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Messiah

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Everything posted by Messiah

  1. Try Peter Graham in kernell, he fixed up a 1x2-3 inch gash out of the mrs's front bar, that did need repainting. All up $600 ish
  2. Be original... Flock the exterior.
  3. i own a pair of oakley boots... much as expected... they do the job just fine. not sure what feed back i can offer other than "it fits around my foot, isnt bulky and doesnt fall off"
  4. Dave, i have to laugh a little at your post with the pics. General gist of the thread .. " Some bastards just broke into my house and stole my car... we found it tho... but the rear tyres and screwed, looks like they flogged the crap out of it..." Then this. Your Sig after your photo's just made me piss myself.
  5. That's f**ked, when you get it back take a look at whats busted, I'm sure we can find some donated parts to sort it out.
  6. dude.. northshore prestige for m35 stags... forget the others, trust me.
  7. step 3 should be merge right after the second roundabout. Left at the first roundabout takes you onto belbowrie close, right at the second takes you on to middle dural road. a nicer route is right at the first round about onto arcadia road, then left onto wilds road, then right on to old northern Sorry... i used to be a local.
  8. Best way to do this is to just dive in. Start simple. I swapped over an exhaust system the other month ( new cat and cat back). Minor job but it mare me feel more confident. Next I did the brake lines. Cool thing with that was it was a minor job that then taught me how to bleed the lines. During this I buggered up a caliper. 100 later had me two replacement calipers. Fitting these also taught me how to change brake pads. Next up was swapping all 4 shocks... And on and on it will go. If you like go buy a blown engine for cheap. Slowly striP it down and put it back together while fixing it up. Throw a BBQ with free beer and invite sau to come drink it and play with your engine. Make sure it's alot of beer.
  9. Price drop, $4500 for the stock car, 9k for the stock car, plus all the parts I've mentioned above.
  10. Forgot to add, i have a brand new set of "skyline" floor mats too (5 peices) and a Momo Millienium wheel fitted. Car can be registered and has no defects, i'm just not interested in doing it myself. If you want a blue slip as a condition of purchase PM me and we can sort something out.
  11. Cutting to the chase, I have an unregistered 93 R33 GTS25T for sale. Gunmetal Gray, 130k km on the clock. straight chassis no dented panels. Runs perfectly. Sunroof. going for $5500. I bought this car 8 years ago now, and then lost my license after about a year, let the rego lapse and havent had it on the road since. Recently i took some steps to fix a few things up, and get it re-registered but i've had a recent change of priorities (Shiney ring and a big party for the soon to be Mrs), and tidying this up is no longer of interest to me. This car is mostly stock but has the following bits thrown in. Split fire coils KYB Gas shocks with Tein springs. 3 inch turbo custom exhaust with custom dump. Apexi turbo timer. Hel Braided Brake lines New Battery New reconditioned head lamps Headlights modded so low beam stays on when hi-beam comes on. HID's in low and high beam (6000k for low beam 8000k for hi) White LED parkers Clear side indicator lamps. 17x8 advan model 5 copy rims. Condition: Mechanically - its just fine, no leaking oil, drives straight starts everytime. gear box a-ok with no missing gears or other nightmares Visually - No dented panels (i lie, small pin dent in the drivers rear C pillar from a stone that got spat out of a lawn mower). Paint work needs work tho. I left it under a car cover for an extended period now there is some bubbling in the paint on the bonet and some ugly ass marks on the roof. I'm curious to see what a cut and polish would do to the roof, but i think the bonet would need a good sand bakc and respray. Drivers side front wheel arch has a scrape in the paint from when i backed it out of my old garage when moving. Rear bar has a few vertical scratches from rubbing a brick pillar in said garage. Knumb skull who owned it before me used a chassis jack on the sills. There are also some additional parts that i have purchased recently and fitted but have zero k's on them they WILL NOT be sold with the car for the price above, call these optional extras. Work CR Kai 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 Bronze rims wrapped in brand new Falken 452's, 100% tread left. (Rims 2200 new, tyres 1200 new) call it $3k together. HKS Hipower Silent Exhaust, 3 inchs oh shineiness, $1200 new, i'll call it $1000 New Stock Clutch, still in the box. $300 Carbon Fibre boot floor ( i wanted something solid to attach things too that wouldnt slip around) $200 New Catco hiflow cat - $300 Braided clutch line - $100 $4600 all together. Some mods i'm pulling off, but will include them with the car if requested. Apexi PFC with hand controller - $1300 (also have the FC legit gear for plugging the the laptop... not sure if i'll part with it yet... ask me) Apexi EL Mechanical Boost guage (60mm) white face blue backlight $150 Turbo smart Eboost 1 40, great EBC at the end of the day $300 Adjustable upper rear control Arms ($100) Total $1850 Now take the lot and the car, and we can call it 10K flat, thats a pretty good saving, not only that but i'll throw in all the spares and stock parts i have with it for no extra charge. A simple stipulation - I wont separate any of these mods until AFTER the car is sold. the buyer of the car gets first choice in which mods (if not all) he chooses to take. And TBH i dont want to end up with am stocker in my driveway if selling is slow with no toys to sweeten the deal for someone. Once the car is sold i'll post up a FS thread with all the left overs. Next no low balls, the car by itself is cheap as chips and i've already cut a lot off the mods. Tyre Kickers - this is unregistered, so it wont be going on any length test drives, i'll figure something out with a legitimate buyer so they can get good peace of mind before parting with cash, but if you just want to see if its quick your wasting both our time. To someone looking for a good base for a track car, this is a great start, everything runs how it should and the only down side is rego and looks... neither matter for a track project. If your looking for a build up and parts mule this is also perfect as it isnt an accident victim and as mentioned, just needs to be less ugly. If your interested shoot me a PM or call me (Simon) on 0404003311 Pics attached.
