Nanogrip

I am not sure, but also turning on the heater will help flow out additional air locks..?

Plain old WD40 is fine for electrical connections, as well as silicon spray, I go for whatever is cheaper. I haven't really gotten into the fuse boxes in my car yet so I cannot say for sure what those labels corresponds to (no electrical problems...................yet). But you can pull out each fuse and visually inspect for an open fuse or have a probe tester to check the conductivity of the fuses. I think it is a simple problem but let us know of your progress.

I think I know what the problem is now. The injector(s) - (neg) is connected/shorted to the - (neg) of the wiper. That is why the car dies when the wipers are turned on and also won't start when you unplug the wiper motor connector.

Hmmm, would it be possible to provide some photos of the wiring? Also perhaps it is best to continue trouble shooting with a tester and consult with a wiring diagram. And although it appears to be a very strange thing going on with your car, it doesn't appear to be a difficult problem, time consuming maybe. Good thing it is the weekend, more time to dive into the car.

I would spray very lightly on the whole clip on the wires connecting to the gauge set (not the back of the gauge set itself), and thus into the metal pins. Sometimes corrosion builds on the plugs and when we unplug the clip, creates an oxide insulator. Spraying also lubes things up so you can insert better, smoother, have moisture resistance, anti-corrosion, etc. The fuse for windows are here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/207464-r33-series-1-fuse-box-layout-rb25det/ If fuse are still good, then maybe relay switch is the problem. Or wiring, or power window motor, or could be as simple as the switch being kaputting kulprit.

F1 type digital gauges Infrared camera and windshield HUD/monitor (for avoiding idiots on the road wearing dark clothing, running from the police, ex, family, etc.) Alcantra everywhere Cylinder deactivation (save fuel) HID 6 gears I think that is about it for now.

Wow, haven't heard of something like this happen before. Perhaps there is a loose or unintentional grounding on the wires for the wipers, or some arching happening near there. Or someone wired your car that way just recently as a prank.

Could it be that the connection clips at the back of the cluster were not snapped back in correctly? If not, then spray a bit of electronics-safe lubricant at the back of the clips, then reconnect. For your power windows not working, I am unsure. Perhaps both are related or not. Is there a power window lock? Check for fuses as well, there is a fuse panel under the right of the steering wheel, and the others are in the trunk and under the bonnet.

As a professional code breaker in the internet. Here is what I think the first 2 letters mean. 1st letter = Indicates orientation of cylinder in the block, R/C/L/S, etc = inline, V= v configuration. Observe: RB20DET and VG30DETT 2nd letter = Indicates generation of the block, B/A/R/Q, etc. Newest generation of engines are designated to Q's! VQ38DETT! I don't know.............

Something like these?

SS8_Gohan is correct. I had hard water marks and I used just a clear coat safe polisher (Turtle Wax), hard enough to remove the oxides but not enough to damage glass. Works perfectly for windows, mirrors, glass, etc. One time I mixed vinegar (mild acid) with some of the polisher to remove more stubborn water marks but the results were the same as using without the vinegar.

I tried it when I had an auto R33 years ago and it is definitely not worth it. Most after market universal auto knobs are pretty bad. You will lose your overdrive button unless you wire a button for it or the shift knob has one, and it won't fit perfectly unless the aftermarket auto knob is specifically made for the R33. Also the stock auto knob extends into the shift rail (I think that is what it's called), removing it will leave a gap unless you put a rubber grommet into it or some other thing. Not fixing the gap will give you a wrong indication of drive mode on the console, such as when you select D, the gap will give you N, shift to P, and it will indicate R. Maybe you can paint or add some brushed metal sheet to accent to the shift knob..?

There might be a fuse box that can access and pull out the fuse for traction control..? Try losing traction at a wet parking lot by making slow doughnuts, I think a light should blink in the dash to indicate that the traction control is working/not working.

Maybe run a concentrated fuel injector cleaner (psst, use 16 oz. acetone, mostly it is what fuel injector cleaners are made of) and then clean out your idle air control valve. There is an excellent tutorial somewhere in the forums.

