Tommyk

drill it out and just leave it as is ?

Hmmm ive just tested it with a multimeter. The sensor works, in that it gives off a change in resistance according to a change in temperature. Is it possible that the unit has been decalibrated ? Theres those plugholes on the back and when you take them off, theres variable resistors ? Any ideas ? Im lost

Well The gauge is powered correctly (accessory, constant batt, ground and illumination) The other end goes to the sensor. But the reading isnt correct. I havent connected the sensor to anything yet, b ut just having the sensor in the air, I get a reading of like 160/170 degrees which is off the scale and is j ust plain wrong? I hope the gauge/sensor isnt stuffed. Does anyone know how the sensor works and what reading it sends to the gauge? There are two wires going to the sensor. Im assuming one must be a voltage source, the other must be the signal running from the temp sensor. At the same time, the sensor MUST be grounded, or is it ? Cheers

Hi guys Ive hooked up my electronic oil temp gauge, but im not getting any realistic reading. Now I need to know this -> at the present moment the gauge is floating. Not connected to anything, so the reading im getting is pretty haywire (150 deg). Once its mounted (its getting screwed into the oil cooler remote relocater), and is grounded, will it work? I tried to ground the temp sensor, but the reading didnt change. Is there a way of testing either the gauge or the sensor to see if either of them are faulty ? Thanks heaps for anyone who can help

Oh please

NAman: Ive priced a 34 GTR 99 model at 55k. Cost of car = 3.2 million yen (grade 4, about 70k kms)

sorry i misread your post if its making noise when you're coming off the clutch, its the thrust bearing My issue is a clutch bearing Its stlil making the noise toady

LOL Japs r funny

predator - I agree with your points about people keeping their imports. The shortest I kept mine for wouldve been about 3 months. The longest about a year. You are wrong about not seeing R32's etc around. Keep in mind there are a shitload that are still for sale, many are still at the docks here and in japan. You not only have 89 model skylines, but also 180sx, silvias, and other stuff like older pajero's. vans, porsches, etc. And other stuff that has come in from the states and europe etc, would also be classified under the 15 year rule. So ultimately, yes, there are a shitload of older cars on our roads now. 15-20000 cars isnt really that much considering there probably would be around 10 million registered cars on our roads ?

its not the clutch is the clutch bearing (or thrust bearing??) Im having the exact same issue today. Was giving it a bit last night, and today the clutch makes that screeching noise. Its to do with the bearing, which is apparently a $20-30 part from nissan, but you need to take out the whole gearbox to fix it, which is alone, $2-300. Its a matter of, either live with it, or fork out the $2-300, or fork out $800 for a new fitted clutch. Choice is yours. I personally would like to know what causes this bearing to Fcuk up

something like that, since hte rule was introduced. Figures could be off by a few thousand each way, but you get my point. SEVS cars are quite low volume imports

The reason for this -> more imports are coming in to Australia. As a result, we have plenty of cars, and plenty of sellers. Because of the 15 year rule, we had something like 15-20000 cars come in last year, and that has REALLY affected the market. A lot of the cheaper vehicles (in terms of the 33 GTR's) are crap, high km/thrashed examples. You can import a 99 34 GTR for as little as $55k

yes, they will put intrusion bars and bring your 89 model car to be ADR approved, so you can get an engineers certificate and a blueslip Speak to Simon about 15 yr compliance

Dont we also get a CAMS licence from SAU ? I think I only received the SAU membership, but the letter said that I was going to get something more in the mail ? Id love to go to this, but I dont think my car will be ready by then

I was going to get mine tuned at bel. But they dont have access to a 4wd dyno

Let me know where you end up going. Im waiting to finalise all my parts before i go to a 4wd dyno tuner

Abo Bob Do you a have a photo of where and how you mounted the oil cooler ? Cheers

he's japanese

EXACTLY GTS-T owners stick to your single turbos

sweet Thats my soldering pencil ! Thanks for all the efforts Shan. We all really appreciate it

hey Jimbo why not just keep it plumback ?

if you really want a mitsu bring in an evo 6/7. They wouldnt cost that much more Funky - how long before RAWS compliance becomes available, do you think ?

theyre okay ultimately, still a mitsubishi. Costly for parts and maintenance. Not really that great/quick a car. Very heavy (heavier than 300zx or GTR) Something close to 1600kgs That one looks in pretty crap shape. Wait until a raws workshop opens up for these. You should be able to get a 97/98 model for about 25-30k complied once it comes out They also came out in N/A

can you confirm how much the tuning will cost ? Approximately ? Just wanna see if its cheaper to get it done by a reputable tuner here Thanks

syaken is how much rego is left The less there is, usually - the cheaper the car goes for at auction Crash damage will be indicated by a 0/R/A rating if it has a grade of 1/2/2.5/3/3.5/4/4.5/5/6/S then it hasnt been damaged, according to the auction vehicle inspector