Reflector

Well I can see a few non anti-surge models there and it IS currently August... that being said, nothing released on anything that I want atm haha

Waterlines perhaps lol? Yeah I was more inclined to get the T67 but I thought retaining water cooling would be for keeping it nice and cool. I can't seem to find any that are non anti-surge that he has for sale...

Thanks for the replies guys. I decided I'll probably go with a watercooled turbo which, while searching, I found this: TD06H w/ Garrett T04R How would this compare to the TD06SL2? The only difference I can really find is the size of the compressor wheel and the turbine wheel. The T04R has a larger compressor wheel by 6mm and a larger turbine wheel by 6.2mm. Would I be correct in thinking the smaller wheels on the TD06SL2 would allow the turbo to spool up slightly quicker? Both are '400-650hp' rated so if the TD06SL2 spools quicker I'd be mad not to go for it as this will be a street build rather than track... thoughts?

Hi all, Sorry if this has been covered but after 120 pages (starting at page 1) I couldn't find what I was after and have given up on searching -_-' Quick overview - R33 RB25det S2 Stock turbo has blown, now buying everything required to get her up and running at 300rwkw+ on 98oct BP ultimate. All the other mods I am ok with (6boost manifold, 850cc injections, greddy style intake etc...) except for two things - Wastegate and Turbo Choice. Simons write up and numerous results have made the T67 very appealing and I see it's only being released in anti-surge now; that's not the issue though haha! I just wanted to ask anyone with a T-67, what did you do to have the turbo only running on oil feed? Did you have to weld/close up the water supply lines from the stock turbo? Isn't it better to have a water cooled turbo to keep the oil from 'coking'? As it is, I'm torn between these two turbos: T-67 Or TD06 I'm finding the TD06 more appealing as it is water cooled as well as oil fed. It also seems to have close specs to the T-67 but I couldn't seem to find any recent dyno sheets of performance results. Is it closer to or further from the performance of the T-67? Is full boost still to be expected around 4000rpm from either turbo? As for wastegates, I have a selection that are available to me and I'm wondering what's best? (keeping in mind this will be used in conjuction with a 6boost manifold and the target goal of 300rwkw+) GFB EX 50mm Or TiAL MV-R Or Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm 2011+ model Many thanks in Advanced!

No need. Hacker came into the server within less than 5mins of being in, teleported to everyone then killed them within 10secs apart. That being said, Me and 2 mates had to start again and ended up coming into an 8vs3 battle. We won as I survived on 2900blood. Highlights: I had a blood pack, found a gilli suit, protected the corpse's and my mate got his coyote back-pack back. Time to be a grass ninja.

EVERYTHING and I mean EVERYTHING to do with DayZ has to run as Administrator. This Includes: Steam (assuming you have ARMA II and OA via steam) When Installing SIX updater or DayZ Commander When Running SIX updater or DayZ commander If you can't get it to update to the latest version you can manually try using My advice is use DayZ Commander and keep an eye on the percentage of servers running specific versions. To everyone else, FINALLY had a good haul last night. Played for an hour or so at nighttime and managed to get everything needed to survive in the wilderness. Now off to some army barracks to find some night vision goggles and perhaps some mobile transportation

I've been playing this mod for about 2weeks now. Here's a hint, don't trust ANYONE bearing a weapon -_-' Gathered heaps of shit for 2days then had two guys walk up yelling 'Friendly, friendly!' Then one went behind me and hit me with a crowbar. It's good fun but after the recent patch last night, I think there might be a memory leak or something. I dropped from a constant 50fps+ down to 13fps. Nothing I could do to fix it, deleting the dayz folder was a temp solution... for about 40mins.

^^ THAT... Is abosolutely beautiful. I'm waiting to get my hands on a new bottom Snap-on roller cab. Have a limited edition bathurst top box but have run out of room with my small snap-on roller.

Hummers down the coast are close enough lol

There's a lot of arguments that those newer Recon3d series aren't good because they lack what the old X-fi titaniums have; Hardware Acceleration. To be completely honest, I think it's a brilliant card (coming from a razer baracuda AC-1). Audio is crisp, plently of bass and the clarity between tones is supurb. That being said, I've coupled my card with a set of sennheiser 598's and Logitech Z-5500 speakers running optical out. I gave up on conventional gaming headsets and went with a studio quality set + a Zalman $15 clip on mic - in short, excellent transition

Saw multiple skylines in moss st and randle st today about 4:15pm, anyone here own a black 34 with clear alteza style rear lights?. Also got pulled over by the boys in blue. Just a warning to anyone cruising in that area (especially peak hour and on fridays) they're setting up regular stations in the back streets. The cops ran over my car and their only gripe was my exhaust as quoted: Cop 1 'What do you think?' Cop2: 'It makes my head rumble'. Minor defect -_-' though it's at my own descretion to get it sorted. They weren't bad either, hands down they could have pulled out a dB meter and done it on the spot but they complemented me on my car instead .

Well... I bought (and built) this with the intention of my tax return paying off the credit card (-_-') so... Level 10 GTS Is a BRILLIANT case (imho). That's the case I opted for and it ticks all the boxes

34psi is too low for high profile tyres. Have always run 38-40psi in my 18" and never had a problem. That being said, the problem seems to have gone away. After jacking the car up and releiving the coils of the load, my ride seems back to it's relatively firm state. Also was able to drive it through similar conditions (ie wet weather) and the same path on the weekend and there didn't seem to be a re-occurance of the problem. Perhaps the coils temporarily got stuck? Will be aware in any sudden change though if it happens again.

