have tried them in all different combination I hope all these things im doing to try will get it going... Im getting a map hopefull from Mr Ritz from his Haltech plug and pro (i sent him a email) he has similar setup to me and same HKS kit. I will try the utec again, and my mate has the same kit and utec so im getting his tune today Only thing left after all these tests if it wont go is timing.. apparently you can only see what it is if you take off front timing cover and thats a pain

I have 6MT v35, engine from 350z 6MT, both 2003. I have tried two different clutches, both brand new, one in there now is exedy GTM twin plate I have tried both Haltech plug and play and stock ECU Tomorrow im going in to the shop where the car is, and testing all the things you say. I dont have a oscilloscope, i paid someone with one to check all my wiring the first time and he ended up saying the ecu drivers where not seeing a correct cam pattern. I have pics when engine was being built and the cams are in the right order (my mate has a revup and his engine builder messed up his cam order - had the exhaust and intake cams mixed), i think the non rev up cams are different as only the intake cams have the notches at the end the sensors pick up and in my pics when engine was built i can see the notches are the intake ones..

I forget which is which but i used what ever sensor worked with my plug, and the other one is the 350z one.