Messiah

ps i rekon the backfire is due to the bov.

is it just me, or is nothing connected to that boost solenoid... Also, the aftermarket blow off you have there will cause crap in the log run... bin it and return to stock... AF Bovs are only good for defects and fueling problems.

jap_muscle... we do... its called a car bomb....

think this is is second or third mat GB on this forum Mads... its one of the reasons i finally took the plunge too. its true we need someone over there who knows him to pay him a visit and encourage him to wrap things up (and i mean that just as i said it not in any sus way). The guy might have a shit sandwitch he's dealing with (and i'm a pretty forgiving person) but unfortunately the longer he leaves it the crankier people will get. I dont have high hopes for this, but i'm trying to remain a little optimistic. As mentioned, the goods were made and shipped. The guy now has a truck load of mats for various cars. I dare say its less hassle for him to send them on the the buyers than to resell them to new people and end up with a bad rep.

i would assume not by his description of the problem not happening in some gears, but that is an assumption not a educated judgement.

I mean throttle body, damn IPhone.

First things first we need to know about any and all mods. Let's assume it's just thee boost controller, I'd say the cut there is the factory over boost protection. The lack of boost on your guage would suggest otherwise, however your not registering a proper vacuum either. So, with that in mind check the lines for the boost controller and se if ones split. Also your ecu is normally in the passenger kick panel by their left foot. Check you have a factory blow off valve, it should be on the intake about a foot or two to the right of the trireme body. The factory bov should be plumbed back into the intake via a rubber hose.

Well if the mats have been produced and shipped (and paid for) as per slades email i guess we cant even work around the guy now. I think this has gone on too long, i've tried to email him myself, but i dont really expect an answer. Do we have anyone who knows the guy or who can get in touch to shake something loose? it appears that all that needs to be done is for him to ship the stuff and be done with it. I think with the ammount of cash wrapped up in this legal steps wouldnt be out of the question if it doesnt sort itself out, but god knows what the options are.

no

And beer

yup... its 6... i just double checked.

yeah the £ baffled me... couldnt find what it was meant to mean (i'm one of these it guys who was crap at school but good at his job)

So for the record... 5.2.6. the test instrumentation used for measuring the true vehicle speed shall be accurate to ± 0.5 per cent; 5.2.6.1. the surface of a test track when used shall be flat and dry, and provide sufficient adhesion; 5.2.6.2. if a roller dynamometer is used for the test, the diameter of the roller should be at least 0.4 m; 5.3. The speed indicated shall not be less than the true speed of the vehicle. At the test speeds specified in paragraph 5.2.5. above, there shall be the following relationship between the speed displayed (V1 ) and the true speed (V2). 0 £ (V1 - V2) £ 0.1 V2 + 4 km/h So even the measurement device has almost zero leeway for accuracy (less than 1/2 a percent) can anyone explain the formula at the end??

bugger... well that takes care of that then

“Those who seek power are not worthy of that power.”

i think if it were uncommon to be fined for that kind of offence you'd be right, but given the spike in cameras thats also planned, it would mean that being pinged for 61 would become quite common. As the point hit is what would really hurt (i dair say the fine for 1 over would be low) i think disputes could go up. Plus if someone gets one case dismissed based on my above suggestion, i think news would spread and it would start to snow ball. that said... i can also see them updating the ADR's to make +/- 0% the requirement and then defecting you when you dispute it.

i think it would be fairly easy to torpedo this by disputing fines through court again and again. Given that the ADR's give +/- 10% at 40kph you could argue that purely due to aus design standards that it is impossible to regulate your speed to the required standard. The only way to ensure this (at 60kph) would be to drive a marked 6kph slower than the posted limit, with the possibility (due to above +/- error) of actually going 12 km under the limit (48 kph) and as such possibly obstructing traffic. Win that argument a few times... job done.

Dave, fair call. From the sounds of it inviting someone over to help swap a clutch is like a really passive aggressive way of saying "i hate you", so i'm gonna get the Mrs to help

found... this (but its for a 34 gtt, but i'm thinking the basics are the same... kinda, just have to account for push vs pull) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268118-r34-gt-t-clutch-install-guide/ and this... (contains two links to the hints i mentioned above. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/208087-tips-for-clutch-change-rb25det/

yeah i was just having a look... found a few on alignment tools and hints and tips... nothing as complete and a walkthrough, but i might try to do that myself when i do this. i might start up another thread in an hour or so in the maintenance section with what i've found, what i've been told here and with a few q's i still have (like is there any way to top up the gearbox fluid before i remount the GB? when i did it last with a pump a while back it felt like i was wasting a heap of oil trying to pump it up a hose and into the inlet). from what you guys said as soon as you disconnect the tailshaft its all gonna pour out, so i cant refill it until its reconnected.

Sarge, sorry for the thread jacking. Cheers cassbo... guess this gives me an excuse to get the torque wrench i've been eyeing off.

righteo... found the seal kit for 103 at kudos... so thats a start... i'll try and do a little more digging myself now aswell, cant seem to find a clutch section in engine manual so i might go searching elswhere. that said, always happy to listen to any ones advice so feel free to keep it coming.

Tangles, not to worry tho mate, atleast there arent any defected and speeding cars driving around any more. More than a fair trade. /sarcasm

alright... i'm gonna give it a shot, if anyone reads a headline of "man crushed by gearbox in own driveway" you will know how it went. So for those who know, whats the process?? disconnect the drive shaft, drop the great box and go to work? Also, are their any consumables i should look at replacing while i'm at it (figure i'll do my gear box oil again whilst its easy to get to the filler hole). And last of all, i should probably machine the fly wheel too no? if so is pulling the fly wheel fairly straight forward? and anyone know of a place in sutherland shire who do good work? *wanders off to find service manual*

heh got an eboost one