To my knowledge the springs in the coils control/can be adjusted to vary the ride hieght which is adjust before being put into the car. I'm nearly certain that means that the actual spring itself does not vary in stiffness. The damping adjustment controls both rebound and compression - effectively what a shockie would do in a shock and spring style set up. I'm sure they'd have the information on the BC racing website.

I would double check your mechanics work. I myself am a 3rd year apprentice mechanic and I can tell you I've seen some pretty weird and scary things done by 'Qualified Mechanics'. Those wear marks look as though a surface as hard (or harder) than the rotor itself has been making contact on there. Check to see that the pads have been put in the right way around with the correct surfaces facing the rotor. As unbelievable as it sounds, some people install (I don't know how you possibly could) the pads around the wrong way. It does happen. Also, do NOT rub your pads on concrete. By some fine grade sandpaper and rub the contact surface on the pad on there in a 'Figure of 8' motion until the surface of the pad has become lighter in colour and consistant across the whole face. EDIT: Either that or your mechanic didn't bed the brakes in and (if) they had a titanium strip it's slowly been making contact. Though I wouldn't think it'd last too long.

Hey all, So I was driving home on friday afternoon in the rain when suddenly I started to feel my rear shocks oscilations much much more than usually. I thought I may have punctured a tire from a pot hole or some other debris so I pulled over. Inspected my tires, all seemed fine. Checked my tire pressures, were a bit low so today (after not driving since friday) pumped them up to 40psi (235/R18s all round) and took her for a test. Problem still persists. Once home I did a shock bounce test and found them to still feel solid. (I have BC BR coil overs only about a year old). I have mine set relatively firm because of how low the car is with no guards rolled, keeps me from scrubbing . Anyhow, decided to jack the car up and down in the rear end to make sure the shockies were still expanding and retracting with and without load. All seemed normal. Now I'm a little stumped. I hadn't felt or heard anything break before I started feeling the excessive bounce. The BC BR Coilovers are less than a year (if not just comming up to a year) old so I wouldn't imagine they'd have seized or failed already. I've got one theory (which I can't test until I get tools from the workshop tomorrow night) but perhaps if I back the firmness of the coils in the back off a little more, it may allow the shocks to absorb more of the shock rather than it being transfered to the wheels. I haven't seen any obvious bushes 'flogging' out when I had it last on the hoist either, that's not to say something hasn't happened spontaneously though. So I am stumped for now. Any one else had this problem? In Short: Problem: Boucy rear end Fixes Tried: - Tyre Pressures - Inspectated Tyres (fronts are new and rears use to be the front so they still have tread) - Suspension Bounce test - Jacked up rear to inspect load and no load operation of coil overs Yet to try: - Softening up the rear coils via adjustable dampening dials.

Another satisfied Sennheiser 598 HD owner XD. My honest oppinion is they are the closest thing to studio sound quality without forking out about $1500-$2000 for a headset. They also compliment the 'HI-FI' and 'Wartapes' setting on battlefield 3 to the fullest potential

An honest opinion, don't go USB soundcard and take the extra 10-15mins to open it up and install a PCI or PCI-e soundcard (whichever you have) and you will not be disappointed. The last thing you want to do is find out that the USB soundcard (again) doesn't meet your expectations. You'll want something with 24-bit audio sampling. Honestly, with a decent headset and soundcard, you'll still be able to pinpoint footsteps, hear big bassy explosions and enjoy crisp detail in clarity without simulated surround sound. What budget are you setting yourself? Sorry, just saw you said $100 (or under). You'll be able to get a good PCI soundcard at that price but ideally $150 will cover you for an excellent experience.

Listen to this guy. He is SPOT ON. I myself have been through a few gaming headsets and was hell bent on the best audio quality I could get. Went from plantronics -> Razer (barracuda's) -> Logitech (G35's) and came to the conclusion, none of them could supply the quality I desired. I do a lot of music recordings and had a pair of Sennheiser 280HD Pros laying around. Plugged them into my logitech Z-5500 (very good PC sound system) coupled with my Razer AC-1 soundcard and could not believe the difference in clarity and tone. That being said, did my research and settled on the Sennheiser HD 598's coupled with a zalman clip on mic. I will NEVER buy another gaming brand headset so long as studio headsets provide superior quality. Sennheiser 555's would be an excellent choice going from a gaming headset. You just have to decide what you want, Quality sound... or a pretty headset with features (more often than not scarcely used.)

Hybrid , just wondering if you could post some more photos of the collector/where the piping merges? Just looking for some macro shots inside. Many thanks.

Saw a white R34 (with a GT-R badge but I'm sure it wasn't a GT-R) driving quite erratically and speeding out from meadowbrook. I'm hoping this wasn't someones car being stolen as when I caught up to the car again, it ran a red light from a standstill against turning traffic.

Spotted a blue and white two-toned R33 heading through Beenleigh.

Yeah it's definitely a good kit. I spent close to 24 (broken hours) detailing my car before I left over seas. Got some pretty good results although next time, I wish to have in my possession a paint depth indicator. Detailed my car with a concours white pad and Menzernas Power finish PF2500. I got most swirls, light scratches and holograms out however, there was still a few that remained but personally could be buffed out with a different compound/pad combination. Anyway, car looks mint

Spotted 4 skylines in the space of 20mins driving through kingston as well as a heap of other imports, was there a meet on somewhere?

I'm crusing from the Loganlea area, if anyone's keen to meet up at Mc Donalds springwood or something for a feed then cruise to aspley I'm in.