PaulosECR33

Say no to body kits...

this is my dyno graph with the plenum, link g4 and supporting mods, timing is very conservative, I cant comment on this is over other peoples graphs and setups as i have never really been interested in dyno figures looked and dont know, all i can say is it just wants to keep going..

much difference with the plenum from your old setup?? Like i said i dont have any results before i fitted the plenum but the guys who tuned it reckon it made a massive difference to response and top end compared to others they have tuned with standard plenums.

if anyone has a pair of work vs mx in 17 x 9 they want to get rid of please pm me im after offsets between +5 and +15 even if you have 17x8 +35 i am interested as i can widen them to my desired width and offset. in any condition, i am in melbourne can pick up and pay cash thanks

i never got a power figure before and the plenum went on with all the other mods, it making 265rwkw at 16psi at the moment but i dont know how much of that is attributed to the plenum when i fitted it i did it over a few weeks as the car was not running anyway, i would say 3 hours to remove old plenum and fit new one nicely but all the hoses and lines i did over a longer period of time, you would easily get it done in a weekend providing you have everything you need.

+1 for redline shockproof, i think it is well worth the price if you dont want to rebuild the box, and autobarn do sell it

R33 s2 manual motor internally stock 73,000kms, gt30/82 .63 740cc injectors (high flow) link g4 peak boost around 17psi at 5,000rpm drops to 16psi at 6,700rpm injectors playing up so did not raise boost not a lot of timing.

And if by any chance they are still for sale and you decide to sell the rears to R33 -20s i will buy the fronts off you.

take cover my friend......

if it goes away when u press clutch it could be input shaft, check condition of gearbox oil and maybe replace oil and see if it makes a difference...

finally

man trade school was the best.... thats where i got my snap ring pliers

welcome

i can finally go on one now my car is done, will hopefully be there

so there are people who can adjust points and people who dont know anything... what about people who know about ignitions systems designed after the 1980s.......also which one of these two groups works on diesels cos last time i checked they dont have point or coils, or spark plugs... if you just weld these massive guards over your standard ones and actually want to fill them out with aggresive offset wheels you will either have to have the car at a ghey height (Ie too high) or have like 500kg spring rate so you dont smash your origional guards.. but whatever go for it it seems like you have alot of support....

i cant wait to go to some events with a huge nissan flag, no matter what car they decide to use, (i wish they would use GTRs but i doubt it) it will make the category interesting again.. does those new rules for future race cars require live axle and watts linkage ?

