cameron

Oh btw, I've have not herd anything good about that vortex fuel and detonation is really common when using it ! And don't forget that Their are 3 warning's on the FC: Injector, AFM & Knock so it can be anyone of thoes 3 All flash a differnt sequence when Injectors reach 98% AFM Voltages Reaches 5.000 Knock Hits higher than 60

AFAIK you can't change the bar to number's but to read the max knock level hit press UP arrow and it will display in a little box down the bottom, this depends on if you'r in single channel or 8 channel monitoring, same thing to view max values hit for everything else. After a while you can understand the bar graph just by watching it if you'r passenger, this will give you an idea of what the knock level's are hitting, By seeing how far the bar jumps to the right side. No, I've seen knock level's hit upto 130, im not sure how high it goes but you don't want to be seeing thoes numbers anyway.

Yes & No, Yes, because if you get them to work they basically work, and you can have extra features that you can have with a bleed valve, stoping boost from spiking, making it spike, gear & rpm specific boost etc. No, because they can be a pain in the rectum to set up properly and can take some time. - refering to the Apexi AVC-R. If you'r after a decent controller that is only been new to the market go with the JayCar electronic boost controller - You can't go wrong for $150 with the digital read-out Hand Controller. For more info on the JC controller view the Nissan Stagea section under Vehicle Specific Discussion.

Hi Myth33, Q2) Gavin Woods @ Labrador on the GoldCoast, is know as a good tuner he might be able to help you out. Q3) Yes full exhaust system will give you gain's with inconjunction with the Pannel filter i'd expect a gain, anywere between 10 - 20kw's.... Could be more, as this depends on what exhaust system you buy.

Put the pod in a cold air box. The Blitz SUS is loud, so stay away from that K&N aren't too bad.

If you havn't already purchased the R34 then buy a R33 turbo ? If you go throught the prices etc its going to end up cheaper buy a R33 GTR. Theirs a user on sau doing this conversion at the moment.

Fuel cut defender - $300 or so from justjap i think....

Steve's R33 was doing over 300rwkw's on stock internals, its possible but he also had lower compression head gasket. But then again its not mostly the power's fault that reck's rods its the RPM they sit at for too long of a time. Yes GTR rods are the best upgrade for RB25 with a good price.

You mean detonation ? That comes down to the tuning really, nothing to do with the motor internals. Forged internals can handel more detonation than standard cast piston's but forgies are still destructable.

Just watch the Knock level, Standard timing is 15º BTDC as read on the Harmonic Balencer with a Timing light.

They can handel around 300rwkw's, But i woudln't push them any further past their

Go to SETTINGS > INJECTOR change them to 65% same as what SK worked out 444/680 = .65 For the MS you'll will have to find the best spot the car idle's on. Try +0.15 for a starting point and go up.

We use Genuine Nissan Timing belt on all our RB engines. $90 - $110 delivered.

Is this normal or does it mean the syncro's are on their way out ?, i've seen many skylines do this.

Maby a fuel filter is clogged up ? What happens between the 5 second that nothing is happening, does the rpm drop & stall can you hear the engine reving/turbo spooling etc ?

Try a seach bud, Their was a thread about the freak ecu 95 mdl and a link was posted listing all the Stock ECU number's for the allocated Car model's - R31, R32, R33 etc...

Engine shaking doesn't sound good, that part of the story sounds like a dropped cylinder, If you notice a sudden drop in oil measuring on the dipstick then this gives you more of an indication that a cylinder has gone.

Funky I'm after, 1) Independent Electronic Boost Controller $58 + GST 2) Hand Controller for Digital Adjusters $44 + GST How much for shipping to North QLD

Don't forget guys with the aus version S15 if you go for an aftermarket ecu, Eg: Apexi Power FC you have to switch wire 30/31 on ecu wiring harness to run the fuel pump & i think the CAS.

I think they are a stronger engine than standard RB26, forged internals etc - some correct this please....

Only other thing i can think of is what you mentioned at the end of you'r post, sounds like a fault along the wiring harness. Is the bad idle the only symptom or is their smoke pouring out of the exhaust, does it drive/ missfire at a certain rpm?

Stay away from them, they go flat to quickly!

For $200 or under you can buy, Short shift kit or a Walbro 255l/hr fuel pump ? Theirs heaps of stuff you can buy, maybe somthing he needs eg: spark plugs ... ?

It affects idle and if its too rich/lean you will get hunting, on 2 different car's with both PFC i've seen by making adjustments to the water temp correction Idle Go up - With adding more fuel 80º - 1.10 Hunting @ idle 80º - 1.00 This depends on the fuel map's tune if its tuned lean enough on the map to get hunting on idle I found that by making adjustments up stops this hunting - 80º, Over rich tune on the fuel map at idle with give you low idle by adjusting it down for 80º this improves the idle. 80º = And example as this depends on what you'r operating sits on. Q1) The GTS-T don't come with a Inlet temp sensor unfortunatly only the GTR does

Yes it will be alot laggier than standard - ofcourse... Should start spooling at around 3,000rpm & be on full boost by about 4,500rpm - 4,8000rpm