ferni

I believe they are 24mm front and 22mm rears, whatever is in the handling kit from whiteline... I still have HICAS, i know lots of people remove that when getting on the track, but i didn't realise/think it would cause my rear to lighten up that much when entering a corner under brakes... so i guess that will be the first thing i try. I'll also try setting the rear bar to a medium setting... negative camber i run around -1.8 on the rear and around -2.2 on the front... I also think i have about 3mm toe in on the rear, none up front... When approaching a corner i'm normally hard on the brakes while heal-toeing, i'm pretty sure i use mainly brakes to slow me down not gearbox/engine - maybe 80/20 brakes/engine... First thing on my list is to get rid of the HICAS and soften the rear swaybar, thanks

2.5mins? are you on a dodo 1.5mb link or something? Closer to 1.5mins on my 1.5mb connection

Brake pads: I believe my rear pads Comp3's are higher CoF then my fronts RB74, don't know the figures tho. The braking 80% in a straight line and 20% (usually lighter braking) as you enter the corner, i think its called trail braking right? I have trouble doing that, because if i'm on my brakes when i enter the corner, the rear wants to come out, i believe because it doesn't have enough weight because all the weight has moved to the front of the car when braking, ie too soft front springs? and maybe something the anti squat and anti lift kits can help? Can i get these for my car? is it worth it? So what do you adjust to balance the table from wobbling diagonally? Suspension height as Daveo mentioned already?

40-50mm? must of been pretty low. My car is pretty even height all the way along, i raised the front by 2cm when i first got it because it was sitting like a grass hopper... How small of an amount can you raise/lower your suspension? is that the only way to adjust the weight balance? (besides physically removing/adding weight)

I don't mean to hijack but on topic, I have ohlins height and dampber adjustable coilovers, came with the car, I belive they are the proper swedish ones worth around 5k, not sure what the spring rates are, but don't think they are too hard judging from the ride, if i wind up the damper it does get quite bumpy for daily driving. As mentioned above i have the same problem with diving at the front of the car on the track. I have a whiteline adjustable swaybars front and rear set on hard setting, and whiteline front and rear camber kits and whiteline castor kit... as far as i know no rear subframe bushes (are these refered to as pineapples, if so why?) Haven't heard of anti dive tho? what are these? Is this something i should be looking at getting and do whiteline make them for R33 GTR? How do you adjust brake bias? I'm putting new pads in this weekend, RB74 front and Comp3 rears.. not sure whats in there at the moment. you say as little camber as you can get away with - is this because if you run too much camber you don't have enough tyre on the road when braking? how do you know how little camber you can get away with? how do you corner balance your car? From what i understand they just weigh your car on each corner, but how do you adjust it to balance it? and what real world effect does this have on a race track?

where can we find out info on when/where these cars running at tracks in vic? wouldn't mind going to watch

np yeah i heard about the twin scroll turbo as well, whats the deal with that

R33 GTR non vspec ATTESA checks 100times a second not 20 R33 GTR vspec ATTESA checks 1000times a second Vspec suspension is a little stiffer and 10mm lower Vspec has active LSD Ohh and VSPECs have that little sticker ont he back of the car that says 'vspec'

R34GTX: Who told you its twin turbo? someones been pulling your leg The B4 was twin(sequential) turbo.. but its replacement, the new GT is only single turbo... http://subaru.com.au/explore/liberty/speci....asp?item=23472 They had trouble with the B4 having a flat spot inbetween switching to the 2nd turbo. Very nice car tho, my mate has a B4, McCintosh stereo - very nice sounding for a stock stereo, nice car overall

There you go, didn't know why they'd stopped with the RB26, but i guess it makes sense develop a new VQ engine

So the reason Japan stopped making the RB26 is because they couldn't make it meet emission requirements?

Can you feel the clutch slipping? ie is it flaring up high in the rev range in 4th-5th gear? clutch will slip in 4th and 5th before the lower gears... you should be able to tell.. also i read that if you put your front wheels against a gutter or chok them, stick the car in 4th/5th gear and let the clutch out, if it doesn't stall suddenly then could be your clutch as well..

I don't think they are saying sequential turboing is ground braking but more "... By coupling turbocharging with Vanos variable valve timing and Valvetronic..." thats the BMW stuff that helps them make thier N/A engines so powerful, add that in with a turbo or two and its gotta be good! Also the B4 was sequential turbod (new GT is single)

If your car is diving more than you'd like under braking, i think the only option is to put harder springs in the front? My car does the same thing, under hard braking, the front dives and the tail gets really loose, which means i can't really brake much into the start of the corner, i need to be pretty much off the brakes once i turn in.

There was a pic of a 34 painted in ferarri red on the forums not long ago, that looked pretty good!

you should drive back to the toyota dealership in your new honda, and ask for the dealer that treated you that way, showed him your honda and see what he has to say

Ahh cool, so Troy is painting it for you? haha so deep down your not as hard core as you seem, you're really a pretty boy

As SK said, your just running too much camber.. thats your main problem for tyre wear...

Has anyone got one of these bonnets on an R33 GTR? any photos? Can you paint carbon fibre the same a normal bonnet?

Sounds to me like you need to take it to a new tuner - they should be telling you whats wrong and fixing it, not saying 'ummm theres something not right, we dont know what it is tho' As for power, with your mods (nfi about turbos, but assuming they are like N1's) you should be making close to 300rwkw... i've got stock turbos, exaust, 1bar boost and make 270rwkw...

www.trial.co.jp

Dammit where is that 'this thread is worthless without pics icon?'

Wow from your orig thread you were expecting it to be Jan, its now nearly may - that must of been a killer!!! Good luck with the car

I usually put 5L in i think the offical amount is 4.74L or something... the Oil cooler doesn't drain much through the sump, so theres probably a Litre or so left in when you drain the oil.

Didn't you have a turbo problem