I have a bunch of pics i took while doing this so i thought i would post them up... hopefully it will help some ppl who decide to get one of these Before you go ahead with this mod know that cold side intercooler piping to your throttle body has to be modified whether you can do this yourself or not i obviously dont know so i cant assist in that part of the install, all i can show you is what i did there. Tools you will need to do this: Screw drivers (flat and phillips head). Socket and ratchet set (minimum 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm sockets and a ratchet). Side cutters. Pointy nose and standard pliers. A hose cutter makes cutting the vac, coolant and fuel lines easier. Ultra blue liquid gasket. Vasoline or rubber grease. A decent spanner set. Soldering iron. This is probably minimum but the more tools the merrier. Extra parts besides plenum: Nissan part number 23785-57Y00 (aac gasket) 1/2 vacume hose Bag of cable ties 3/8 EFI hose 1m 1/4 vacume hose 3m 3/4 oil/coolent hose 1m Various clamps to suit if you dont want to reuse your old ones i would get a pack of different size hose clamps as rb25s are getting old and i think the clamps they use are S*** anyway. 3/4 (19mm) hose 1m A weld on 19mm hose fitting (i used a -10 alloy weld on fitting and a -10 3/4 pushlock fitting but you dont have to) Masking tape. Small amount of electrical wire The main reason i bought this plenum is because it has front facing throttle body so i could shorten my cooler piping. it also keeps the longer runners unlike alot of other ones, it make spark plug changes a 5 minute job, it makes it very very easy to change injectors (i have since done this and all you have to remove is idle control valve, the pcv line and injector loom to get your fuel rail off, and last of all feel its the best looking front facing plenum for rb25s but thats just me. *note you will obviously have to have cold side cooler piping made up to suit the new location of the throttle body i did mine myself but didnt take any pics. Images uploeaded this way as they are huge Right so i started with my standard plenum and fmic Got my new plenum, comes with studs to mount, a gasket and many different size screw in hose tails for vac line, idle control valve etc. all of the air fittings are on the underside so it looks neat once fitted and there are fittings to suit cold idle control valve and aac + brake booster, fuel reg and hoses for carbon canister Fist things first drain the coolant and disconnect the battery. Remove throttle body, coolant lines, all air lines and the two fuel lines (feed and return) from engine, you will have to drain the coolant as the bleeder and many coolant lines need to be moved. also remove your idle control valve. Next remove you standard plenum this is done by removing the 9 bolts (4 on left and 5 on the right under the plenum) that secure it to the lower runners, remove the old rubber gasket and tape over the runners so you dont drop anything down them. you have to drill the threads out of the 4 holes on the left hand side of the runners as the plazmaman plenums studs wont fit through, i used a 9mm drill bit to drill them out, make sure your tape is still over the runner holes so no alloy shavings drop down. I taped up the plenum to minimize scratches while fitting it, make sure you use thread a thread locker on the studs and some sort of thread seatant (tape or goo) on the hose tail fittings. remove the tape covering the runners, fit the new gasket, (i also used ultra blue one the gasket) fit the plenum and tighten the 9 nuts, you may need a stubby spanner to get to some of them tightened Ok the next bit is hard to see. run two new fuel lines to the rail and fuel reg you can run them how ever you want i routed mine in between the cyl 1 and 2 runners so its all neat all i can show is the new fuel line on the reg. Make sure you use EFI hose and clamps. I also changed my fuel filter at this stage but this is not necessary. The plenum i bought retains the standard throttle body but if you buy the larger one i assume fitment is the same, fit the throttle body and throttle cable, i reused the gasket as there was nothing wrong with it. Next run new coolant lilnes, one goes to a fitting right next to the coolant system bleeder, the other runs around to the back of the head, is not hard to find remember to put hose clamps on them, cable tie hose and secure it so it wont rub through on anything. I made an l shaped bracket to mount the bleeder on, what ever you do make sure that this remains the highest part of teh cooling system. Next fit the idle control valve, the way everything is designed lets you use the origional hoses under the plenum so fit all these up and fit the valve, if your gasket is in ok condition you can reuse it, or you can get one from nissan part number is 23785-57Y00, you can also get them all over the net, i had gasket paper so i made my own and added a little ultra blue. tighten up the bolts. right behind the aac valve there is a threaded hole into the plenum you can block this or use it for a vacume line, i used this for my map sensor how ever i have no pics of it, Now run all of your new vacume hoses to fuel reg, pcv line, carbon canister, bov and brake booster. you will have to run these according to your set up i dont have a bov so i just ran my fuel reg and carbon canister lines so they cannot be seen. all of these hoses are either 1/8 or 1/4 hoses. use the 1/2 hose for brake booster line there is a one way valve inside the origional booster hose you MUST remove and put in your new longer hose, if you dont you will have no power assisted brakes and you will die. to get it out i simply cut the hose open. but it is a very tight fit into your new hose and using vasoline or rubber grease helps installing it.. when fitting this line make sure you put it around the right way so air can be sucked OUT of the booster but once your engine is on boost the valve closes and no air can get back in the booster, you can do this by blowing through the hose and seeing which way blocks it. This pic shows how i routed my carbon canister lines from the fitting under the plenum, out to the engine bay fuse box, and around past the overflow tank up to the radiator support then over the radiator to the canister, but as i said this bit depends on your setup, The fuel reg simply goes under the front of the plenum and the end is just visible here. This is the one part i cant help you too much with, the cold side intercooler piping, i made mine myself, hence the unattractive welds (it was my first time tig welding lol), so if your a handy welder you can do this yourself or you can buy some alloy pipe and cut it up into the shape you want and get it welded up for you. i used two 2 60mm tight radius alloy donuts and a short straight section of 60mm pipe, cut them up with a band saw and slowly make up the entire pipe before welding it up. this pipe is where you can put your 19mm fitting for you aac hose. my one is the speedflow fitting on the top with the hose going back to the aac valve. there is another fitting on my intercooler pipe, this is for my intake air temp sensor, as i am running a link g4 with map sensor i need this, so it is not necessary for all setups. Last thing to do is plug in your loom, i ran mine under the intake runners to keep it neat, everything reaches bar one plug for your aac valve which has to be lengthened, about 2 inches. the image shows that extra length you need. the image also shows my first attempt with the enngine harnes cable tied to the fuel rail, you can do this but its much neater under the manifold. Once you have your intercooler pipe, fit it up and tighten your clamps, check over everything to make sure you have left nothing loose, no hoses off, plugs not connected loose hose clamps. nothing out of place? ok fill up your coolant and bleed the system, prime your fuel system as you will have drained the fuel from your lines when you replaced them, (just turn the key to on and wait until the fuel pump stops buzzing), check again for any coolant or fuel leaks and if its all ok start the engine, check for any vacume leaks, you will hear a hissing noice from the plenum thats normal, i use brake cleaner in a pressure pack to check by spraying around the plenum and on any other bits i touched, if the engine revs up at any point you are leaking vacume and must fix this problem before continuing, i recommend getting a tune after this, my tune was safe to drive hard with with the new setup but i dont know if yours will be so drive gently to your tune and thrash at your own risk. This was my finished product. just need to learn to tig better so i can make some better looking pipes... Thanks for reading hope this can elp some ppl in the future

thanks for that i did not think of the volume of air getting sucked in to the turbo, just whats getting pushed into the engine. cheers

i am not having a dig ant anyone making diy airboxes and sorry for hijacking your thread i just want to kno why everyone is so worried bout hot air in the intake of a turbo charged car... when air is compressed it gets really hot anyway, then it goes through the intercooler which obviously cools it... i have intake temp sensor on my cold side intercooler piping as i know heaps and heaps of other ppl here do also, i decided to see if there was any difference between stock air box and a pod, charge air temp was 16 C with pod and 15 C with air box boost was 16 psi and it was like 27 c day 1 degree is nothing when the correction for inlet air temp doesn's start till over 40 in my tune,

pistons travel further in a stroker, hence longer stroke.. from bottom to top dead centre

great size wheel will look awsome

why is it dumping 2x fuel it should be into the exhaust? if it is overfueling heaps then theres no way it will pass have you got bigger injectors in it or something?