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Everything posted by Nanogrip
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Window/glass? Razor is your best bet. I've had many success with solvents like throttle body cleaner too, melts glue and stickers like butter to a hot pan. Watch out for overspray and drippings though. Spray target and then wipe, or spray on a towel and then wipe off target.
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Trying To Find A Part Related To The Airbox.
Nanogrip replied to Kanaric's topic in General Maintenance
That part I think just slots in, there is no rubber piece or gaskets needed. Similar with the air-box down to that elbow before your red circle. -
Need Help Plz...95 S1 R33 Gts25t Car Won't Start
Nanogrip replied to O_2the_D's topic in General Maintenance
When you changed your plugs, did you notice any difference between all 6 plugs? Could be coil, could be CAS. You did just about everything, I guess check those. If both are okay, then I don't know, probably the computer's gone kaputs. -
I run my "line without the bonnet mat, it had a tear in it and had some oil soak from the previous owner. Looks neater and I don't have any issues with paint fade. If you don't mind doing a bit of cutting and measuring, then maybe you can try out Dynamat or this : http://www.thermotec.com/products/13500-adhesive-backed-heat-barrier.html
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R33 Gtr - Is This Rust Common? (hard To Explain - Pics Attached!)
Nanogrip replied to KR4-GTR's topic in General Maintenance
Hmmm, I usually treat rusts with the usual wire brushing for removal, then zinc spray (lightly), then spray paint over. No oils of any kind or rust converters. Opinions in this gents? Never knew about fish oil until reading through SAU forums, got to learn boatloads, especially from the build section. -
Go for titanium lug nuts
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Boot Has Been Leaking For Ages. It's Now Rusting :(
Nanogrip replied to KrazyKong's topic in General Maintenance
If you are leaking from the boot rails, clean it as best as you can and remove as much rust as you can. Then use a leak stopper for windshields, it is a thin silicone liquid and will seep into small cracks or openings. You definitely need something else for the tail light assembly. Zinc coating is excellent for preventing rust. -
Not really ready for the next spike :,( This will affect grocery items and utility bills. My gf and I are planning on fixing up a garden, and I have access to several roof mount solar panels. Nothing we can do for petrol prices, it is just too big of a market to try and change.
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Ah yeah sorry, I meant straight 40. Not 40w. As said, we don't have cold weather (tropical island), 28~32 centigrade all year. My oil knowledge is pretty poor, and I usually stick with straight weight oils or 10w-30/40. So my Q is, should I stick with straight weight 30 or 40 since I get ticking with 40? I will google for more oil knowledge.
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It ticks while cold, goes away at operating temperature in a few minutes. No knocking (thank goodness). A lot of the guys here in the forums use 40w while I have been using 30w for almost all of my cars so I am wondering if I should stick with 40w. Thanks ================================================================== On the topic Maybe stick with the cheaper one of the two? Both are great oils and with regular oil change, there won't much difference between the two I think tbh.
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This game is evil. I remember playing for hours on Oblivion for the PC and I only got out of my apartment for food and drinks. Sometimes the whole week would pass by in a blink. If I hadn't a job now, I think I would be doing the same on Skyrim. Great evil evil game
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I think you can idle without the air flow meter, but check it in case. Also could be a leak in some of the positive pressure air lines, or boost gauge lining?
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Is it standard practice to run thicker oils in high kms turbo engines? I have valve ticking with straight 40w (no winter weather here) so I might switch back to 30w unless there is something I am missing.
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There is a temperature sensor and hose connected to the dash. Sometimes when I remove the dash, I forget to re-install those two and I don't get cool ac.
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Your trip odometer stock is doing the sticking. Try pulling gently on the stalk or pushing it in fully to test it out. You can clean the base of the stalk once you pull the gauge cluster assembly out to cure the problem.
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So, My Car Turns Off While I'm Driving...
Nanogrip replied to SkyBlue92's topic in General Maintenance
It could also be the idle air control valve. Mine used to die at random and even nearly crashed until I found a tutorial here in the forums and cured it. Love this place -
I usually jack up my car then, rest the tyres on top of rims.... then being paranoid, I put jack stands in all parts robust. I saw recently that it was possible to jack up the car using the tow hook points, though just for one side and at one end.
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You can have just the same and cheaper result with 16 fl oz. of paint grade acetone on a near empty tank on every oil change. But nothing beats what mad082 suggested.
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Creaks? I used a lot of stuff, from lithium to silicone, worst was molybdenum (wtf was I thinking?) . What works best for me is graphite, spray or grease, so it is another option to try out for those who have door creaks.
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Mines leaking in the same manner and I traced it to the boot gutter where it looks like the seals are cracking. Am pretty sure it is not the boot bolts, and hinges as the leaks come from before that, and it is not the rear glass either. I like the baby powder idea so I will give it a wack. Weather has been nasty so I can't get it done, will use clear enamel paint in several layers until I can get it properly fixed.
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On Monday, I did a personal best in wide grip pull ups in that workout session. 8 reps with 15 sets with clean motions at my current weight of 78.5kg and it felt like I can do much more. So next week I will do 8 reps with 20 sets.
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R33 Gtst S2 Running Rough - Help Needed!
Nanogrip replied to 01kings10's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Try cleaning out the idle air control valve. Easy work and there is a very detailed thread about it somewhere in the forums. Check it out as part of your process of elimination as suggested by markdem -
That is impressive GTR_JOEY. My personal best is 150kg x1. So I found what was causing my wrist pains, it is the Smith machine! When the benches are occupied, I use the Smith machine for my benches. I put on much more weights as I don't need a lot of stabilizing, and the bar itself weighs like nothing. The weight is part of the cause of the pain, that plus the way to unlock the bar bends my wrists enough to cause soreness and pain in the wrists. Problem solved. Thanks guys for all your help
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I play the Superman theme song often during heavy weights, Audioslave, Lenny Kravitz, Jimmy Hendrix, and other rock artists for most of my workouts.