Nanogrip

Now starting with the 2nd week of working out, my body is responding well and not sore as much as the 1st week, but still doing baby workouts. Taking flax seed only for now, I've cut the aspirin because I am not sore anymore. The shops here don't have the stuff I need, or the stuff are way too overpriced. Anybody recommend a good website for supplements? I am often use www.bodybuilding.com but other options would be nice.

I like Adzmax's meal plan, good stuff. Will try to work something similar as it is not so easy as of the moment, with the job and the exorbitant cost of health foods, fugg this place.

Yeah it is hard to lose that fugging belly fat! It is the absolute last part of your body to lose the bulge from what I understand. There is a program that I will take a look into, called P90, maybe you can take a look as well. Looked good on YouTube and convinced me enough to take a chance with it.

Some of you guys have excellent rims I am kind of budget bludgeoned, so I am stuck with black painted 17"s on my ride (~_~)"

Does the engine die when you are in slow traffic or when you are at low revs or when changing gears? If so, then might be worth checking the idle air control solenoid valve if it needs cleaning. Same with the air flow meter. There is an excellent tutorial somewhere in the forums. My randomly dying engine became a lot worse after installing a Blitz Sonic Power Intake, after checking in the forums here, I tried the idle air control cleaning, problem never returned.

Just started last week after a year of no gym, fugging life transition thing, moving, new job, new people... doing baby stuff for now until I return back to my old shape 45kg on the bar, 8 reps with 5 sets, 75kg in the lat machine, same 8*5. The main core workouts, but I avoid squats because I fear hurting my back. No supplements other than... aspirin. While I was in college, I used tribulus and whey protein, very good combination and was able to do 110kg bench presses, one armed pull-ups, and an okay 130kg deadlift. I am 5'7" btw, kinda Tom Cruise short

Rays-Volk Racing TE37 are dead sexy, especially in dark variants.

Is it necessary to hook the trigger to the capacitor? Maybe that is what is causing the problems. Might be ghetto but perhaps you can set up switches to the trigger line until you can get a better and working head unit.

Damn, aren't Focals expensive top end car audio stuff? Those would be a steal if still in good condition. I am fine with my setup as is, so good luck with your sale

Thermostat might be kaput, not opening when it should. Try running with heater turned on to see if it helps a bit. I would change the thermostat and replace all the rad fluid.

You could probably replace the thin floorboard into a much thicker one, then use bolted down heavy duty straps to hold your sub+enclosure+amp in place, it will never move. And you can still access your spare wheel in case of an emergency (pssst, or carry one or more of those fix-a-flat cans) That is what I would do anyway.

Turn key to Acc. (accessories) or start car. Then cigarette lighter will work.

http://www.caranddri...v12_evo_page_10 Best tyre for the money cheap tyre. Long-life tread wear too. edited...

The light stalk on the steering column probably needs cleaning..? See if you can disassemble the unit, inspect, and if needed, spray with an elec. cleaner spray (watch out for drips and overspray!). Also maybe there is a short somewhere.

Didn't know about the silicon hoses. Hmmm, I learn something everyday here on SAU

Hey nice kane84 . Now it is just the wiper intermittent thing. So the wire was cut for the injectors in the main loom?

Could it be stored alongside other fuses and relays in the fuse box under the bonnet? I'm at work (tee hee) so I can't open to verify now, and sadly, I have no internet at home so I cannot check it from there.

Yeah my car's syncros are slightly spunked. I have searched and searched in Google (but not here in SAU, pardon if I should but didn't) but is there a gearbox from a different vehicle that can bolt it on without or slight modification? No one in this island has the expertize to re-fresh a gearbox and I'm afraid that my only options are to purchase a re-freshed one from the outside or do it myself.

The plastic button itself is a clip, so you could use a metal machine screw with a similar sized dome head, circumference and height wise, washer and nut, combined to make a relatively indestructible replacement. Ah but then the plastic button lasted more than a decade so there is probably no point in it (but a good idea nonetheless).

Hey no problem, sorry that the problem wasn't fixed but we'll get the answers soon

I wish I can inspect the car myself as this is a good puzzle, but I can't be more helpful than posting suggestions. I think what you can for now is gather some friends over and troubleshoot the problem. Good luck and keep us informed on your progress.

:worship:Very very very nice!

According to performance parts websites, they are different (with different part numbers) so that would tell me they are different. But perhaps wait for more people to respond to your query.

Can you provide a photo of the said orange warning light in the gauge cluster? Perhaps it is the ABS light..?

This is for a Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano but it might be applicable to R33's (I am not going to contort myself to check on my car lol), but there are two plastic buttons or caps attached to the brake pedal metal arm or bracket next to the metal arm, I can't exactly remember. But sometimes those plastic buttons fall off or become worn out so you will have a constant brake light. Or it could be the brake light switch which is near where the plastic buttons are. Easy problem I think.