Reflector

Glad someone said it. 1200 grit is waaaayyyy too course... Unless you are planning on sanding the panel back for priming and a re-paint

Notice to Moderators: I accidentally posted this in the Queensland thread the other day. I reported myself to notify an administrator to move it here which for some reason has cut off my ability to edit the post. If a mod is reading this, please feel free to delete the post in the Queensland section and my apologies for a Double posted topic. Hey all, First off I've done a bit of detailing over the past few years and there's nothing I enjoy more than getting compliments on how well my cars have looked. I mostly hand detailed before until my dad picked up a mothers wax attack. I used it a couple of times and thoroughly enjoyed the ease of machine buffing but noticed much sooner than later this product really didn't cut the grade for what I needed it to do. I invested in a Concours 900 DA buffer from Waxit (with Lake Country and Menzerna compounds to suit) and I couldn't be happier with the results. Thought I'd just post up some results for all those people that like to check out photos. Keep in mind, I got this side fender from a panel beaters and as well as a big ding in it, it had flaking paint etc... so the test spot is a little askew haha. As you can see it's in pretty poor condition. Swirls and scratches clearly evident. This was after I washed and clay barred the right side. A couple of passes using Orange lake country pad and Menzerna Power Finish. There's a picture missing between the last photo and the next one but the step involved Grey Lake country pad with Menzerna Final Finish. Swirls and Scratches seem to have been removed fairly good. Reflective finish is always rewarding . Comparison shot of 50/50 before and after (around the other way) I could have spent a lot more time and there's a few steps I missed out on (like waxing) just because I didn't want to waste too much on a crummy pos fender (it was a off a ford anyway) .

It's over a week... RESULTS

Spotted a HEAP of skylines at Carsindale shops for a JDM meet.... few that I've seen on the forum. Who owns the Silver R33 series II with the clear plastic lenses on their front indicators? Extremely jealous of those and what appeared to be brand new headlights

I personally would be going for the 1998 40th Anniversary Edition. Going by the description (and the photos) it appears the owner has spared no expense at maintaining the car to a reliable standard. The owner has used quality parts for most upgrades and just having done a major timing belt service, new coil, plugs etc... suggests to me they have taking great pride in their car. The red one looks nice, very presentable underbonnet layout and has quite a few mods done to it. With what's been installed, it would more than likely be possible to get it tuned for a higher kw output. That being said like others have pointed out, why the rebuild? And I recall seeing this car on here, would be curious to know why the owner would spend $Xxxx on a full re-build then sell it... I think you'd receive more attention from the boys in blue with the red one. Ultimately it comes down to what YOU are after... Personally: 1998 - Clean looking, quality parts, well maintained, room for upgrades, newer model and (if genuine) less kms 1994 - Presented nicely for show, possibility of increasing power with additional tune, most mods (including wheels and body kit already done. Make sure you check log books and service history for both vehicles, and if you can, do a revs check to make sure everythings in order. My two cents.

Flights on my holiday were cut back by 8hrs... while disappointed about a shorter holiday, it gives me 6hrs to sleep and a definite 'I'm in!.

Been pulled over once in over a year for an under bonnet inspection and got complimented on the car instead. Other than that, just license check and occasional (unavoidable) rbt station.

Hell no! - I used that turtle wax kit the first time round, headlights fogged over worse that before. Granted, it took the yellow stain out a bit (but not completely) however it didn't make clearer. I used the Inivion Restore Kit to correct the damage the turtle wax one did. I recommend that kit to anyone wanted to do the sanding method... believe it's made by Philips

+1 To this. I myself do inspections (3rd apprentice) at work for customers which gives them a heads up on all the finer details that may not be mentioned in the sales pitch. A lot of people find out when it's too late. Advice - If you cannot (and I mean CANNOT) physically afford/get to a mechanic to get an inspection, the VERY LEAST you can do is make sure the owner has a log booked history of the car and mechanical repairs made to it and is sold registered and road worthied.

Look forward to seeing the results. I used a kit on my headlights and spent a couple of hrs doing it properly. Worked like a charm to the point of compliments from other skyline users.

This is getting wayyy too close to home. And you, majority of these cars (and others) seem to be being stolen by late teens to early 20's, thrashed, then horribly mangled. So sorry for your loss. Hope you had insurance and it is honored.

Just pre-ordered my LCE today, 1 day before release . I would like to thank Jb Hi-fi for still taking orders, EB games basically told me every store sold out of copies, that was it.

