EXEMPT

Very nice bro thanks for your wise words also! I can see this happening in the months to come aha

Get a GFB Atmos with the correct adapter and reset your ECU and all your problems will wash away

Noo shit. Well that should be a fairly easy diagnosis then =) I'll be sure to check it out when I'm home in a coupla hours. If I can't make my own mind up I'll snap a pic and post it up lol. Cheers dude.

Chris Rogers...PM him...that's his username as well.

PM Sent

Cool. I'll have my mechanic confirm I've got an rb20 gearbox next Friday. Is there anything that is obviously different on the outside of the two boxes that will indicate 20 or 25 box? I'm only asking because the car runs 230rwkw on 20 psi and has done for a long long timeand hasn't complained at all. Only when I le the clutch out before I complete the shift Is it torque or power from the engine that wears a gearbox?

I might have to get someone to look at my gearbox coz im pushing a fair bit more than that atm. Gearbox feels solid as all hell but I mean Murphys Law will come into play as soon as the rb25 goes in, if it does lol.

Ahhhhh I see. I had no idea they're so cheap!!! I might have to do this hey. I think it'll all be in the compressor housing dude or yeah if its more than that just research the best combination for the 25. If I've got a lightened fly and HD clutch, will an rb20 gearbox cope with an rb25?

So his rebuilt, forged engine is going for $1700 and his rebuilt gearbox is going for $1500 and the only other things i'll need are a computer and loom. Not too shabby. Just depends whether its worth it or not. If I can get my 32 to 300rwkw for roughly the same I won't bother aha. You got a conversion in yours?

Hey brutha, saw your 32 in xspeed the other day when mine was on the dyno - love your plates and I'm glad you own a gun metal like me (although mine's a GTST). They will absolutely rape you on tuning for anything other than Power FC dude. I asked about Haltech and HKS F Con Pro and well, lets just say Hanson said "if you don't use power FC you will be up for thousands. A full tune with a PFC is about $750 at X speed providing there aren't major issues to overcome. Get a PFC dude - at least they still make em for the gtr. I have to suss mine secondhand...

I've been thinking about the best way to go for an RB25 upgrade for my R32. I don't want to be ripped off or dissappointed so I'm just wondering... What's the best way to go with an RB25 upgrade and what should I be paying for one? An estimate price for a stuffed engine that needs rebuilding would be great and maybe a price for a low km engine that can go straight i would be awesome. James

I'll let his tires down and chain him to the bonnet before pushing off a cliff. One less shitty te on the road and one less shitty criminal in the hood. Eyes will be peeled. Btw I saw you rollin down High Road the other day I think bro. Lovin it!

Yeah FFS everyone knows that a 1J or 2J has the advantage when doing a stock to stock comparison to RB26. But you're never going to be getting these circumstances - someone will always have a mod that will put the other one in front, whether it be the Nissan or the Toyota. If your so bothered about copping shit from a grease monkey (possibly worst job in history, rip him for being a mechanic and tell him your outta the shit kicking life as soon as you find something better. If your still concerned about him outdoing you with his engine. Sell your car and buy a 2J. Then you can argue about who has the better 2J. Chances are he will rip you for admitting RBs aren't as good and you will be in the same place as you started from. Honestly why on earth would you give a shit about some guy and his 2J? You buy the car you like for what you like. If you like the 1j or 2j buy one. If you like the RB26, buy an RB26. And if your like me...you buy the RB20 and tune the shit out of it. I tell you, I wouldn't swap my 32 for a 1J or 2J - know why? Because I f**king love the RB20. Case closed.

Yeah man, gonna just have my mechanic suss it on Friday. I'll come back with the cause on Monday.

Yeah farout...its a nice fantasy. Great for a 4WD application. 6.5 Chev eat ya heart out!

ahhh damn. got excited. still pretty impressive hey. I have trouble enough fitting my IC piping under my bonnet let alone an extra 15-20cm. If you removed all ancillary components you would be able to fit it with some bonnet mods for sure. R33 engine bay would be the biggest of 32, 33 and 34 ay? I reckon you could do with amazing results. A soarer would be an ideal platform I reckon. Wheely bar for sure haha!

Thats the RB48DET in action. Modified 4.8 litre with turbo setup. Patrol trucks running 12 second quarters up hill. That is the ultimate RB. Just pop that in a GTR - invincible.

Battery is about 6 moths old, 600 CCA. Will check terminals, earth points and rub down etc. Cheers buddy

Hey bro, Check this thread...http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/354799-starting-to-think-about-compliance/ I was the OP, disregard the Plan-FAILURE, mods being nazi faggots. FMIC and exhaust shouldn't be a prob. As the above thread details, the focus seems to be more on everything being bolted down and nothing rattles/moves. Probably something I will be doing with the FMIC will be just putting mesh in the front bar as I've heard some people have been knocked back for an exposed FMIC. Aftermarket exhaust is fine as long as its within the sound threshold. The more original it looks, the easier it will be to pass it seems. You will definitely need front and rear bars as well as the glass but I'm sure you know that haha. James

BUMP FFS!

CHECK... FMIC Piping - specifically around the silicon joins Ignitor O2 Sensor Manifolds for snapped studs/warp creating air leaks Most likely the O2 sensor if not FMIC.

What makes you think it's the wrong throw out? Mine has an Exedy HD clutch and lightened flywheel and if you're worried about the noise that you get when the clutch is out - it's NORMAL. If you haven't put it in the car yet then I think the GQ patrol bearing will work...otherwise just go OEM or try a wrecker. Call nissan and quote your VIN and they'll give you the part number for it. If it's not going into the same car it came out of (as in make and model), just call Nissan and they should be able to locate the right part.

BUMP

It's really one after the other atm isn't it. Terrible.