Nanogrip

How about Ventus V12 evo K110? Car and Driver Magazine did a test on several tires a while back, and the Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 came out in second but the price is excellent for the performance you get.

"...mini breathers on the two hoses that were connected to main air pipe..." Aren't the mini breathers supposed to be on the valve cover and the two hoses on the main pipe blocked? Can you post a photo? It should be an easy fix if it ran before the change of air filter.

"but in (country), we speak (language)" There's always that one redneck that must open its proud patriotic mouth in every forum. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~` This might be good for an NA GTS that wants more power, a universal rear exit pipe turbo kit. http://ststurbo.com/...al_turbo_system Or you can DIY with parts from wreckers. Supercharger kit. http://www.procharger.com/ http://www.lonniespe...ce.com/uni1.htm They used to have a universal supercharger kit available on their web page, came with a thick aluminum plate, brackets, hoses, etc., but I don't know if they still offer the kit.

Yes they gave some power, mostly it is the noise. I noticed though sometimes I lose some power, I guess the CAI is flooding the AFM when I go at high speeds. There are two other mods that I forgot to write down, it is a throttle body coolant bypass, and the closed crankcase ventilation was piped to the firewall. Since it never snows here, I did the throttle body coolant bypass, the CCV was to suck some cold air from the air conditioned cabin. They don't do much, or anything, but something to do to my GTS at the time.

Is it legal to add carbon fiber panels to your car? So instead of more power, make it more lighter. Carbon fiber hood, fenders, doors, front and rear bumpers, seat buckets, roof (cut metal one out), floor panels (cut them out too), spare wheel well (that one as well). Add some bracings. I think that should amount to $6000. I had an R33 GTS, and the mods I did were Cusco front strut tower bar, Apexi Power Intake (clamped a PVC cone shield to it), crank vented filters, Summit Racing red ignition cables, better ground (four 8 gauge amplifier cables from ground to the engine) deleted the resonance box on the intake pipe, and made a cold air duct to the Apexi Power Intake by cutting out a hole where one of the turbo pipings would be in a turbo R33. It sounded incredible, the exhaust was stock but the intake noise was awesome. It wasn't fast, but I was really happy with it. All were done under $300 so imagine what $6000 will do.

I think you have to "break in" the sub for a while before you can blast it. To break it in, you have to play the sub at low volumes for a total of... I forgot how many hours, but 40hrs popped into my head. If the sub box had leaks, then you can hear whistling or fooshing noise, too small of a box will also hinder it. Type of box also affects how the sub gives you bass so see if your box is right for the sub. Ah, also the bass frequency, if it is set too low, then you won't hear it, but feel it of course. Try setting it to a more punchier bass to see if it helps, such as in the 80Hz or higher.

In addition to BundyBear's post, I think if the stock audio system had no whining before, then the whining now or recently is from poor ground to aftermarket powered audio systems, or from under-shielded RCA cables (or both), or from a really high power/leaking ignition system. Maybe you can wrap the RCA cables with aluminum tape. I try not to put any wiring in the middle of the car because they tend to rub the most, so I usually place them in the seams where the floor meets the sides. The wiring that is on the passenger floor looks okay, I would probably braid them if I were doing something similar (it's just a habit, has not improved or worsen any of my audio quality). You can improve it now by wrapping it in an aluminum tape, also watch out for rubbing, compression, shearing, vibration that will lead to cutting of the wires, etc. when returning the carpets, so secure them as best as you can. This is a fun idea but probably not a good one, you can use foam injection behind some of the plastic panels to improve your sound quality. Have a blast with it.

You can also try a bit of car polisher in some spots, they remove hardened soot and even polish up dulled paint in the engine bay left by harsh chemicals. Rusted bolts can be cleaned up a bit as well when the polisher is used with a toothbrush.

Yeah I agree also with the AAC valve. I had low idle problems and would get stalls at times. I even almost crashed one time when the engine suddenly stopped while going a bit fast in the curves. You can also try cleaning out the mass air flow sensor with a MAF cleaner. If you did all of them and none worked, try filling up your tank with a gallon of toluene, and drive hard for several minutes and blow out whatever is in the car's system

Oh god I am such an idiot... I was talking about the SPEEDOMETER when this topic is about TACHOMETER, I keep mixing those two up... And that was my first post.......

I have the same problem with the tach even after removing it, and blowing it out with canned air, though I neglected to spray the necessary contact points with the appropriate stuff so I will revisit it again one day. Anyway, I have a simple solution and you don't need to do much. Gently pull on the trip odometer reset stalk (don't yank or pull too hard, ouch) until it works again. It probably won't be cured until the tach is thoroughly cleaned though, as the stalk pulling is a temporary fix.