Red R33 and a Black R33 traveling north bound on Bruce highway between 12:15-12:45pm. Was on the opposite side of the highway heading back to Brissie

Thanks for the input everyone, getting some very valuable information and personal reflection of the combinations out there. In regards to Room42's post. I am well aware of the supporting mods to go with the high HP/KW output. I have a list already set up to get the supporting mods. The replacement of the turbo was mainly because If anything was to go first, it'd be that component. Everything else on my car is well maintained and up to scratch. I COULD settle on an ECU as my first contribution towards the set up as I could get it tuned as such and still be able to run my current components. I have an excedy HD clutch installed (by previous owner) yet I'm inclined to either strip it down or send it away for repair (which ever works out cheaper in the end) because the syncros on 4th are starting to grind and not engage smoothly. That being said, it's still quite acceptable to drive as it only happens intermittently. What I've gathered so far is: 1. Forget those kits if I want a quality set up 2. If it's garrett, make sure its 6 (twin) bladed compressor for the GT3076R 3. There's other high quality substitutes with good performance I have to ask though, why would some people say that an aftermarket (6boost etc...) manifold would not be worth the upgrade? I can only see a boost in exhaust flow and performance increase... unless the pipings too big to create a good velocity in air flow or the pipes are different lengths...

Well I think I'll be doing a few PM's and emails to accompany my search. Few more questions: 1. What is the physical capability of max power the GT3076R can make? Although it says 480hp on that PARTICULAR page, I've stumbled on a few different power ratings. 2. What brand wastegate would people recommend? 3. Is it worth looking into the GTX range of Garrett?

Hey all, Extremely sorry but I couldn't find any other appropriate places to post this. I figure you have to be on a PC/MAC/PHONE to view it this it is 'PC related'. Just throwing this out there to see if any fellow skyline enthusiasts (who appreciate music) would be willing to help a fellow musician out Myself and a friend entered a competition with a late entry, only 1 week to get votes. Have a listen to our cover here Alex and Jake - The Kooks - Is It Me Cover. If you're willing to help us out, just log into your facebook or twitter account and give us a vote Also, if you like it, would you mind spreading the word? After as many votes as possible in the shortest amount of time haha. Thanks everyone

$2500 on a manifold? Don't think so. I've seen them priced up to $1000 and through rocket industries I can get a performance ensure one for around $600-$700. There's no way keeping a stock manifold would be better flow and performance than an upgraded and equal pipe sized manifold. I have considered internally wastegated but what is the difference? One less component? Are the wastegate springs still interchangeable?

My budget isn't exactly limited in the sense that I would go for crap over quality. My initial thoughts were that these kits stated Garrett turbos that were ball bearing and not the thrust style (being what the cheap ones are made with). I'd be inclined to spend around $2500 including the wastegate, turbo and exhaust manifold, however, as stated, I wouldn't go for some cheaper if it was only a couple of hundred in the difference. I'm pretty confident in saying that between 300-350rwkw is a sensible power figure for a tough streeter so that's what I'd be aiming for. Well aware of the 'quality' of some eBay stockest, but for reference, who would you recommend (if any) for a turbo, manifold and wastegate set up? Even if individual sellers.

Hi all, Just wanting to get some personal/first hand opinions on which of these two kits I'd be better off with for my R33 GTS-T Series II GT3582R http://www.ebay.com....=item2a111c6483 Or GT3076 http://www.ebay.com....=item2ea92a724f (and before anyone mentions it) I'm aware slight modifications and a water/oil kit is required. I'm also preparing to do more upgrades as time goes by and at first I'm not expecting to be reaching the full potential of these turbos. Basically, I'm looking at these two kits to replace my stock turbo and exhaust manifold. I'm under the assumption with a little modification I'll be able to fit either of these kits on and still running my other stock components if I don't push the boost up and overload my current set up. (car is currently making 215rwkw on stock) What I'd like to know is which set up is better? Both are the same amount of $$ however the performance for the GT3582R is rated at 550hp and the GT3076 is 480hp. My future plans involve a target aimed at 300+rwkw so I think both kits would be capable of achieving that power down the track. What's better IN YOUR OPINION? Many thanks in advanced.

Thanks for posting this. Results look promising and up to what I'd consider top quality. I'll be looking into this as I was about to start getting quotes to have my wheels restored then powder coated but by the look of this work, I'd setting for gutting rash fixes and new paint coating

R34 GT-R flying past at main intersection on compton rd about 7:40am this morning also spotted an R33 with the bonnet up at the Matilda Petrol station on logan rd about 7:50am

How crazy are we talking? The link is broken that you've posted

! This is the day after I get back from overseas.... stuff jet lag, must.... attend.... cruise.... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Spotted a Red R33 at first choice liquor yesterday (parked next to you) And... Spotted a Black R35 GTR cruising around waterford...of all places ! Number plates were 'DAMIAN' Or something like that

I have mostly everything stock on my RB25DET but I love the sound of upgraded cams and wanted some extra power. Put you in perspective. Car previously made 204rwkw on dyno before upgrade. After poncam upgrade and a 100cpsi cat the car now makes 214.8rwkw. So there's not a huge difference for the money, BUT, my torque curve improved more and is definitely more noticeable through mid range RPM. All in all you'll get people telling you they don't make a difference and there's no point upgrading or others saying it is worth it. I consider it a good mod and I personally love the sound of my car after the upgrade