Messiah

cant just type it up for us now??

you both have pm's

No dice... even the tires on old british cars leak oil, so EVERY nut on something like and old triumph can be considered self lubricating. Another note of safety... PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOUR DOING WHEN SCREWING THE LINE INTO THE BACK OF THE CALIPER!!!! i was educating the little brother in law about car maintenance while screwing it in... the lines are hard.. the calipers are soft... it went in at an angle and as some of you might have noticed if you troll the wtb thread... i'm not purchasing a new set of rear calipers.

Well i picked up a replacement drivers headlight for a steal a little while back. Now i the passenger light looks crap in comparison. So i need a good condition passenger headlight for a s1 33gts25t black surround with no cracks/clouding etc etc. Doesnt have to look like new, just has to be in good nick. PM me with pics and prices.

will you sell the rear brakes separately from the fronts?

i need two... got any left??

as it says, i need a set of rear calipers from a 33 gts25t. Shoot me what you have and we'll go from there.

What condition is the passenger headlight in? And this is a gtst right? If so I'll take the rear brakes.

hi guys, as the name suggests, are the 32gtr rear caliipers the same as the 33 gtst ones? I buggered up my rears and need to replace them, so i'm looking at options. Cheers Simon

anyone able to give a vague number of how much it costs to get a car wrapped? heh my 33 looks like a heap of shit right now and this could be cheaper than a total respray

did the passenger headlight survive? s1 s2?? etc etc

on this note, does anyone want to share a good place to source this stuff from. I just replaced my exhaust and found the last exhaust guy welded the cat on. So i buy a new cat and go ti fix it only to find that because he welded one join... i'm one set of nuts short (or so to speak). A trip to bunnings did the job, but i dont know if i want to rely on these long term.

good write up. A few additional things i'd add. First, i cannot stress enough how good the advice is about presoaking in wd40.. and give it PLENTY of time. I gave it a spray and cracked on after 2 mins or so and rounded a nut. I sprayed the other side liberally while i figured out what to do about the first, then came back 30+ mins later once i had sorted out the buggered up one. This one came off with barely any effort. As rounding is a risk... add two pairs of vice grips to the tool collection for this job, if you round these nuts they're almos tonf of the only things that will fix it. And i agree about the sidchrome spanners... i bought a set as recommended... and still rounded a nut... not sure if it was the spanners, or my impatience, but dont take the wd40ing or the spanners as a sure thing. Oh and advice from a mech mate of mine... he recommended against using thread sealant as the kit should seal fine without it and the sealant can contaminate the brake fluid.... Not sure how valid it is... i followed it but i'm open to others knowledge.

from that fscking ugly soarer forum... looks like its not all dead yet... Good news everyone david was home today and has given me a run down on what has been going on. 1. internet (adam Internet) still hasnt done anything about the non broadband F up in Kilburn, hence why he hasnt posted up info ect ect. 2. The box company that david has got to mnake uo the boxes F up the orders and made it 10mm too small and new ones had to be made. Then they ran of of metiral and had to wait for more stock. 3. He has been working out many different ways to get these sent out and most of the plans have failed, e.g the one where me and him were going to drive up and deliver them ourselves becuase of 2 members who didnt pay, then we had the one where everyone was going to get them feighted out to their doors steps, but e-go.com.au and northline stuffed up the qoutes and never got back to David. So far nothing has gone to plan much... And for the SAU members who demand their money back, david is fully aware about the situation and the floor mat business doesnt come back untill March, which the members will or have been notified. David is not here to steel or mess around with people's $$$ Things jsut dont go to plan as sometimes and Shiz happens. He will be posting updates on what is happening what will be happening what had happend how did it why did it happen where did it happen and why cause and what caused it to happen Now because that because the kits have been ship to the Gate's residence, David needs to know the following Who will be the person collecting the kits for Scott's place and who will they be going to. Please post up your names of who will be getting the kits from the pick up asap. THE REASON FOR THIS is the boxes have already been payed for and the kits at Davids house will be the ones going in boxes. The kits at Scotts house are ment to have boxes aswell as they have also been ordered but have been adressed to the workshop that made the kits... So who ever is getting a kit from Scotts house please post up your names asap. David will be on later to explain the FULL as this is the info that I have recived to day. Please don't go apes at me or anything as I am only trying to help out, thankyou soarer lovers

So you mean drivers side?

Does the version you guys have access to include v35's? i need a part number for a frontbar. Just in case it does.... 6u9000cpv35650429

yes you've just proven what everyone here already knows, that a ligthened wheel spins up and down faster. but you seem to be working hard to avoid the facts, or tell me i'm wrong outright. so to call my bluff, care to put it on the record that you completeley disagree and that changing the weight of a fly wheel has abosolutely no effect on the conservation of engine momentum (which to drive the point home, will require a change of gear to rectify if severe enough) and as such does nothing to assist a motor in high gear situtions when the gearing is not ideal for the situation... for example only.. cruising along in 4th/5th and encountering a moderatly steep incline. my experience is that your revs will die off in any case, but slower in the car with a heavier flywheel, possibly negating the need to shift down. I'm not contesting the benefits of a ligthened wheel, i know them just fine, only pointing out the downsides that can and do occur.

+1 to this... i buggered up her front bar while parking tonight. Bloody great big bit of metal plate (you know the kind they use to cover holes in the road) sat on the gitter and i gouged a hole out. So please guys... offer up your front bars... before she really goes to town on me.

yeah i can see where that could baffle you, but i can also see that its not wrong. it was given as an example of a situation where energy stored in a heavy rotating mass is of benefit. and as i also mentioned in that same post that it has its draw backs. if i'm wrong, and the effect mentioned does not occure in reality then i thank you for correcting me, if not.... The main point of my post was to counter big mikes sarcastic statement of "well why doesnt everyone just put the heafiest on they can in?" as though there was no point to the factory wheel. Myabe i should have just said the opposite in equally sarcastic tone. but in the end its all the same... yes lighter has advantages, as mentioned, it also has its drawbacks... as mentioned. they both do. let the OP underastand the physics and make up his own mind based on what he thinks is best is my approach

never said it helped you drive up a hill, i used it as an example if a time when using a heavy rotating mass to maintain revs is beneficial. I also balanced it out with the counter point of taking more effort to spin up. My main aim was to counter some of these knobs who keep claiming that there is no point to a standard weight flywheel. some of you keyboard warriors just hate people dissagreeing with you dont you.

actually a lighter flywheel will rob you when in high load situations such as climbing steep hills. Whilst your revs will fall no matter what with enough load placed on the engine, a heavier fw will slow this drop in rpm sometimes avoid the need to drop a gear. so to correct bigmike here... you engine will over come the inertia and speed it back up again except in cases where it doesnt have the grunt to, you know those situations flywheels are designed for. so normal fly wheel means slow dropping on revs while remaining in gear... lightened means having to drop a gear. Flip side is normal means greater rotating mass to spin when accellerating, lightened means lower mass so quicker on the flat or in low gears.

driving sports...

tell me... you never heard a "ticking" coming from your indicator stalk and/or smoke beforee??

anyone thought of using a cold cathode light for this... might not work as a brake light as it takes too long to turn on, but it would remove the need for ninja soldering and breadboard work.