numleg

Hmm... How tight is the inital inspection? Mods list below includes a lot of things an inspection shouldn't uncover but also a lot of things that "should" fail in NSW Autech S15 seats R34 GTR wheel Lowered springs on standard struts M35 steering wheel Freeway dolphin gauge pod on dash R34 GTR turbos Nismo 555cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump Power FC AVCR mounted on steering column Z32s Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel HKS 264 deg cams HKS cam gears HKS hard piping kit Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe Fujitsubo Cat back "High flow" cat N1 oil and water pumps Greddy oil cooler kit Turbosmart BOVs

Yeah I did get the impression that the ACT was a bit more mod friendly. General i've found ACT police to be much nicer than their NSW colleagues. The Volvo wagon disguise i probably wearing a little thin in the cars current shape- Low, GTR rims, Loud exhaust + the Autech bits, body kit, brembos, FMIC etc. The engine bay if full of pollished piping but the pods are enclosed.

Hello SAUACT, Me and my two imports will be moving to Canberra early next year and I’m trying to work out what to do about rego/licence. Am I better off keeping my NSW rego and Licence (I will still have a valid NSW residence) or should I transfer everything to ACT? I've already looked and it seems like rego costs will be about the same either way and insurance won’t change too much. My main concerns are how strict are ACT police/laws for mods/defects vs NSW and how much trouble will it be to change everything over? And If I do change to ACT rego and I get pulled into a defect station in NSW what’s the go? I've got an 180SX daily and a 300+kW Autech 260RS, I haven't had any trouble in NSW yet but I don't drive like a jerk. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated and maybe I'll see some of you at a meet some time.

No idea about clearance but i had 245's on 9.5 inch wide rims. It was ok at 240 awkW not so good after that and pretty much dangerious at 300+kW.

Yeap and an R32 has what kind of motor? It's a starting point as to what things will need swaping between RB20 and RB25

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/119865-rb25-into-r32-basic-guide/page__st__80__p__6554163__hl__r32%20rb25__fromsearch__1#entry6554163 This would probably be a good place to start. Also have a crack at the search button next time

Posting about running out of fuel in a thread about the rip off cost of fuel. Thats gota be ironic or something.

Terry your post is from 5:30am either you've been up partying all night or you are awake far too early for a Saturday.

Pulling a fuse and draining a cup of fluid is harder than removing prop shaft? The method I described removes power from the ATTESA so it can't pump fluid to actuate the clutch packs and then removes the preload. I would guess the method in the manual is pretty much doing the same thing via the ATTESA ecu.

Ok my turn to have a crack. Firstly my Stagea is a 260RS so it is a 33GTR driveline. All three times my Stagea has been on a two wheel dyno we have pulled out the 4WD fuse and bled the fluid out of the transfer case, Not the line at the back of the transfer case. After the dyno fuse back in and bleed the air out of the transfer case. The car still smokes all 4 wheels. The guy doing this has been tuning GTRs for years and always does it this way, I'd guess he would had a few complaints by now if he was killing transfer cases.

I did that a few times but jerry cans + funnel + fuel stench + spilling fuel in my boots one morning. Bugger that I'll go back to getting ripped off. I had the Laser as a second car for 18 months I could do the round trip on a $60 tank. Saddly almost 300 000 KMs and two lots of L/P platers have got the best of the old girl.

Did J&I Smash Repairs in Marrickville turn out any good? I will have a new front bar needing a respray shortly

Also Terry "independants" are no fairer in my experience, The United's between Orange and Sydney are often the same price or higher than "big brands" in the same area.

My Chance to rant. I live in Sydney and work away from home in Orange and i see a massive price difference between fuel types 91/98 etc and between areas. Most of the time there is over 20 cents per liter difference between Sydney and Orange even on the same day. I understand their are transport costs and lower profits due to smaller volumes but really 20 cents? So add the 98 octane tax 12-20 cents + "country town" tax 15-20 cents and you feel pretty ripped off. I worked out the extra fuel bill for 12 months in my stagea @ about 12.5L/100KM paying for 98 and having to fill up in Orange Vs A second car which was free (parents no longer wanted a claped out old laser) which I just had to maintain and register it. Lower fuel consumption plus being able to do a round trip from Sydney and back without buying the over priced fuel in orange pretty much covered rego, 3rd party insurance and an oil change. I grew up in rural NSW 5+ hrs from Sydney/Melbourne and it was only ever 5 cents difference between us and the city back then WTF is going on? VENT! RANT! RAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=167038 I have used this guide both times i've set up my AVC-Rs. You will want to make up a rubber isolation mount for the solenoid to reduce the noise.

I had an Exedy HD (Silver cover) fried it in about 10000km with 270rwkw for most of its short life. Now have 300+kw DCS twin in the car now ceramic multi button, pedal is lighter than the exedy and took about 10 minutes to figure out how to drive it. They do the same clutch with full face plates which should be even easier to drive.

Found a standard 260RS front bar. It's months away from getting to me but i'll respraying the front end and touching up the rest of the car when it finaly get here. Anyone keen on a genuine Freeway Dolphin front bar?

Any thing left for a 33 GTR?

I know a workshop who recently put a 34 box into a 32. They said it was mechanically pretty easy, hardest part was getting the speedo/tacho to work and the cost. I was told to budget $6/8k.

Finally got a new clutch fitted. Ended up with a DCS billet twin with ceramic multi button plates. Pedal weight is lighter than the Exedy heavy duty I fried at WSID, It grabs a bit but nothing like the HKS twin I had in the car before. Redline Shockproof in the gearbox and front diff. Back to WSID next time i'm home to see what I can break next.

After price for the C pillar covers and the rear strut tower covers

Where in the inner west are you? would you take $60? and could I pick it up Thursday or Friday?

Any chance you've got a plug to go with the AFM?

The guys doing my clutch could probably hook you up with a JB race clutch fitted for cheaper than the Nismo clutch.

I second the Bullshit motion,