I've had similar problems as yours but it was from a My Book. Re-plugging usually works as well as restarting the computer. But in your case looks more serious. I'll try to help out. First don't do anything on the computer that has your Caviar Green HD, doing any activity will delete or modify the files you want to recover. Then download and run this (you can use a portable version as well): http://www.piriform.com/recuva It will take you probably a day and a half to recover most of your files, some will be lost for good unfortunately Caviar Green HDs have been known to have problems from their solder points. Here is another thing you can do. Take out the HD, and look at the circuit at the back, carefully unscrew all the bits holding that circuit, take out the circuitry and then clean the inside (the side that attaches to the HD) with a very small amount of rubbing alcohol, I used WD40 for one HD in an emergency and it worked, but I don't recommend it. This is probably one of your last options to do though. Those are what worked for me when I had to recover files from kaput HDs. Good luck and keep us posted.

You would also need to have the harmonic balancer/crank pulley checked if you choose to use a lightened flywheel from what I understand. Otherwise the engine could damage itself in time by the unbalanced rotational forces acted on it. Dunno, read it somewhere a long while ago.

I have Yokohama Advan Sports on my R33 GTST, 235/45/R17 in front and 255/40/R17 in the rears. Almost bald in the rears, slight cracking and will soon be replaced, they had a loooong life. Very stiff walls and I can feel every bit of the road. Great response, bit too hard sometimes. Not so good in the wet (fishtails a lot under acceleration) and horrible on concrete wet or dry. Maybe I suck at driving or my car needs improvement in suspension, but it feels like I get a lot of understeer at high speeds on dry roads. Medium to low speed cornering is excellent. I think they are good tires. The roads here are like cheese grates so I won't be purchasing expensive rubbers for a while. I recently purchased Sumitomo HTR Z IIs (cheap stuff, made in Japan, looks okay), I hope I don't regret them because I initially wanted Hankook Ventus V12s. The V12s were tested in Car and Driver Magazine and took 2nd place, but had the best cost/performance of the tires tested.

Sounds similar to a leaking exhaust manifold.

My first Skyline was a 4 door R33 GTS and I purchased a Cusco oval type strut tower for the front. It was the only suspension/body modification and it was night and day in handling. My R33 GTST has both front and rear round type Cusco strut tower bars and I am happy with them, though it would be nice to have exotic titanium strut tower bars I think the underbody is robust enough to not need bracing, but then some cars, such as the new Subaru WRXs are known to have weak underbody bracing. But then I don't have aftermarket underbody bracing so I cannot say about how effective they are, I might get a set if someone says they are worth it. For suppliers, maybe check Nengun or Perfectrun.

I don't get soot, probably because the I don't run pure toluene or xylene. You do get a lot of soot from just plain flame burning toluene or xylene, but it is around the same as gasoline. As I said, I haven't had any problems from years of running toluene mixes with my engines. And if soot bothers, then diesel engines should have more problems than gasoline engines, which they don't (stupid logic I know).

I don't need to run a meth lab, I work at the pharmacy . We have poor quality fuels here, imported from Singapore or Philippines, so I have to mix my own fuel for my R33 GTST. If you want, I can teach you and your husband several fuel mixtures of my own for free.

The rubbing I get is from the weight of the carpet on top of the wires (from my observation). There is always vibration between the carpet and whatever the carpet is on top of. Since the middle is farthest away from a solid anchored point, the middle moves most. The sides gives a nice amount of space and doesn't press or act on the wires as much. But every car and how everyone handles their wires are different. I hope I made sense.

I've ran toluene in my cars, lawn mowers, weed trimmers, etc. for years and hadn't had any problems. Now experimenting with moth balls (real naphthalene) and carb/throttle body cleaners (ingredients appear similar to bottled octane boosters, and dissolves moth balls quickly). I wish there was an easy and reliable way to test octane for the average person. My neighbors probably think that I am running a meth lab at home.

That is one of the most beautiful Z I have ever seen. The engine looks like it was made for it, like a jigsaw puzzle.

Check if your car jack or tools in the trunk are secured tightly enough. Take off the rear trunk plastic linings and see if any wiring or relay switch is loosened out of place. Check the exhaust system and the brake rotors as well. Sometimes these things make similar noise to suspension problems.