Commsman

Dump should be number 1 priority, for both performance, economy & increasing turbo life. A cat-back does help significantly & you will see what we mean when you look at the factory mufflers, especially the HUGE one in the middle of the car. Weight saving along is worth the upgrade, lol. After that, the mid (front?) pipe can be changed for one with a hi-flow cat & there will be more (but lesser) gains. If you do this, get an exhaust bung for wideband sensor welded in at the same time. Stick with any off the shelf filter in the factory airbox as suggested above. IMO if you notice a performance gain just by choosing one filter over another, it's purely placebo.

I read this & thought "doesn't he know that's illegal in this country", lol. Good luck with the car sale.

Mine was like that. Wait a 1000 kms or so & it'll get louder; or more noticeably the note gets deeper.

Haha, oops sorry, I forgot what the original problem was. My favourite mechanic shop will check/clear my codes for free, so maybe ask around.

Paul, paid too.

Welcome Michael . Did you just polish it? Looks really shiny in that pic.

FishingFreak meet SkyRkt http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/383032-vicm35-bc-coilovers/ May not be Jazz option tho

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261557-ecu-fault-codes-the-easy-way/ G35_350Z_ClearingCodes.pdf

Just another M35 mystery then .

Haha, I love the use of the term 'styled'. Like trailer parks sometimes get 'styled' by tornados .

What's the story behind the car with the truck exhaust? It must be a joke...

Maybe because a decent amount of boost would bleed out of that pipe....?

When I first put the BC's on the front, almost all the tire disappeared inside the guard. My son said to leave it like that, but I wouldn't have been able to get down the drive. It's often a compromise between fashion & practicality. Good to see some guys don't care about being practical (no speed bumps in his neck of the woods?) so we can admire awesome lowness .

Yeah, that's a good kit but I just use Brasso. <$10 & ~20mins

Is that an indicated 110 or a real 110? Either way it sucks on the highway. I have one which won't allow more than 240, supposedly. How will I know if the car is limited anyway..lol.

Firstly, lots of shiny stuff looks nice... Secondly, extra O2 sensors for each bank of cylinders I get. But why are the holes all on the one pipe? Shouldn't there be 2 pipes with 2 sensor holes each or does that pipe come apart? Can't wait to see it all go together, good luck.

Hi Frank, the new tuners come with aerials (Asuka's didn't) but you shouldn't need them if your car has JDM TV. Since you're in SA, you could contact Brad (Ducati02) because I think he has at least one of my tuners available ATM. If not, get back to me & I can send you one if you want. Cheers, Leon.

I agree, nothing to worry about. Rich AFR & still duty cycle to spare so headroom for more performance. Nice one.

Andy, those AFR numbers are pretty darn good. Off boost & mid range is very close to what I'm running. Upper end of rev range / max boost is a little rich compared to what I found works best for my car, so you have a nice buffer to increase boost safely. Did you get a look at max injector duty cycle now?

Nice result & keen to hear what the AFRs are like after running around for a while. Mmm, more boost

Not yet Mike as there isn't any suitable dyno around here. I will probably go to the Gold Coast before Christmas, possibly to Chip Torque but open to recommendations from anyone from around there. I'm not really a numbers guy as I'm more about what it's like to drive, but am curious nonetheless.

Hey Andy, that's a big change. Are the AFR's that rich throughout, or mainly heading towards redline?

Here's what I have learnt from lots of reading & a fair bit of experimenting. This is info that I wish was available specifically for our M35's when I started playing around. But really there's nothing new here. One day I might write up a budget build thread for those who, like me, want more power without sacrificing fuel economy & without spending a fortune. To answer your question: 1) A good wideband meter; preferably one that has a programmable narrowband output. I like the one from http://14point7.com/Products.php. You might have seen that I remote mounted the display on a length of ribbon cable, but you could just stick it on your steering column till you get the AFRs right, before tucking it away under the dash. Or buy their 52mm gauge for an extra $50. 2) A method of adjusting AFR's. I've used a Jaycar kit (voltage modifier) but the above website also has a UAFC with 3 individual maps which can be switched on the fly. It looks really good for the money. Once you have the above in & working (~$400) you can tune the car on road (or dyno of course) for both power & economy. That should form the basis of tuning future mods up to whatever power level you want to go, given the right performance hardware. (Note to self - expect flame war, lol) If you want to go further: 3) New & larger intake (suction pipe) will make a vast difference to the breathing of the engine. You can tune the AFR's perfectly well using points 1 & 2, but you will find that you will be running lean at the top end. In fact some guys will say they are running lean without a suction pipe. I should mention that most intakes will cause the AFM voltage to max out, hence the reason that guys at that stage start looking at E-manage or F-con etc., so they can use a MAP sensor. It doesn't have to be that way... 4) A fuel pressure regulator (rising rate) increases the amount of fuel that is squirted thru the injectors at any given duty cycle. Straight away I had to decrease my AFM adjustments because it was running too rich. Now my injector duty cycle doesn't go above 90% (had reached 100% previously) plus I can run any AFR's I want, at any load point, including at the very top. So fuel delivery (still stock fuel pump) is not an issue with standard turbo (now at ~16.5psi). 5) Boost control. The factory boost control is pretty good but you can get a bit more out of it by tinkering a bit. Obviously if I wanted to go larger turbo with much higher boost I know I would need larger injectors. But even then I don't believe I will need to change my method of engine management (AFM voltage modifier + standard ECU) if I am sensible with the size of the injectors. OK, so points 3 & 4 will cost about $200 if you DIY & boost control costs say $100 & up. Best thing is there is absolutely no trade off. My power is way up, driveabilitiy is factory smooth, throttle response is outstanding and economy is better. Haha, I just looked at how much I typed and maybe I should have started that new thread after all . I'll shut up now, but I hope this gives you something to think about. Cheers, Leon. PS. There are plenty of benefits with choosing a higher end solution (eg E-manage / F-con), like cam timing & probably heaps more that I don't know about. So what I wrote above doesn't mean I think those solutions have no merit. It is just my interpretation of the question. Also, my slightly unique situation (no tuner or dyno near by), & modding ethos, means most of these other solutions were not given serious consideration. Whew, possible flame war averted, lol.

BTW, nice wing Jase

Yes, a waste of money IMO. You'd be better off spending the $350 on real mods to improve the throttle response. Did you see the claim: Enhances throttle response OR fuel saving of up to 20% ? I suppose 2% is 'up to 20%'....