PaulosECR33

why not get the overhaul manual, guilt toy posted it up ages ago.. cant find it though.. step by step guide dismantle inspect reassemble.....

then i dont understand how someone could be running 350rwKW through a clutch rated to 400flywheel hp... 400 hp is pretty much 300kw which would mean it would only hold like 250 max.... if this is true then i guess the only option out of the 3 is the hhhdbc as hamish stands by it and the dude at northern brake and clutch also stands by it saying it will handle 330rwkw... anyone else using either a coppermix or hyper single plates????

do you want tein adjustables cos you think you will change the height frequently or because you want to use the different adjustments for performance gains for use on the track? bilsteins and springs and swaybars will be sick for street..

oright i looked all night last night for a thread which could help me but most of the threads that talk about super copper mix clutched talk about twin plates... right my question is... over all which is better? from all your experiances with them exedy hyper metal single clutch or nismo supper copper mix single plate clutch? exedy hyper single is rated to 400hp with 1200kg clamping force according to website.. found a thread where someone claimed to have 350rwkw using this clutch with no issues super copper mix is 420 ps (414 hp) and 1000kg clamping force, and i read a thread where simonr32 spoke very highly of single plate coppermix but i could not find power figures... are these specs engine hp or rwhp? as my aim is about 300rwkw (about 400RWHP) my other option is a exedy hhhdbc which Hamish uses and speaks very highly of... still going strong with 325rwkw i know there is a big price difference in the three but i would just like to get a better idea of their performance and what they are capable of before deciding. have chosen these as can get with trade discount through clutch supplier.. any help would be great

ah yeh. my mistake

yeh shockproof is the bomb.. i hate notchy and heavy shifting and that stuff is magic to a gearbox.. well worth the price.. i worked on a truck today that was really hard to shift into 1st and second and slight grinding.. (a synchronised box).... actually the boss made put a new exchange box as its under contract warranty... any way when that failed to fix it and we had an argument as i thohught the clutch was dragging and gbox was fine he let me diagnose it.. first off i checked the master and slave cylingers for bypassing fluid... all good, holds pressure, returns good.. etc then went on to check the clutch.. found that it was indeed clutch drag from besicly a defect in the clutch disc, anyway im not saying that is your problem but clutch dragging could cause your issues and it will take longer disengage drive and mesh the gear so maybe look into that, and if its all good at least you can be confident it is a gearbox issue first of all put some good oil in like jjman said. new oil works wonders on 25 boxes

lol

26 heads have solid lifters 25 heads i have HEARD have bigger ports... dont quote me on the ports though

v8 commodores arent that fast, they are heavy... they make good power pretty cheap but they are boring and common and a lot o them seem to all have the same mods.. i have one, with all the common mods lol.. good daily.. at least with jap cars in general there is a chance for everyone to have something a little more unique..

+1

edit i doubt it would only be first gear new oil is the first thing i would do.. see how that goes. i uae that redline shockproof stuff its great but its pretty pricey. be careful not to mix synthetic and mineral.. very bad things happen when u do that....

i should have added that.... when 1st gear synchro is worn it would be difficult or impossible to downshift into first without grinding..

doing synchros is a big job unless you know what your doing... im not questioning you ability but if your asking how hard it is then maybe you should pay someone to do it... parts alone are very cheap.. if your just doing synchros but when stripped the box may need bearings etc...

its weird you cant put itto gear though as although when cold the oil is thicker and all that. if you not moving the gearset will just stop eventually once the clutch is depressed so you should still be able to put it in, and reverse is not synchronised im pretty sure so depending on where the mainshaft stops it might not go in... plus if you have done synchros i would doubt 1st... from what i have seen mainly 2nd and 3rd gear synchros go due to ppl shifting real quick putting more stress on the synchros... does it have a short shifter or anything.. i had one for about a week and box got notchy... took it out, put standard one back in and is perfect again... +1 on oil i have also noticed that 25 boxes love new oil.. wat do you use jjman?

theres athread with a post with basic specs in the motorsport section drift and drag... man that vid is awesome.. and no nos on that run... easy 7s.... good luck !!!!!

why pay all the costs involved and all the trouple of finding and in importing it yourself.. have you looked around to see if any of the import companies will cater your needs... im sure there would be a couple that sell r32 gtrs.... and do you really think 380 - 400awkw AWD will have much grip in the wet... an aussie v8 might beat you due to its lack of power giving it more traction... its always about you right foot my gtst would have absolutely demolished my maloo when i did my first round of modification with just a 11 psi tune a fmic and a good exhaust. 4.11 gears a lighter car, smooth to drive and easier to control, but if your set on a gtr then go for it ans good luck.. still say a built rb26 with -5s will be enough.... do you want to drift it or street race it... cos its sorta sounds like you want a car that can do everything

its all up to the OP any way he asked what we recommend but if he has his mind made up then good on him.. +1 to pics too

got my turbo on friday its a gt3082 with a .63 housing, also got a oil and water line kit for it.. hopefully manifold this week or next and things will get moving again.. tbe hardest part is waiting for the money to buy stuff lol... things i will be getting in teh next few months will be -New radiator bigger core maybe a 2 pass if i can get one. -1.5 way diff -brake upgrade, only tonight i read up on d2 8pot upgrade and that looks ok, but for now it will probably just be pad and new discs, maybe 326mm with caliper spacers. -exedy hyper single clutch -found this cool looking catch can/washer bottle on just jap, bit pricey though although not as expencive as the rips one -suspension setup. am lost with what to do here , it will be street driven to and from the track and im interested in drifting it so will have to look in the suspension forum to check out what i need there.. from my experiance in making commodores slide i need a tight as fcuk rear end and a loose front and more negsative camber induces more oversteer on the front, will have to do some research for the 33 though -i am also keen on getting a fake gtr front bar as i like them better. when i get the manifold ill post some pics of fitting her up & the oil and water lines to the turbo

that is awesome.. what a weapon

they are cheap and from Duncan said it seems they are defenantly worth the money i may look into them now after doin a bit of searching there is lots of good feedback

lol all you guys that have experienced all the different chassis and models are lucky... i ha ve to say r33 is easy to drift but thats comparing to my old cars, a vx with a spool and a volvo 360 glt..... the 33 was amazing haha would love to try an s chassis if what everyone says is true.. i think the long wheel base makes it more fun

i know there is no real standard as everyone like different looks and stuff but thats nice i think.... lol no spacers and only $850 a few weeks ago on here with tyres.. but as Arthur T3 said just stick spacers in your ones...

r33 gtr wheels (17 x 9 +30 ) have a good fitment in my opinion and fit without any guard rolling...

on the home from work on wednesday i had to wait at a green light for some dickhead in a VT who decided to do a burnout accross an intersection and nearly take out a van. i just hate it when you see people like that get away with endangering so many ppls lives when we cant even go for a drive... i reckon the police just pick on us as skylines are stereo typed because of a minority of dickheads. we are exploited by the media as skylines are so popular and are also easily distinguished so when a cop on the news or a journo writes that a group of skylines, every one else probably thinks a bunch of white or grey, dirty and molested 33s doing burnouts. it sucks cos probably 90% of the time is dirty executive commodore auto pieces of crap doing single peggas down busy streets

maybe you should buy the car.. which ever one you want first and see how it goes instead of having all these plans with no car to put them into.... you may be suprised with how well you can make it go by just rebuilding the rb26 with forgies etc and -5s or something would save you heaps of cash... once again whats your power goal?