GTRman1992

There is no way he nailed you both. The gun has one readout on it, and I doubt he had the accuracy or time to point and nail one of you, record the speed and point and nail the other.

It would take a large device to cool the block, there is a lot of thermal energy there. You would also be cooling it at points, not evenly may not be so good. As far as a refigerated intake goes, I don't think the devices could produce enough cooling for the volumn of air passing. Cooling a tank of fluid for a sprayer would work well. My thoughts anyway.

head lights are the hardest to stop the reflection off. They are designed to send a beam straight out.

Was the boost increased to get those dyno figures when you swapped ECU's ? Or was it purely better tuning that upped the performance ?

Let me rephrase. Fuses are put inline of electrical systems to protect them. Therefore if a fuse blows it is doing so to protect the equipment down line. So if you pull a fuse it is the same as it blowing. So my point is, you will not damage your car by pulling fuses. Hope that is clearer.

I've used these "Peltier effect" devices before, but in a different capacity. We supplied electricity to generate cooling. These are the devices you find in those car fidges. Once side cools the other heats. I've been thinking of using one to cool the water in a water injection system. Not sure about generating power from engine block heat though ?

Backing you up 4DoorGTR !!! Sigs, save the innocent story for your mum.

Would probably also work, but not as efficient as water spray.

Pulling fuses won't ever hurt a car. They are there to blow and protect equipment.

Also if you slam on your brake the second you see the radar trap you can wash off a few km/h before they get a lock on you. Seemed to have worked at least once when a cop pulled over a mate following me and complained to him he couldn't get a lock on my car.

They are a little stiff for road use, but its ok. Not extreame.

R32 GTR Owners Manual: Kerb Weight 1539Kg. Hope that helps.

I've been using Mike Vine Turbo's at Capalaba for about 10 years. First on my Starion now on my R32 GTR. His knowledge and no nonesense approach is second to none. It have been running approx. 450Hp for two years now faultlessly. He has a race background so he understands reliability.

How much a set ?

I've had Kings, 20% stiffer and lowered 1inch for nearly 3 years now and no problem.

I agree with Warpspeed, I think the water would flash into steam due to the heat. Hydrolic lock is the big fear, thats why you have a safety solonoid valve in the system that stops the engine drawing water down the tube when not in boost cycle. Also stops dribbling etc. I'm going down the path of an individual fogging nozzle in each runner with a computer controlled pump (inputs: RPM, Boost, Water Pressure).

It does cool the charge a bit, but you have to spray it into at least the runners to each cylinder to get even distribution (discussed above). As skylinegeoff saif the other effect (as I understand) is that it increases the density of the charge and therefore supresses the pre-ignition (detonation). This allows you to run more boost and more agressive timing.

On the R32 you can flick the ignition switch to off then on quickly while rolling forward. The warning light on the dash will come on and you will be RWD until next time you stop.

There is a really good article in ZOOM number 56 on the ATTESSA system. The R32's update at 4 times a second, R33's 100 times a second and the V-Specs at 500 times a second. They reckon this is only for passenger perception and has no effect on the handling. That late coming in of the system is how it is designed. I'm building a 4WD controller that modifies the accelerometer signal similar to others. With mine you will be able to download a curve you draw yourself and it will have data logging / real time display output to a laptop. I'm going to have it have about 4 different curves to select as you drive and 6 different settings for each curve. Also it will have two different pre-setups so, say for a track that has a few hairpins then a sweeper you could have optimised two curves and quick-select between them as you drive. Anyway, I was building it for myself, but if anyone is interested in the results or more details let me know. The Trick: The trick to disengage the 4WD system (works on 32, not sure 33, 34) is to be rolling forward and flick the ignition switch off and on quickly, the warning light on the dash will come on and it will be RWD until you become stationary again.

You guys have almost talked me around. I'm starting to want an intercooler water sprayer ! The next debate will definately be the control system. If we come up with something that sounds good, I'll build a prototype.

I haven't heard of them, but the pay for what you get it true. My first set of tyres were NangKang and they were shocking, the rubber went off easy and squirmed on the tread and they were destroyed after around 8000km because the tread blocks had ripped out. Also on the limit they were scary.

I think your right, there is a more passive anti-lag system (as seen in Initial D lol). I cannot remember how it worked. Although BIGBLOCK was right about killing cats, anything that blows flames is bad karma on a street car.

Hay Warpspeed. Interesting ideas. I don't think you could catch the water dripping off the intercooler as you have to remember you are hammering along while spraying so it will blow through the intercooler. Although while stationary it might be worth a thought. Cooling the core waiting to take off. I don't think the ambient air will ever be hotter than the air blowing through the intercooler, even on a hot day. When a turbo is pumping the air can easily get over 100deg I believe. I've had a look into using standard injectors for the W/M system but came up with the same problem with corrosion. Thats why I'm building a system using spray jets and regulating the pump speed to ensure the ideal mix. If you do come accross some water happy injectors I'd love to know as that is HEAPS easier.

Must have got it wrong, unless the fluid rule only applies to drag racing ??? Your Ralliart kit is as you said for cars not getting enough air flow through the intercooler. This agrees with what I have been saying. It is not needed for track cars getting big air flow through the front mount. I am not arguing with this point. See the Auto Speed online magazine for a circuit. Else you can have a button on the dash ??

I think they open a valve and let air into the exhaust manifold before turbo, then overfuel the car to have unburnt fuel in exhaust. Oxygen + fuel + heat into turbine = jet engine anti lag. But I think a rebuild after every race was required ????