  12. If your waiting for the value if your car to go up it won't happen. This isn't a slump and recoveries just around the corner, we just own cars with bugger all resale value. Unfortunately v35s don't have the magical attraction that the old school i6 turbos had, they're not sports cars as much as they're sporty luxury cruisers. So the import price sets the ceiling, and money is knocked off that for age, k's , non stock bits, a little more if the dealer thinks he can't sell it quick and then a chunk more to give him a profit margin. So don't sell it to a dealer if you want market value for it, but be prepared for a long wait for a private buyer to come along.
  13. After swapping out my headlights for a set of used replacements. I have my old set free and thought I might try and use them for a projector conversion. Not sure what design I'll go with in the end but whatever I come up with i'll pass on. Wonder what a triple projector setup would look like...
  14. Fcukinky, man how can you say that after the floor mats???0
  15. Sounds like you have some good kit there. Sell the hks bov tho, it will make you zero gains. Other than that your set. Keep tho boost at 12 or below and have it tuned and your set for a year or two.
  16. frontbar for a 06 v35 premium 350gt coupe?
  17. apparently my matts arrived at my place today (mrs just sms'd me) So looks like we're all good guys. And Dave, thanks for coming through in the end.
  18. Stfu exempt unt get in ze f**ken oven.
  19. so john, tell us more about the engine. How much have you needed to do to turn it into a viable track engine, just forged internals and a few odds and ends or does the factory vq30 scrub up ok block wise and just needs much the same love as say an rb26 or similiar. To put it shortly, do you have to spend a mint to make this engine really go? i already gather that ini your instance your going whole hog.
  20. g'day mate... there are some rubber mounts that are used to attach the top of the radiator to the front reo bar. do you have them??
  21. Too late, I'm already a little moist.
  22. school holidays??
  23. Eurasian... You have a number of problems here. The main one, and please don't take this as an insult/attack, is that you have nfi about the car your bought and it's configuration. This could end badly if not sorted out. Ok, first of all it appears to have a mixed bag of mods that don't appear to be well chosen or properly set up. Chiefly,your boost solenoid ( the greddy thing with wires). Is meant to be connected to the intake system but isn't . This means it won't control jack. Second what is connected to the boost controller isnt giving a reliable reading, so it's also possible that your boost is out of control with no way for you to see it. Next up, you have an aftermarket return flow front mount. And a atmospheric blow off valve. This would suggest the the previous owner had done some solid work to it including a tunable ecu. Factory blow off valves plumb back into the intake, this means that air meaured going into the engine at the air flow meter eventually makes it into the engine. An atmo bov doesnt and instead spits it back out of the engine. This is bad as the engine has added fuel to mix with the air but the bov sneezed the air out before it could be mixed with the fuel. So now you have a rich spot an unburnt fuel... And probably the backfire. All atmo bovs are good for is making a stupid noise and getting you defected. So the atmo bov and buggered up boost controller suggest the prior owner has left it in a right state for you. And pushing the car hard in its current state is il advised. My advice. Take it to a reputable work shop. Have them return the bov to stock and fix the boost controller boost controller and gauge. Get them to check the ecu and tune while there. If it's stock, get them to lower the boost to 8 psi to stop the ecu from panicing. If not stock, get it dynod and the tune checked for safety. If you don't do this your really risk arseing up your car. Get to know what state the car is in now and what it's safe to ask of it, the go from there.
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